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No entiendo esto. El módulo HEI de gran capacidad generalmente tiene cuatro conexiones de "cuchilla" (más la conexión a tierra "oculta" al distribuidor a través de uno de los tornillos de sujeción del módulo).
Dos para la bobina captadora, etiquetadas como W y G en el módulo, conectadas a los cables blanco y verde de la bobina captadora.
Módulo B+ que también es bobina de encendido B+ o "BATtery".
Módulo C- que también es bobina de encendido C-, o el terminal TACH en el costado de la tapa. (Obtiene una chispa de la bobina cuando el módulo abre el circuito C).
A su diagrama le faltan los cables + y - a la bobina de encendido. En su diagrama, el C- del "Nuevo módulo de control del distribuidor HEI" está conectado al PCM. No creo que esto sea correcto. Debe conectarse al terminal C- (TACH) de la bobina. Debería haber otro empalme en el circuito B+, yendo a la bobina de encendido B+ (BAT). Ahora el módulo "nuevo HEI" controla la bobina.
El objetivo de ejecutar dos módulos es que el sistema OEM controlado por computadora pueda "disparar en seco"; funciona normalmente pero no está conectado a una bobina de encendido. Es solo para el viaje, por lo que la computadora piensa que es funcional. Mientras que el módulo controlado por computadora se masturba, el módulo HEI de 4 pines en realidad controla la bobina, de modo que el avance centrífugo y de vacío afecta el tiempo de chispa en lugar de la computadora, lo cual es demasiado estúpido para saber lo que realmente está pasando.
Esto es realmente inteligente. Nunca lo habría pensado de forma independiente; aunque lo leí en otro foro. La única parte cuestionable es si la bobina captadora puede proporcionar suficiente energía para activar dos cargas en lugar de solo una; y aparentemente puede, pero apuesto a que a bajas revoluciones de arranque (clima frío, aceite espeso, bajo voltaje de la batería) todas las apuestas están descartadas.[/CITA
]hello I have the same problem
i removed an electronic distributor and installed an HEI distributor these are my steps
1 cut the pink or red wire and put it in the battery.
2 place the tachometer wire in tach.
the question is if I am missing one more step
1. I don't speak Spanish. Or Portugese. Or whatever.
2. What vehicle are you working on? What engine?
3. You removed a computer-controlled HEI and installed a 4-pin module HEI??? Yes, you need battery power to the distributor-cap BATT terminal, and if the car has a tach, it'd be connected to the distributor-cap TACH terminal. But you've missed the entire section about using a 7-terminal HEI module mounted in parallel so the onboard computer thinks it's still functional.
hello my car is a 1991 camaro, with a 305 engine remove the distributor and put a HEI distributor I just wanted to know how is the correct way to connect
(I also removed the TBI fuel injection system and replaced it with a carburetor)
With no onboard computer connected, all you need with the coil-in-cap 4-pin module HEI is the power wire and the tach wire.
Time the engine as needed; generally about 15 degrees initial, total timing of 35 at 3000-3200 rpm, plus 10--15 degrees of vacuum advance connected to either ported or manifold vacuum, whichever works better.
With no onboard computer connected, all you need with the coil-in-cap 4-pin module HEI is the power wire and the tach wire.
Time the engine as needed; generally about 15 degrees initial, total timing of 35 at 3000-3200 rpm, plus 10--15 degrees of vacuum advance connected to either ported or manifold vacuum, whichever works better.
hello... I think I misunderstood, my engine is a 305 v8 in TBI, I replaced the 4-pin distributor that is synchronized by the computer with a NEW 3-pin mechanical vacuum HEI distributor, my question is: What would be the correct way to connect the HEI distributor?
