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Which Brand of Syn for motor? I've used mobil in my rear and it whined a little with the additive. I put the RP in there witht he additive and its quiet as heck. so what to use in the motor?
__________________ 89 FORMULA 6.0L LSX
423RWHP 399 RWTQ
i believe given my choice i'd run amsoil, but it's hard for me to find and i don't do the on line ordering thing, so i usually run mobil 1 synthetic and pennzoil for dino oil.
__________________ MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Ex quocumque facere poteris te sauciabit, nihilo comprehenso.
Amsoil, shipping really doesn't take that long....... I buy it in bulk (case) and use it in all my vehicles...... When u buy it in bulk, u have enough for the whole year.
__________________ 86 SC, 305 LG4, TH700R4, SLP headers, 3" cat and exhaust. ZZ intake, Mild cam 204/214, .423/.442. SLP shift kit, richmond 3.73's w/limited slip. Suspension Techniques Sway Bars, Globel West Wonderbar, Poly everything bushings, Metco LCA's, Lakewood Panhad Rod. 16" ROH, with BFG G-Force KDW 245's and Tokico springs with 5 way shocks. Nothing easy can be fun...
amsoil everything from bumper to bumper, better motor oil, better coolant that works better than royal purple or redline additives, trans fluid and gear lube in the rear. and amsoil filters.
__________________ 88 Formula 5.7 TBI in the works.
"go home and water that thing...then bring it back when it grows up!"
I'm an Amsoil dealer (just to get the discounts) and it's decent stuff. Amosoil says it's better than Mobil 1, but who the heck really knows? Both of them are far better than you will ever need them to be.
I like running extended oil change intervals on my daily beaters. Good quality synthetic stuff lets that happen without trashing the motor. Back before I went synthetic I was changing oil every 3000 miles (like a good little consumer sheep). I was changing oil on SOMTHING every weekend! Since going to Amsoil I bump that up to about 10,000 (they say I can go longer but I'm the nervous type). I've got about 70,000 miles on 3 vehicles, both new and really old, doing this routine with no problems to report at all.
I've been using Mobil 1, but I'll be most likely switching to Amsoil, since my car sits a lot.
What do you mean? My car sits a lot too and I have noticed that my oil (mobil 1) now leaks a bit through the valve covers. Is it the Mobil one or what? Maybe I just need new vc gaskets.
Thanks
--Dan
And DAMON...can i buy some amsoil from you since you're a dealer and all. My oil change is about due.
--Dan
__________________ Dan Ciccarelli
86 IROC Z-28, T-5, 3.73
Gen I Crate 350, Holley 670 SA /Keith Dorton Single Plane intake,, Edelbrock 1" Spacer, Copper core wires, Ported (by Brodix) TFS Twisted Wedge G2 Heads deck to 62cc chambers, Comp XE284 Hyd Cam, Comp Pro Magmum Roller rockers (1.52 exh/1.6 int), Comp Hi-tech Chromoly Pushrods, Pete Jackson Timing gears, 12degrees initial timing, 58 degrees total, Lakewood Traction bars, Edel Strut tower brace, GR-2 Shocks and Struts, Competition Engineering SFCs, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD 6AL Hei Kit, X-Stream Air Filter, Summit Headers, No cat/smog pump, Flowmaster exhaust. Dark blue with tints. FULLY Redone interior red/black with 96 Camaro Seats.
I've got a '96 with 4,100 miles on it, so it sits a lot. With Mobil 1 15W50, I have no leakage issues. Ditto on the '86 with 47,000 miles, and all the other vehicles with various mileage that sit for extended periods. I don't believe that leakage can be blamed on the lubricant. Even kerosene, JP4, and all its derivatives can be kept in a container that is properly sealed, and that stuff will wick through almost anything.
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
Originally posted by Vader I've got a '96 with 4,100 miles on it, so it sits a lot. With Mobil 1 15W50, I have no leakage issues. Ditto on the '86 with 47,000 miles, and all the other vehicles with various mileage that sit for extended periods. I don't believe that leakage can be blamed on the lubricant. Even kerosene, JP4, and all its derivatives can be kept in a container that is properly sealed, and that stuff will wick through almost anything.
So, it's ok to use Mobil 1 if the car sits. Cause mine isn't driven now from Sept to Dec, so that is 4 months. I'll just stick with the MObil 1 if that is no big deal.
I like royal purple, I put that in a friend of mine's car it was a dodge stealth v6 dohc non turbo and you felt the difference cuz we put it in the engine and transmission, less friction, more power, nice stuff the engine reved up smoother and the idle was good, so either the oil is awesome or his engine sucked
Originally posted by 17camaro83 I like royal purple, I put that in a friend of mine's car it was a dodge stealth v6 dohc non turbo and you felt the difference cuz we put it in the engine and transmission, less friction, more power, nice stuff the engine reved up smoother and the idle was good, so either the oil is awesome or his engine sucked
hmmm, I can't really see it making a diff that you can feel.
