Camaros4_life

I had my car in the shop for the carburator being all screwed up. The guy who worked on it cut hoses and put duck tape on them. He also told me that there was a coffecan looking thing that was rusty so he unhooked it so it wouldn't suck rust and other material into my carb. Any way, I got the car back 2 weeks later, and it ran really hard shutterd for about 5 min idaling then ran somewhat normal. I drove it home put it into garage for the night. Whent out the next morning, would try to start it would crank and then almost start. So I was thinking, that my rotor/plugs/distributor/ ect were all messed up, changed all those but the plugs. Anyone know what could be causing my car to not start? thanks for your time.

Bort62

Gotta Love Mechanics...


Why Do You people take your Cars to people like this ?


as for your car not starting, its probraly Scared ****less your going to take it to a chop Shop like that again...




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

The ODB

what do you drive? as in describe your setup before the chop incident.



[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 05, 2001).]

MrF-body

i would start by figuring out where the vacuum lines he cut were supposed to go. second, untill then i would remove the cut pieces of hose from the carb and put "real" vacuum caps on it. did they rebuild the carb?
if so, i wouldhate to even think what they left out of it "because you don't need it"
too, funny.
P.S remember we're laughing with you, not at you. everyone's been down this road at least once in their lives.

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have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
paid $600 at a junkyard for it (i had to save it)

[This message has been edited by MrF-body (edited February 05, 2001).]

TomP

Wow. I wouldn't have paid the guy, I would've sued him.

This is for a GM car? Here's a book that seems to be popular:

Title: Rochester Carburetors
Author(s): Doug Roe
Copyright: 1981, HP Books (Price Stern Sloan, Inc. )
Publisher: Price Stern Sloan, Inc.
ISBN#: 0-89586-301-4

Find that book, then find another carburetor from your style of car in a junkyard, and rebuild it. I hear it's "not bad" if done by the book. I have a friend with a GM car that uses the LG4 motor; his mechanic has done nothing but screw him from day one with his carburetor. His mechanic rebuilt it 3 times in one year, and blames it on the carb! Yet my friend puts all his faith in his mech. I would love to rebuild the carb myself for him... but he's brainwashed into thinking it's the carb's own fault.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

The ODB

forgot to mention..
wanna try one of my carbs?



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*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

Bort62

Just an off topic Question ODB, what heads are you Running ?

That Combo Seems a lil Mild to get You in the 10's On Motor ( or on gas ), What am I missing



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

gruveb

Just finished fighting the same type of thing.....basically you have to find a stable starting point....in another words, undo what he did.

Time to get your hands dirty.....replace all of the lines, not just the ones he cut....this won't cost much money at all, even if you're on a tight budget. Then follow the diagram in the link below, Lord Vader was kind enough to post it with a response again....I used this picture, the diagram in the engine compartment of my car, my Haynes manual and the help of a couple of very kind people on this web site. My car runs "GREAT" now.

Anyhow, if you spend an afternoon scratching your head, you can undo what's been done. Then...hopefully with your new familiarity, you can figure out what the mechanic "tried" to fix, and maybe do it yourself.

https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/005282.html

The ODB

I have the street version aluminum Twisted Wedge TFS heads. And yes it is an extremely mild combination that pulls 17" of vacuum at a 700rpm idle. I drive regularly from St Louis to Atlanta and get 24mpg highway.
Just because it's mild doesn't mean it doesn't make power.
You are not missing anything.