87TAWS6

I was thinkin I might go with a 100 shot (max) of N20 instead of a supercharger. I'm assuming you'd reccomend a forged bottom end? Also with connecting rods which is better pressed or bushed? These are the parts I've been looking at so far.

Engine .030 Over:
Sealed Power Piston Kit (Incls: Forged Pistons, Rings, All Bearings, All Gaskets, High Volume Oil Pump, Brass Freeze Plugs) – $430
Cast Eagle Crank (3.480” Stroke, Bob Weight 1870, Rod Length 5.7”, 2 Piece Rear Seal, Internal Balance) – ESP-103503480 $285
Forged Eagle Crank (3.480” Stroke, Bob Weight 1870, Rod Length 5.7”, 2 Piece Rear Seal, Internal Balance) $655
Eagle Rods (Length 5.7”, Weight 5.65g, Pressed) – ESP-5700BPLW $300 \
Eagle Rods (Length 5.7”, Weight 5.65g, Bushed) – ESP-5700BBLW $320 /Either/Or

With Nitrous... what kinda cam would you guys reccomend?

Stekman

Screw nitrous. Get a 350. Cheaper than n2o. Lasts longer than n2o.

Well, most people here will agree to 3 or 4 simple steps, depending on how you look at it.

1.) get rid of the 305
2.) get a 350
3.) build from there

If you are fully rebuilding, the engine will have to come out. By putting the 305 back in there with new parts that COULD be used in a 350, you are shooting yourself in the foot, limiting the potential power your engine COULD make. If you yank the 305, rebuild it, drop it back in, depriving yourself of 45 EASY cubic inches, I'd almost call you foolish.

Consider a junk yard block. It would cost all of $50 or so. Having it cleaned up and prepped, thats up to $300, $350 tops.

ljnowell

why, why, why, why, why, why, why, why pay the money for a forged crank, rods, pistons, and then shove it into a 305 block? Thats like taking a diamond and hiding it in a turd. Sure it will increase the value of the turd, but it still smells like ****.

Air_Adam

ede

very well put, you sure have a way with words

mikobu3

bla bla

change the cam port the heads bigger valves , headers exhaust , good gears with stall , you will be peeing on l98 350's

trust me on that ,


if engine is warned out put a 383 in there ,

my 305 had only 40 000 kms , and it is fast as hell now

RB83L69

Do all that crap to a 350 instead of a 305, and for $100 or so extra, you'll be peeing on all the morons that wasted all that money on a 305 instead of stepping up and claiming that other 15% of nearly free power.

That's what this hobby is about; fun per $$$. If you can get 15% more fun for less than 2% more $$$$, it's a deal. Your head would have to be full of sand if you can't see that.

Stekman

Except he's not talking a measily little build like that. He's replacing the guts of the entire engine.

If you've got sand in your head from the situation RB described, I'd rather not consider what's in your head if you miss this fact.

onebad82z

iTrader: (7)

Here we go again...for the money your looking to invest...build a 350.

mikobu3:
change the cam port the heads bigger valves , headers exhaust , good gears with stall , you will be peeing on l98 350's

Thats the goal you'd aim for with all that money invested in his list???sad to say the least..

Build a 350 with specs close to what you have listed (forged and spray) and hunt down some LS1's.

mikobu3

just buy a 383 ,

read the post wrong ,

87TAWS6

thanx for the info guys. I'm gonna go with a 350. I might also go for a sroker kit for it to. Whos kit would you reccomend? I'd also like to get a 88-92 TPI. That way maybe eventually i can throw a procharger on it.