Since you cant find them on the market, is any tbi or carb runner interested in having a fiberglass scoop like this for his set up? I had to build the molding and still have it. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_22_full.jpg

The hose is 4" ID

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_20_full.jpg

that pretty cool

Thanks, its the best setup I had till now, between flat base open element, spectre carb hat with traditional tube+cone filter, cut spectre with cone fiter right on top and of course all kindes of upgrades on stock one.

Pic with air temp sensor and breather

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_21_full.jpg

flat base, 3"K&N and injector wiew

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...586_3_full.jpg

thats hot, I'll been tryin to build something like that for a while. I got the TPI intake and will be trying to get it to mate to the TBI in the near future. That would work if I could get that TB top.

How much you want for a setup like that, I already have the flat base 14 x 3 open elemnt setup?

iggy1991, the 9" x 3" k&n filter, box, cover and flat base are from ramairbox.com, I just made the scoop, and I can guarantee you that it allows lots of more air in then the tpi set up. Of course the tpi set up looks better, but does not fit in firebirds. I think the easyest and cheapest for you (other then open element) is to use the tpi filter set op and go straight into a bonnet.

krisb410, I was thinking of building the entire set up but not shure yet if I will have time and possebylity (if I manage to do it, it will be for 10"x3" filter, because 14" you wont see the engine anymore). I have the mold for the scoop and make the scoop and if you do the "bodywork" it should be around 100$ shipped. The filter box setup is from ramairbox.com and the 10"x4" silicon turbo coupler hose from ebay.

Not quit sure if I understand correctly.

What "bodywork" is needed to be done?

So you want $100 to make me a scoop and send it to me?

First of all dont think Im trying to sell you a scoop. I just couldent find a air intake that was perfect for my trans-am. 100$ is what I estimate material an shipping will cost. Im now on vacation and cant tell for sure, I calculated 40$ shipping.

bodywork, I intend the inside is smoot as the mold and the outside is raw, if you whant it smooth you will have to do some work, like wat u do on the body of a car.

Or if you whant I can send you a mold to cover with fiberglass and then break out, its of solid foam. Will be 25$ + shipping.

OK, I thought you were offering to make the scoops and sell them. But I looked around and saw plenty of ideas on ramair.com. But thanks for the replies

To make the mold yourself you need:
-a plastic garbage bag as large as u whant the scoop
-1 can of 2 component construction foam (the one to set window frames in houses)
-transparent boxing tape
-scoulpting skills
-fiberglass and gluing components (to make the scoop)

Fill the plastic bag with the foam, close it under your hood at the right place and let dry(normally 2 hours).

Take the dry foam out of the bag and scoulpt your scoop.

Cover it with boxing tape and put some clear wax on it (the fiberglass resine will not glue to it).

Cover the mold with fiberglass and resine (1,5-2 milimeters is largely anough) and let dry.

Break the mold out and do the "bodywork".

Drill a hole in the lowest point to allow to evacuate wather if it gets inside.

.

camaro tpi cold air box upgrade,

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...pi-camaro.html (High-flow TPI Camaro air lid)

I am just curious how that would be a cold air intake? Yes I understand the principle of what your doing but when I close my hood on my T/A it's a pretty tight area right where your air pick up is and the heat from the radiator seems to be highly concentrated in that area and give heat rises .... I just don't see how it could be very productive ..... Have you ever monitored the air intake temps to see how well it works, I would think when one of these cars reaches 220 it's inhaling nothing but hot heat anyways ....... But maybe I'm wrong

jproz, if you do the first step of building the scoop mold you will know how much space you have under the hood, most of it 1" and the center op to 1.5". That why it has to be large.

With the trans-am hood you have two 1" holes in front of the grilles, you can drill 3-6 holes much closer tho the radiator (I would not drill them right on top of the radiator but about 2" to the front of the radiator to be safe by driving in extreme rain) for probably the best ever daily driver set up.
If you cut the holes right in front of the scoop you have a tru ram air intake, only problem is driving in extreme rain, but you could also find som covers or flaps.
Personally just for fun, some day Im goin to bore the 3-6 holes (I dont know how many yet) in front of the radiator or do some kind of flap opening, but since this set up aready allows twice as much air as a dual snorkle with some siple math, Im not really in a hurry.

Concerning the air themperature, dont forget that if the scoop is correctly built it draws the air from in front of the radiator, even by a stop it does not pull underhood air.
As you mentioned everything gets really hot under the hood thats why ducting must be as short as possible and the filter housing the best flowing as possible.
I still need to find were to find the IAT data with winaldl, for comparison. If you know let me know.
To drive it always feels like flat base open element in its best moments-5min after startup.

This is my self made air box. I thoght to sell kits like this but unfortunately the price is prohibitive.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2668586/4

I was just curious is all about it being right above the radiator since my car in that area is blistering hot all the time ... I actually use my cowl induction to draw cool air though.

jproz, I like the stock trans am hood.

The contact surface between the radiator plastic shroud and the scoop is about half as much as it loocks like on the pics. I am going to use a heat scanner hofully in a few weeks and update on the inside themperatures.

Like mentioned, underhood exposed components including the hood, are heat exposed, there is no way around that. Of course we could insulate.

When I put my hand in the scoop at idle the air flow is just anough to feel it but as I rev the engine it sucks in air like a vaacum cleaner and there is just no way it will get hot by flowing the 22" it takes to get to the tb bores.

