Changing spark plugs
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Changing spark plugs
Its as easy as removing the boot, screwing out the spark plug, screwing in a new one, and putting the boot back on, correct? What's the easiest way to get to them? And what type of spark plug do I need?
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
During removal of the wire, pull on the boot and not the wire. Use dielectric (tune-up) grease in the boots before you put them back on. Do one plug at a time so you don't mix up the wires. Be careful not to cross-thread the plug when you're putting the new one in, especially if you have aluminum heads. If you have aluminum heads use a bit of antiseize on the threads. Don't overtighten the plugs, just snug them down good.
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Car: '92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Yes, in theroy its that easy. Getting to them can be a problem. Assuming you have a V8, you should be able to get all except plug numbers 7 and 8 from the top. I have to jack up the car and get those two from under the car. You might want to check the gap on the plugs to make sure they're right (they usually are, but I check anyway). I just put AC Delco back in mine, but I don't have any mods other than exhaust. You might want a hotter or longer lasting spark depending on your setup.
FYI - I always change my plug wires while I'm at it. Just be sure to replace one wire at a time so that you don't get them crossed. Distributor cap and rotor would be worth it too. Just my .02 cents.
Regards,
Deb
FYI - I always change my plug wires while I'm at it. Just be sure to replace one wire at a time so that you don't get them crossed. Distributor cap and rotor would be worth it too. Just my .02 cents.
Regards,
Deb
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I just picked up some Autolite Platinums. If there spark plug won't come out, do I just spray it good with some WD-40? And what is it exactly that I spray in the boot and does it go directly inside the boot?
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Originally posted by deb92rs
FYI - I always change my plug wires while I'm at it. Just be sure to replace one wire at a time so that you don't get them crossed. Distributor cap and rotor would be worth it too. Just my .02 cents.
Regards,
Deb
FYI - I always change my plug wires while I'm at it. Just be sure to replace one wire at a time so that you don't get them crossed. Distributor cap and rotor would be worth it too. Just my .02 cents.
Regards,
Deb
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by RebelTillDeath3
I just picked up some Autolite Platinums. If there spark plug won't come out, do I just spray it good with some WD-40? And what is it exactly that I spray in the boot and does it go directly inside the boot?
I just picked up some Autolite Platinums. If there spark plug won't come out, do I just spray it good with some WD-40? And what is it exactly that I spray in the boot and does it go directly inside the boot?
Use a bit of dielectric grease inside the boots before you put them back on to make it easier to get them off next time. It comes in a small tube...you can pick it up at any auto parts store.
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Well, I really don't think the spark plugs have ever been changed. Atleast not in the past 6 years, so I'm expecting they may stick just a little. By spark plug socket you mean just the longer socket, correct? How much is dielectric grease and could I use anything else?
I feel like such a moron, I know how to do this, I just want to be 100% sure and learn all the little details.
I feel like such a moron, I know how to do this, I just want to be 100% sure and learn all the little details.
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
A spark plug socket has a rubber or foam insert to keep the plug from moving around inside the socket and breaking it off.
Dielectric grease is cheap...silicone spray can work in a pinch but it won't last as long.
Dielectric grease is cheap...silicone spray can work in a pinch but it won't last as long.
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
If you are very, very careful...yes. Keep the socket straight when you're tightening them down.
Seriously, a spark plug socket is like $4...and you'll use it for years.
Seriously, a spark plug socket is like $4...and you'll use it for years.
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Alright, I feel like a moron. I could semi-easily get to one spark plug. It was the closest to the front of the car on the drivers side, but it didn't want to break loose and turn. I gave up because I didn't want to break it, and the others were next to impossible to get to.
Am I making this more difficult then it is? Is there something I'm missing here?
Am I making this more difficult then it is? Is there something I'm missing here?
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
You just need to learn to contort you body and arms all the way around!!! :lala:
No for a first timer it can be difficult. No real trick to it, just a matter of trial and error w/ different arm angles and such. My first time changing plugs when I got the TA was a PITA. Took me forever, I busted every knuckle, and was sore as all get out the next day.
Just keep on trying, and try not to get discouraged. If you still have the factory AIR emissions stuff, its a total pain to get to. Use a 3" 3/8 extension and the correct spark plug socket, and you should be alright.
No for a first timer it can be difficult. No real trick to it, just a matter of trial and error w/ different arm angles and such. My first time changing plugs when I got the TA was a PITA. Took me forever, I busted every knuckle, and was sore as all get out the next day.
Just keep on trying, and try not to get discouraged. If you still have the factory AIR emissions stuff, its a total pain to get to. Use a 3" 3/8 extension and the correct spark plug socket, and you should be alright.
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Do all spark plugs use the same socket size? I was just worried about breaking a spark plug because the ones I tried would not move, and I didn't want to force it and break it.
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
As long as you get it on there all the way, then you won't break it. Don't jerk it, just add even pressure until they break loose.
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yes
i believe its 5/8"
and be ready to deal with some bleeding fingers. im skinny, and i can reach all spark plugs from the top except the far one on drivers side, which i crawl under the car to reach
i believe its 5/8"
and be ready to deal with some bleeding fingers. im skinny, and i can reach all spark plugs from the top except the far one on drivers side, which i crawl under the car to reach
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I'm pretty sure that's what I was using, I was just concerned about breaking the spark plug. I'm not fat at all, but I have pretty big/muscular arms, this should be damn fun........ Passenger side seemed like the most difficult to get to.
Edit- Would it be easier to just put the car on jackstands?
Edit- Would it be easier to just put the car on jackstands?
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by RebelTillDeath3
Edit- Would it be easier to just put the car on jackstands?
Edit- Would it be easier to just put the car on jackstands?
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Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
Originally posted by RebelTillDeath3
I'm pretty sure that's what I was using, I was just concerned about breaking the spark plug. I'm not fat at all, but I have pretty big/muscular arms, this should be damn fun........ Passenger side seemed like the most difficult to get to.
Edit- Would it be easier to just put the car on jackstands?
I'm pretty sure that's what I was using, I was just concerned about breaking the spark plug. I'm not fat at all, but I have pretty big/muscular arms, this should be damn fun........ Passenger side seemed like the most difficult to get to.
Edit- Would it be easier to just put the car on jackstands?
Like everyone has said, just make sure you use a spark plug socket, and apply steady pressure, don't jerk on it. You'll get them, don't get discouraged... believe me, there's harder things you could be doing. Try doing an oil pan gasket without pulling the engine in a third gen, it's a pain in the @$$!
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Another dumb question, but I was taught working on bare drag cars. Where should I lift the car at? And where should I put the jack stands? And is it really easier if the car is jacked up? I just don't want to jack it up and then realize it was easier with the car down.
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Some (espically #8 and #6) are easier with the car jacked up. I found it was easier to get at the passenger side ones with my left hand and the drivers side with the right. I can get them all from the top this way. Also, for reference these are the plug numbers so you know what pple are talking about.
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Front of car
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Front of car
#24
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Originally posted by RebelTillDeath3
Another dumb question, but I was taught working on bare drag cars. Where should I lift the car at? And where should I put the jack stands? And is it really easier if the car is jacked up? I just don't want to jack it up and then realize it was easier with the car down.
Another dumb question, but I was taught working on bare drag cars. Where should I lift the car at? And where should I put the jack stands? And is it really easier if the car is jacked up? I just don't want to jack it up and then realize it was easier with the car down.
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.7L/L98
Transmission: 700r4
You can lift the car from the cross member or under the control arms, the jackstands will be placed on the formed rails (look like frame rails) they start right near the back of each control arm and run about 30" towards the back of the car.
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