The original TBI HEI distributor has a module with eight pins. Two for the pickup coil inside the distributor, plus a group of four and a second group of two on the outside of the distributor. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...n+module&pos=0
The much-older style, non-computer-controlled HEI has a four-pin module. Two for the pickup coil, one for battery power, and one to ground the ignition coil primary windings The battery and coil ground terminals are connected to the terminals on the distributor cap with a 3-wire harness that also includes a ground wire leading to the coil. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...n+module&pos=1
I have heard of, but never seen a 3-pin HEI module, which--I guess--was used on some European vehicles.
So, again, if you have a 4-pin module HEI, the distributor cap has a BAT terminal that needs system voltage, and if the vehicle has a tachometer, it's connected to the TACH terminal, otherwise there's nothing connected to that spot.
Hey so bought a hei distrubutor with a msd 6al and I have a stock tbi is there and after I installed everything I realized my injector weren’t getting sending fuel because they weren’t getting a signal is there anything I can do to fix this so that it can send fuel down?
Hey so bought a hei distrubutor with a msd 6al and I have a stock tbi is there and after I installed everything I realized my injector weren’t getting sending fuel because they weren’t getting a signal is there anything I can do to fix this so that it can send fuel down?
Best solution: Remove the non-computer-controlled, 4-pin module HEI, reinstall a (properly-functioning) TBI-style HEI distributor with 8-pin module. Problem solved. You could even keep the 6AL if you want--I ran a 6T on mine for about a year until the MSD failed. MSD sells a wire-harness adapter that makes the 6 a plug-and-play deal.
Fookin' around with the big-cap HEI is a TOTAL waste of your time, money, effort, and enthusiasm.
Well i have discovered a way to use a performance ignition with my stock TBI. and what a diffrence it made! if anyone is intersted in how i accomplished this let me know i can send my wiring digram of how i trick the PCM into thinking there is a stock distributor there. my engine revs so much quicker, and because of the advance curve feels like it has more power at low rpms.
I would love to know how you did it because I have been attempting the same exact ting in my 1993 1500. I have spent a good deal of time on it and no luck. If you would be so kind brother as to help me out it truly would be appreciated.
What the hell is with all the idiots asking for a diagram that's posted in this thread? READ you morons!
STILL an exceptionally stupid idea.
GD
Originally Posted by Eddie G
I would love to know how you did it because I have been attempting the same exact ting in my 1993 1500. I have spent a good deal of time on it and no luck. If you would be so kind brother as to help me out it truly would be appreciated.
You're about the third person who's asking for something that's already posted in this thread.
For the record, I think it's as silly as it gets. Nevertheless, it's posted right in this thread.
I bet these people graduated from high school. America spends more money per-pupil than any other country on Earth, and this is the result. The public school system needs major reform.
These folks will end-up voting for political figures, and deciding the fate of their country.
No fookin' wonder we're in such trouble; and no likely solution on the horizon.
Hey can you email me the diagram!!! LOL jkjk screw that noise.
anyways
I may have a solution for this. I dont know yet.
I have a 91 305 TBI.
For cosmetic reasons, i want to run the HEI so i can utilize my crossfire cap and my plugwires that are cut to length (that currently sit on my carb'd engine). Its is sooooo much cleaner looking. If i get this going, i'll swap out my carbed engine for this TBI engine.
I was browsing summits distributors. I noticed the Large Cap HEI (Cardone #841865) for a 1986 Fullsize truck 305 has the same 4 pin plug and wire colors as my small cap HEI. (There is no vac advance inside this 841865 dist.)
So, i bought one, and dropped it in. Getting ready to see if it will respond and advance the timing accordingly.
Appears to be an ordinary 7-pin module replacement distributor, used from '80 to '86 on Chevy V-8. I bet there's a million of 'em in the Treasure Yards. Retains the computer-controlled "electronic" spark advance, which is what the original poster of this thread--and several other posters--want to defeat. So this is not a solution to their perceived "need".
Surprised that it's got a black-plastic rotor. GM started the HEI distributors with black plastic rotors, then dropped them for "improved" white-plastic rotors with greater dielectric strength. The black-plastic rotors were known for "Punch-Through", where the spark would ground right through the plastic to the distributor mainshaft.
