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Weird stuff when starting my car

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Old 12-04-2001, 11:13 AM
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Weird stuff when starting my car

Started about a week ago after messing with the computer wires. Anyhow. Some times when I start my car I hear a click, click, click and then starts. Like the ditributor is way out of sequence. Twice it has made the noise and didn't start. after it didn't start, ALL power is lost. NO lights, no beeb from the key with door open. No radio. No nothing. Well after waiting a minute and then poping the hood I look at the battery, Everything seems fine and I notice the hood light is on. Well then I turn the car on and it starts.


What is the deal. I know I connected all the wire back where they were... and I didn't really disconnect them. Just removed the connector. The same time that I messed with computer wires I plugged in a new light bulb under the hood. It didn't have a light under the hood since I've had the car.

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92 Camaro 305 TBI Automatic
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=6100
Old 12-04-2001, 04:51 PM
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???
Old 12-04-2001, 05:09 PM
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Sounds like a bad fusable link at the starter. Jack the car up and check the wire at the starter with a test light.

I had a similar problem, so I cut the fusable links out and replaced them with weather resistant fuse holders. Makes it much easier to troubleshoot a blown link.

Thomas,

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1992 RS Camaro - Red
305-TBI/5 Speed Manual- 3.08 geared rear
1.6 Roller Rockers / Open Air K&N Filter / TBI Spacer / ADS Super Chip & custom burned Off-Road Only chip /
Headers - 3" Cat'Back - Flow Master - Adjustable Coni shocks & struts / 16" factory wheels
Old 12-04-2001, 09:56 PM
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i had the exact same problem as you but when i was moving down the highway at night and one going down a steep hill with a light at the bottom not to fun with no power breaks or stearing .
what i did to fix it was to redo all the connectors around the starter and to makes sure the little ground wire, (black) was not touching the otheres or any possibility to touch them and i redid my timing and every thing else and took off some of the crud around the starter area on the power wires, and cleaned inside and out the positive area aroundt the battery.
so far so good, all i know is i would be going down the street and all power fails and comes right back either by itself in like 40 secs or disconect the battary.
good luck that one pissed me off pretty bad
Old 12-06-2001, 10:51 AM
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This happens every time I start my car... I checked the Ground connections to the battery... Cleaned em up... made sure nothing was touching... While it was unplugged i checked where I was messing around before.. disconnected the connections... made sure everything was fine and dandy... plugged em back in securely... connected the battery, started the car.. SAME THING

As soon as I turn the key and it makes a click click click.. and then turns over... resets my stereo ... so im getting total power loss. I have a capasitor... so If i was getting power loss in that short of time.. It will have to drain my capasitor too... Any other ideas.?

Ill try the ?Fusable link? at the starter tonight...

thanks

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https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=6100

[This message has been edited by 92Camaro305TBI (edited December 06, 2001).]
Old 12-06-2001, 11:17 AM
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click, click, click, it is the bendix at the starter motor trying to engage. Your starter, more specificly the starter solenoid, is going bad. Since it is attached to the starter you need to remove the whole thing and go get it bench tested. If it passes make them bench test it till it fails since it sounds like the problem is intermitent right now. Eventually the solenoid will fail completely and you cannot start the car at all.

Take your battery out first and get it tested to be safe, since a weak battery will not give enough voltage for the starter to kick over also.
Old 12-06-2001, 11:36 AM
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If your stereo is resetting (I bet your dome light goes off, too), you have a total loss of power from a connection problem. I suspect the battery terminals themselves, bad cables, bad cable connections. IMO, remove all cables from the battery and from wherever they lead to. Inspect them for cracks, heat damage, corrosion damage, etc, replacing/cleaning as necessary. Use a wire brush to remove deposits fom battery posts and post receivers in the cables themselves. Any ground connection must be free of rust/paint/grease and solid connections.
Old 12-06-2001, 03:23 PM
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I just had the started replaced about 2 months ago... However... My voltage does tend to drop whenever i'm driving at night... It drops to like 8.... But it always goes back up... ill see If I can replace the battery first and then look closer at the starter./... Thanks
Old 12-06-2001, 04:08 PM
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Sounds like a shorted wire going between the battery and the alternator of it's your voltage regulator (built into the alternator). The alt is easy to replace but it does set you back a good $100. I was getting tired of my car stumbling at idle so I had to front the money. I was stumbling with only 14 to 12 volts drops, going to 8 would have been terrible.
Old 12-06-2001, 09:03 PM
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I HATE GIVING BAD ADVISE!

If you had said your voltmeter was low I would have advised you of this. Your alternator is going bad and not charging the battery properly, which explains the clicking starter also, not enough battery voltage to engage the solenoid.

You can narrow this down by jumping the car. If it fires right up then your battery is weak.

Yes check your battery and remove the alternator and have it tested also, much easier to take out than the starter. If your alternator checks out ok there are some other reasons.

You may have too many gadgets (stereo, amps, alarm, under drive pulley on alternator, etc.) and not enough amps. The stock Alternator is crap you can upgrade to a 100 amp unit it bolts right in place of the stock 70 amp one. Something to seriously consider if your stock alternator checks out ok. Keep in mind that while driving the alternator is charging the battery, too many gizmos running means not enought amps left to charge the battery.

Try shutting all your accessories off with your old alternator in the car if you can get it running. what does the voltmeter read? Begin turing accessories on in this order (headlights, hazard signals, A/C, rear defroster, Stereo,) and watch your voltmeter.

Remember your ecm is drawing power, as well as the; fuel pump, cooling fan, and sensors, all this adds up so a good strong Alternator is important especially with a sound system. The oem unit cannot keep up.

I have even seen 3rd gens with serious sound systems equipped with 2 alternators!! I'm talking competition level systems.

Good luck
Old 12-09-2001, 09:00 PM
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Ok, Checked all connections..including grounds..

Took it up to the auto parts store and got it test..the starter, Alternator and the battery.. Everything was good,,, I'mat a loss... I'm going to disconnect my amp and then see how that goes...as for the clicking noise... I still have no idea....Thanks for any input...

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https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=6100
Old 12-10-2001, 08:45 AM
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As I stated in my last reply Just beacuse your alternator is good does not mean it has enough capacity (amps) to run all your gadgets especially with a high output stereo.
Old 12-11-2001, 12:39 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by FRMULA:
As I stated in my last reply Just beacuse your alternator is good does not mean it has enough capacity (amps) to run all your gadgets especially with a high output stereo.</font>
Disconneted amp, Started it three times last night and no problems,,,, Started it twice today and seems to be ok... Still take 3 seconds to start though...
?

Ill keep you updated.. Thanks.

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https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=6100
Old 12-13-2001, 11:01 AM
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Turns out.. the bolt going to the positive battery had corrosion, Seems like it may be leaking battery acid oon the bolt.. No sure.. but i replaced the positive bolt and it starts up every time now... So far anyway....
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