servo2055chevy

I have an '83 Camaro Cross-Fire F/I with a 305. I started it up and went to rev it and it wouldn't go past 2500 RPM's. So I just decided to drive it and it wouldn't shift into second Gear (It's an automatic) Luckily there were no cars behind me becuase it basically felt like I was wound out at 20 MPH! haha. So I came up to a red light and It was Idling low and off the light I just punched it because I needed all 3 gears or 4 W/e it is, idk. But I was going on a high way well I got into second but it wouldn't go past 25 MPH, not anything more that that, I had to pull over and get 'er towed home. Does anybody have any Idea what it could be? I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump seems good. Could it be a spark advance? And also since I bought the car it always would be hard to start. It's not anything major but it would take 3-4 seconds to crank over when it's cold, do you know what that could be? i realy appreciate the help

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

yah bad fuel pump, disconnect a line on the engine side of your fuel filter and check your fuel pressure.

servo2055chevy

Ok, I will just get a new pump. I'm not going to even worry about the fuel pressure. Its not going to hurt to replace it anyways. Your pretty sure its a fuel pump tho. My shop teacher was sayin it might be the spark advance? but when i replaced the cap and rotor the metal piece under the rotor doesn't seem to turn for the spark advance?

Quick_Trans_Am

iTrader: (2)

Did the engine stumble its way up to 2500, or did it go strong and hit a wall?

Judging from your symptoms and prior experience, I'd say take a look at your catalytic converter if there's one on the car. If it's plugged your car will be lucky to do 25 mph. Keep us posted.

servo2055chevy

Accually yes. The Car will rev strong up to 2500 then just not want to go ANY higher. Same with driving it, It will go through 1st gear just fine, then right as second gear hits it won't go anymore. Later today im guna pull off the O2 sensor and just let it hang and see if i can get up to higer rpms. Thank you for helping me with this, I realy appreciate it.

kevinc

Back when mine still had Cross Fire, it did the same thing...no power, no acceleration, sounded like it was running rich. Turned out to be the Electronic Spark Control module. It's located under the dash, passenger side footwell, yellow box about the size of a cassette tape case.

servo2055chevy

Realy?? How hard is it to get to? But my car does have power but up untill it gets to 2500 rpm then it just stops revving up even though my foot will continue to the floor.

servo2055chevy

I just did some research on the Spark Control Module and It said it was used ton TPI Cars from 85-93 and TBI from 87-93. My car is a 1983

Quick_Trans_Am

iTrader: (2)

Did the engine make any different or out of the ordinary noises when it reached its max rpm? Did the exhaust sound different? Describe as best you can please.

servo2055chevy

It doesn't make any different noises while revving up to 2500. Then as soon as i get to 2500 or around there (sometimes it will go a little higher) It wont rev any higher, and if i keep putting my foot to the floor it will start boggin down. thats basically all its doing. then when I told you about it just barely hitting second gear, and even then it will do the same while im driving it. When I drove it and just hit second gear and it wouldn't go any faster it sounded like the car was wound out at the last gear, I just has no power at that point, but It feels great at Idle-2500, and like you said it just hit a wall, It never stalls out tho, I don't know if that helps. I still have yet to pull out the O2 sensors and let it run, but when I have the car running the exhaust seems to flow freely, but the car burns oil and I did start it up one time and let the car warm up to operating temp and tried revving it again and I saw the blue smoke in the engine compartment... so maybe it is a clogged exhaust and the pressure was building up and the blue smoke was pushed out somewhere else. the catalytic converter rattles too. It did it since i got the car last year. It will idle and whenever the cat rattles the idle will flucuate, meaning the idle will go down (just a little bit, its barley noticable) and then the rattle will start, then stop, then 30 seconds later start again. The rattle never lasts more than 5 seconds each time. It just goes. bup, bup, bup, bup, bup. then stop then come back like i said, 30 seconds later. Again I really appreciate you helping me with this.

Quick_Trans_Am

iTrader: (2)

To me, It really sounds like your catalytic converter is plugged. If I were in your situation, I would disconnect the exhaust at the Y pipe where it meets the catalytic converter, if it's not welded on, and secure the exhaust so it won't drag. Try driving it. If your problem goes away then you've got a plugged up cat. If you still have the issue, then as KevinC posted, you may have an issue with your spark control. I hope that's all your issue is, and hope it helps.

servo2055chevy

Ok, I will try that. Thank you for your help. I will leave a message after I done so to let you guys know what happens. Again, Thank You

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

If your exhaust is plugged its much easier to check that by using a vacuum gauge than disconnecting the y-pipe, a plugged exhaust will have a gradually falling needle on the gauge at idle. Check the ignition timing to make sure it isnt retarded. Check fuel pressure. Check tranny, could be a bad torque converter. more likely plugged cat though.

kevinc

And mine's a 1982, your research is faulty. For example, there's no such thing as a 1993 TPI car.

Unless your distributor has a big vacuum canister mounted on it, the computer is controlling your spark advance.

As the engine RPMs increase, more advance is needed to get peak cylinder pressure at TDC. Without a functioning ESC, it can't happen.

Does your Check Engine light work? And if so, is the light lit? If this is the case, have the code(s) read or use the paper clip trick to flash them.

If you've got a working CE light and no code set, whip out your timing light and see how much advance it's pulling at idle. Then check it again as you increase the engine speed to ~3000 RPM. Report back with numbers.

If you've got the ESC error code, it's time to get to work. You just unscrew the lower fascia from under the dashboard, passenger side footwell, and you'll see it screwed to the bottom of the dash as I described. It's not serviceable, just a printed circuit board assembly...start shopping for a replacement.