It's "new", which almost certainly means it's sourced from the Communist Chinese. Really common for bottom-feeder distributors to have no lube for the upper bushing. There may be a grease reservoir...but there's no holes drilled through the casting so the lube can't get to the bushing. Hopefully, your distributor has both a full lube reservoir, AND the holes in the casting.
Retains the computer-controlled "electronic" spark advance, which is what the original poster of this thread--and several other posters--want to defeat. So this is not a solution to their perceived "need".
Ya hard to make heads or tails of what everybody wants from all these posts. Just based on the diagram, this should eliminate the need for doing any of that.
At anyrate, Using the Large Cap HEI non vac (pre 87') distributors in the post 87' TBI systems appears to work. I cant upload the vid. But I set the dist at zero. Fired everything up and she was running at about 8deg advanced. So its pulling timing and floats around as needed. I'll know more when i get the engine off the stand and can run it to full warm up.
Well i have discovered a way to use a performance ignition with my stock TBI. and what a diffrence it made! if anyone is intersted in how i accomplished this let me know i can send my wiring digram of how i trick the PCM into thinking there is a stock distributor there. my engine revs so much quicker, and because of the advance curve feels like it has more power at low rpms.
Originally Posted by Fast355
Not suprising at all, but it can be done cheaper by investing in a Prom Burner.
I have seen alot of TBI conversions run by the tach signal.
PS- I am not knocking your work at all, just giving an alternative for everyone else.
My Oldsmobile 307 TBI conversion runs on a CCC Q-Jet large cap HEI.
READ THE ENTIRE THREAD BEFORE POSTING. IT'S BEEN DISPLAYED IN POST #30 FOR THREE AND A HALF YEARS. It was copied into Post 47 about two and a half years ago.
It's still a really-stupid way to "tune" the ignition advance.
READ THE ENTIRE THREAD BEFORE POSTING. IT'S BEEN DISPLAYED IN POST #30 FOR THREE AND A HALF YEARS. It was copied into Post 47 about two and a half years ago.
It's still a really-stupid way to "tune" the ignition advance.
I don't know if it's relevant or not, but I have a lot of issues with this forum not displaying pictures. Sometimes I have to disconnect and reconnect to my ISP or VPN or even switch browsers or devices completely to get it working again. There have been instances where I've been reading a thread and people are commenting about "something" and it takes me a minute to realize the comments are directed towards a photo that isn't displaying for me.
Not saying that is what is happening here, but since a lot of people these days might be looking at this site on a phone or tablet (another format where I've noticed missing images) it might not actually be laziness at work here.
It's still a really-stupid way to "tune" the ignition advance.[/QUOTE]
Hear me out lol, so I'm wanting to delete the egr system, cat, remove the smog pump, and install headers. I've read that if you do this, it will screw up the timing at cruise speeds if you still use the factory computer controlled Distributor. I plan to do a Holley or ACES efi system. Used a Holley super sniper in my last car with good results. It was a 91 someone had already converted to carb before me. So, the ACES system is $800. Then another $150 for a computer controlled dizzy, and another $400+ for the module to controll it. My thoughts were connect the mechanical advanced dizzy I have laying around for now, then later on down the road spend the $600 later for the computer controlled one. I'd get it all right now, like I did the first time, but my wife would probably kill me if I drop 2k right before Christmas 😂 Anyways, thoughts?
P.s. Do you know where schematic for this would be? 😂😂😂😂😂 I had to.
WHY? EGR is not hurting performance, and it does a lovely job of suppressing part-throttle detonation.
Originally Posted by Ivelostcontact
cat,
WHY? A high-flow, monolithic catalyst is not hurting performance. Better to replace the cat with a modern unit, than to delete it.
Originally Posted by Ivelostcontact
remove the smog pump,
WHY? The AIR pump is not hurting performance, and headers are available with AIR fittings.