Originally posted by Viprklr hot rod mag just had an article on dino juice vs. synth. bottom line - synth freed up 10 hp.
SLP did a similar dyno test and got 9.8 HP at the rear wheels simply by changing from clean (new) mineral oil to clean synthetic.
In addition, changing to synthetic along the entire driveline yielded an overall net increase of over 16 HP at the rear wheels. There's no sdoubt the less friction = more power. There is also no doubt among those of us who have been deep into a synthetic engine after extended mileage that the decreased friction is apparent on the micrometers and telescope gauges. I'm a believer.
I also feel that Amsoil has been at the forefront in synthetic lubrication for vehicles, but Mobil has made some recent improvements that nearly erase any difference in performancec of the synthetics. It's sad for Amsoil that their distribution system is not better, since their sales could be significant with proper advertisement and distribution. Maybe some day.
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
In addition, changing to synthetic along the entire driveline yielded an overall net increase of over 16 HP at the rear wheels. There's no sdoubt the less friction = more power. There .
Originally posted by sorch60 Is there any downfall to switching to synthetic after using regular oil for the past 20 years?
I have this same question 148K on motor earlier in posts people were saying could create leaks because of less friction, leaks in cylinders by the rings would probably be insignificant, I don't see how it would make valve covers, or motor pans leak. Anybody have any real knowledge on this subject of an older engine switching over late in life?
We use Redline in our Spitfire, though we use valvoline mineral oil on break in. Redline significantly reduces oil temp at road racing speed and gives marginally more power. It's 8 bucks a quart and I would definately not use it on a streetcar. Redline has always given us asesome protection under race conditions.
On a streetcar that you plan to keep for awhile, I recommend Valvoline's Durablend, it's a mix of synthetic and petroleum oil. It's a good balance of better protection and good cost.
On a side note, we just started using Redline shock resistant gear lube in the Spitfire's trans and rearend. It also gives more rear wheel power and better protection.
I didn't read any of the previous posts cause there are too many, so if I repeated anyone, my bad.
__________________ -84 Z28 L69. 5 speed with broken 3.73 posi, cam and porting.
-H Production Triumph Spitfire SCCA roadracer.
None of the synthetic companies hesitate comparing their product's performance against petroleum lubes. AMSOIL is willing to publish test results comparing their products to the other guys' synthetics.
Mobil 1 is great. I will say though that an engine builder I know thinks that RP is the best and has seen dyno proven HP gains to back up his thoughts.
Originally posted by omcrider I have this same question 148K on motor earlier in posts people were saying could create leaks because of less friction, leaks in cylinders by the rings would probably be insignificant, I don't see how it would make valve covers, or motor pans leak. Anybody have any real knowledge on this subject of an older engine switching over late in life?
I'd like to know too if synthetic will create leaks in an old motor (152k). I would definately change over if it doesnt create leaks in my vehicle. Anyone know for sure if it will? Cuz my oil pressure can't take the laughing gas. lol.
From what I understand, synthetic does not create leaks. It just finds leaks that were already there.
Mineral oil forms deposits and what-not that might fill in these leaks, plugging them up. However synthetics do a very good job at cleaning your engine out, thus removing the plugs, and making it seem like the synthetic oil caused your engine to leak.
Originally posted by IROCZTWENTYGR8 I think I experienced that. But to just not leak I would have rather stayed with regular oil.
I think I agree with this. I just fixed a front tranny seal thats been leaking for awhile, was anal enough to crawl under my car and clean all old oil deposits off the bottom. I don't think I want to risk another leak. Another 20K or so I will have to rebuild then after break in I will use synthetic. For now I'll sacrifice a little friction for peace of mind.
Amsoil makes a good detergent that you run your older engine with right before you change your oil. I did this on our farm truck before switching to AM10-40. There was literally balls of gunk that was coming out with the pennsoil that was draining out of the motor. This was a 87 2x4 22r powered yota with 220k on the clock. It probably gets driven around an hour or two a day on the farm so dependability is key. Afterwards the truck didn't smoke anymore right after startup. Still no oil leaks and burns no oil. The heads have never been off this motor either. Now it has around 300k on it and keeps on ticking.
I have used Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, and am now using Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic 5-40w. I believe is still has zinc in it which a lot of oils have removed from the formulation for emmissions...but some Diesel Oils still have it.
Haven't seen the Amsoil high temp sheer comparsion between these two oils.
I have used Mobil 1 on the rear axle, transmission, engine and used Mobil 1 grease for my Camaro since 1993 when I got it. Never had a problem with it. Btw, the car had 64,000 miles when I got it. Now 120000 miles+.