Added: here's one that may be the right piece: http://www.corvettepartsman.com/inde...OD&ProdID=3548

And here's a rebuilt unit for $40, might be the right one: http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?d...06&pf_id=46515

servo2055chevy

I meant 85-92 and 87-92 sorry bout that

servo2055chevy

My check engine light doesn't work. I also don't have a timing light. But your saying I DO have a spark advance for the car? When I looked under the rotor there was a metal piece, usually that opens kinda and closes for the spark advance. Myne didn't move but it also didn't look like the regular spark advance piece i seen on a 350 chevy distributer. Then again mynes a 305 crossfire

servo2055chevy

The trans problem has to be related to the prob with the car not revving past 2500. It started at the same time.

kevinc

Are you saying you can't be helped?

Put a bulb in the CE light socket. Buy or borrow (AutoZone loan-a-tool) a timing light.

8t2 z-chev

I say a plugged cat is the problem-tranny problem is
related,the high throttle opening with the inabilty to
gain speed causes the tranny to think heavy acceleration
is called for. Faulty esc will affect engine some,but
won't prevent it from reving over 2500 rpm.'82 esc
is a black plastic box under the dash near the ecm,'83
is a module underhood by the brake booster

servo2055chevy

ok Will do, I have to pull off the exhaust, I cannot loosen the O2 sensor. I will keep y'all posted. But Is it determined that I don't have a spark advance on the distributer??

8t2 z-chev

all '81 up computer controlled chevy engines control
the spark advance electronicly via the ecm-they do
not have a vacume canister or centrifugal advance
weights under the rotor.

heavyduty

Has he verified that the dizzy hasnt been swapped out? Could have an older style in it..

kevinc

As I posted earlier, if there's not a vacuum pot on the side of the distributor you have the factory ECM-managed spark advance system.

You can double-check by removing the cap and rotor, and seeing if you have the old centrifugal advance mechanism there. It's two J-shaped metallic weights laid flat on their sides, each with a coil spring attaching it to the base. The faster the dist shaft spins, the more the weights pull outward which advances the distributor.

An ECM-controlled distributor will have neither of these.

Or...and this is just a wild idea...you could do the two cheap, simple things I posted previously. Fix your Check Engine light ($2 bulb) and borrow a timing light from Auto Zone ($0 when you return it). And while you're at Auto Zone, see if they'll hook up their scantool and read you any error codes the ECM has set. Usually they'll do this for free.

Much simpler than dropping the exhaust and trashing your O2 sensor trying to remove it.

Either way, keep us posted so we can either help or laugh at you.

servo2055chevy

I brought my car into my school (i take auto shop) and my teachers were saying that it runs way rich, and theres alot of soot in the exhaust pipe. We also discovered the timing is off. its supposed to be 6 degrees well its at 23. but we couldn't find out where the black and tan wires are at to reset the timing can you please help. and how do i fix the problem with it being rich?? Tomarrow i will scan for codes and use the computer in my shop and let you know as I'm in school. My teachers have never seen the distributer that comes stock with the car where there is no cintrifugal advance or no seperate coil

servo2055chevy

Also the funny thing is, is that when I drove it to my school and it seemed to run perfectly fine, I got it up to 45 MPH, I didn't want to really go too fast incase the car broke down. The car was cold too, Meaning I didn't let it warm up too much. I havn't tried revving it yet to see if it would go past 2500 rpm. Its just my luck that when I finally get it somewhere that has tools that can help me, then the problem just dissapears. I don't know, I don't wanna jinx myself. But it went past 25MPH so the problem has to be fixed right?? It didn't seem to hesitate or anything, It accually ran nice down the road. seemed to have plenty of power. Could it have been loaded up then cleared itself when I drove it??

servo2055chevy

Well. The problem is fixed. It ended up being a clogged catalytic converter. I took it off clompletly revved straigt up to 6K RPM. so i looked inside it and it was completly torn up. everything was clogged, so i hallowed out the cat and put it on. Now it runs so much better. I can hear the flowmaster muffler on there now. Its realy loud. Thanks everybody for the help.

kevinc

Congrats! What did you do about the timing issue you found?

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

the timing is going to be at 23 if you dont disconnect the electronic advance line, its over by the heater black and tan wires.

servo2055chevy

we couldn't find the wire. Honestly Im just happy to fix the problem with the car not wanting to rev up. It has SO much more power now. Hahah, It feels like a Z28 Now! My shop teacher told me that since the problem was fixed I had to take it back home. We don't have too much room by the shop and theres alot of work. Were rebuilding the rear in the 87 Camaro race car we race on weekends, It has a 383 stroker motor, and were just starting to put together a mustang with a 351 windsor, thats going to be a backup race car. That wont be ready for another coulple of months. Anyways, My car is alot louder. My friend told me that it has a flowmaster and i said no way cuz its too quiet. well as soon as we cleaned out the cat it roared to life! I also discovered i need a radiator too My shop teacher took the car for a test drive and when he came back it was leaking. I just put a bottle of prestone radiator stop leak just for a Temp. fix

V6F1R3BRD

Well its awesome you got it running good. just why use stop leak.. if it gunks up holes just think about what it could gunk up in your motor.. lol

servo2055chevy

What should I do? I did see this blue all purpouse liquid coolant sealer. It works for the radiator water pump and head gaskets. Is blue and it's liquid instead of the gel stuff. Should I use this?? And how do I fix the problem with the car being rich?? Appreciate the help