A classic all day cowl hood air channel gets as hot as the sun can bake it on the top and as hot as the engine compartement can heat it from the bottom, in other words its a hot area. Untill you get to a speed were there is anough air flow to blow to your air filter (around 40 miles/h), the engine runs on underhood air. If your set up is better then the classic cowl hood I would like to see it.

Wat gains would you expect from your cowl hood vs my air intake set up and under what circumstances?

I would think for one mine supplies more air since I have 3 inlets to which my car can can draw air. In your case I would think if you connected that 3 inch pipe/hose to a 90-92 T/A TPI air tract you would pick up cooler air where the TPI's filter housing is ... but then again you could have your battery there ... I think a awsome setup for your car would be this though keep that TBI hat but connect the 3 inch hose/pipe to one of the SLP twin air TPI intakes, that would make for a real nice setup. ...... About the only thing I don't like about cowl induction is the noise during acceleration .... But I do think it would be interesting to compare cold air intake systems and really see which one draw the coolest air using in car gauges to measure temperatures inside the ducting as well as inside the air cleaner. .... I would think the IAT sensor would be a good source to do the air cleaner temps with maybe just mount multiple ones and use a jumper wire to test seperate areas individually through the ECM.

Probably you are not seriously interested in the functionnality of my cold air set up, you'r posting without spending time reflecting and reading.

The hose is 4" ID.

Whit a well made scoop there is no hot air from the engine compartement going in you'r engine.

TPI ducting are longer wich means exposing incoming air to hot surface for a longer time. TPI ducting's largest spots ar about 3" and have a L (or a T the one you suggest) to get to the tb that makes them less flowing then a 22"(from the inlet to the tb bore)straight 4" ducting.

With my set up from feeling the flow with the hand, it takes the air 1.5 seconds to get in the trottle bores at idle and 0.5 seconds at half trottle. No way I would have to put multiple IAT sensors to know the exact themperature of the air entering the tb bores.

Post your set up if it is awsom istead of writing everything that passes in your minde.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_49_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_52_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_53_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_51_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_56_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...86_54_full.jpg

At idle in P with hot engine, inside the air box its about 20°C warmer then the outside themperature. Locking forward to do some mesurements in driving condition.
Im using a normal thermometer that I put in the air box.

I'd really like if you could sell me one of those. Let me know if you're interested.

Not for sale anymore!

You will need a 3"x10" air filter + cover and a inside diameter 4"x9,8" long hose of silicon or other flexible materieal (I like the silicone one because it doesent get too hot, you can find it on ebay under 4" turbo coupler hose)

A little more then i paid for my dual snorkeler, but it looks great man!

Thank you. Keep in minde that mine is a direct fit for third gens and that the components are at least 2x more expensive here then in Canada or u.s.

I really like the look of the dual snorkle but I just couldent find anough place in 87-92 thirdgens to fit everithing properly.

i would really like to make this set up. i would just get the base from ramairbox im lookin at it right now but how did u make that "scoop" i would really like to know. im guessing some fiberglassing or what? any info would be appreciated thank you.

91-RS,
Look up at post #12 & #13. For the wather hole you can make it in the hose right after the scoop. 0.5" D is anough.

I actually dont use ramair's base anymore, the complete box is fiberglass like the scoop. The previous ramair base I had to cut and adapt for more clearence.

Take your time and go tru every detail, so that you need to do it once. Post pics wenn istalled.

Now thats cool

Here the actual wiew of the self made fiberglas base.

wow this setup looks sharp! i guess this would also be a nice improvement in breathing ability!
very good idea for using the later TA hood louvers for the ram-air! i still prefer my cowl hood(s), just for the looks of it, though

Wow that is a good price. Their is a 90% chance I may be buying a TBI bird soon and if I do, I am going to buy your air kit for a chrismas present for myself. $250 is for the complete kit minus the filter though right?

You will need to be wery patient it is a hobby, im working on 2 improved versions with bigger filter (10x3"k&n is a little small for modded LO3's) and one set up with cone filter. Also tryn to determine how to model the new base.
Ill keep updated.

i would like to get my open element air cleaner and have the box around it, is that possible?? i would like to take advantage of my ram air II hood.

very nicely done. looks factory clean.

thats tuff,

i have question wen you order the 10x3 air box do you have to order a separate base or does it come with one. if not what kind of base?

Personally at the moment I would not suggest it on a 200 and+hp engine, filter may be a little to small. I still have to figure out.

I have a MAP kpa drop at wot from 98@1800rpm to 92@4400rpm, this does indicate a restriction, with my mods. I know its not the box because I have a 1/2 cut open one for cooler weather that shows the same identical MAP readings.

Im going to try out a bigger filter soon and se what comes out.

It could also be intake related since the lack of crossflow on the TBI performer, or the stock TB?
I hope Ill find out when I have some time to try out the 46mm turbocity TB.

oh ok i really do like the set up im going to wait around summer time and see if any progress is made.
as of now its more of a cosmetic mod, since the small filter would not benefit my motor.

i do like the idea of having all fresh air ramming into the motor instead of the hot under hood air that i have with my open element.

i had a cowl that wouldve of worked wit the open element but the cowl is gone now, n i dont think im going to get another one.i like the regular stock hood on the car.

i know this is an old thread but WOW great job I would like to build the same type of setup hopefully it will be able to feed 400 hp

Here is the latest version, little different but similar http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tb...l-diy-tbi.html (Classic cool DIY TBI cold air intake)

Yup I really like that setup your running Thomas.

Check out post #23 , can cut bigger holes.
A less tall radiator would allow even more variations.

What company makes that air cleaner?