Aside from being illegal, deleting the above is a waste of time, effort, and enthusiasm.
Originally Posted by Ivelostcontact
I plan to do a Holley or ACES efi system. Used a Holley super sniper in my last car with good results. It was a 91 someone had already converted to carb before me. So, the ACES system is $800. Then another $150 for a computer controlled dizzy, and another $400+ for the module to controll it... ...Anyways, thoughts?
Aftermarket fuel injection? You have more money and patience than I do.
Go to a Treasure Yard, get the OEM computer-control pieces--ECM, throttle body, distributor, wiring harness, whatever else has been vandalized, and replace it. Around here, that'd be about $200. Return the engine back to "stock" + headers and high-flow catalyst. Make sure the O2 sensor is fresh 'n' functional. Repair everything that's deteriorated with time and mileage--if the fuel pump is weak, replace it. If the cam has worn lobes, or there's a cylinder with bad valves, etc., get all that taken care of.
I'd swap to a 350-or-larger engine before I paid for bottom-feeder aftermarket injection. Going from a properly-functioning 305 to a properly-functioning 350 is going to be a major upgrade in torque, along with a modest upgrade in horsepower.
Invest in computer-tuning devices for the OEM computer, and learn to use them--or--find someone who can help with that.
Because the aftermarket efi systems do a wonderful job at managing the air to fuel ratio on the fly. When it's summer and 90 out, or winter and 18. Doesn't matter what elevation I drive to, it's covered. It will do it's thing, and I'll never have to tune it again. Even as I add aftermarket parts, it will simply retune itself to whatever air fuel ratio I desire. Wayyyy better than the old school stuff. Make a nice timing curve, set it to change the afr to 14+ under part throttle cruising, and bump up the timing then too for better interstate MPG. My last system I used the timing table for a c5 Corvette and the 350 loved it, got great mpg too. This is my 4th 3rdgen. I'll never upgrade tpi or TBI again. As far as the emissions stuff goes, with a properly tuned vehicle, it's not necessary. It's not the 80s any more. Modern computer systems can get the exact air fuel ratio and burn way cleaner. Just extra weight and clutter at this point. All that's a matter of opinion I'm sure though. And I've seen enough dynk graphs proving cats and certain style muffles do indeed rob you of topend horsepower, but, given the 180hp of the 305 or whatever it is it won't be nearly as noticeable. My thoughts are just go ahead and buy everything I can bolt onto a 350 for the 305, then later down the road just toss the 305 in favor of something with a Forged bottom end 350+cu. Probably, headers, intake, cam, full exhaust, possible another under the hood roots blower like my 84 had. But, while this 305 runs perfect, I'll just leave it in there for now.
Well i have discovered a way to use a performance ignition with my stock TBI. and what a diffrence it made! if anyone is intersted in how i accomplished this let me know i can send my wiring digram of how i trick the PCM into thinking there is a stock distributor there. my engine revs so much quicker, and because of the advance curve feels like it has more power at low rpms.
I would truly appreciate a copy of your wiring diagram, I am doing the same change over right now. Thank you.
I would truly appreciate a copy of your wiring diagram, I am doing the same change over right now. Thank you.
Turn off your ad-blocker.
Originally Posted by Schurkey
READ THE ENTIRE THREAD BEFORE POSTING. IT'S BEEN DISPLAYED IN POST #30 FOR THREE AND A HALF YEARS. It was copied into Post 47 about two and a half years ago.
It's still a really-stupid way to "tune" the ignition advance.
Well i have discovered a way to use a performance ignition with my stock TBI. and what a diffrence it made! if anyone is intersted in how i accomplished this let me know i can send my wiring digram of how i trick the PCM into thinking there is a stock distributor there. my engine revs so much quicker, and because of the advance curve feels like it has more power at low rpms.
02-17-2022, 02:25 AM
