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Starting my car after 5 years

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Old 12-25-2004, 05:47 AM
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Car: 1982 Pontiac Trans Am (Recaro)
Engine: 5.0 v8 (305 TBI)
Transmission: Auto
Starting my car after 5 years

hi
before i atempt to start the car i would like some advice on what should be checked/done before i do.
The car has been sitting for just over 5 years, and the gas tank has only been filled half way, and the oil hasnt been changed since.
I know the simple things such as changing the oil, new battery, spark plugs/leads, rad and oil filter but thats about it.
Now since ive had the car its never been started and have been told a full tank of gas should be done when leaving it for a long period of time, but has only had half a tank is this going to cause problems do i have to rip out the tank and clean pipes ect?
Also the oil hasnt been change in 5 years or so, so i can drop that stright out and pour new oil in?? or do i have to pour something call Marvel Mystery oil in each spark plug hole and crank it over without the leads?? then change the oil or check the condition of the pistons?
ALL HELP WOULD BE GREATFUL as i have never done anythin like this before

THANX
D
Old 12-25-2004, 07:25 AM
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Engine: 666 c.i.
What type of car, engine, induction etc? If it's port injected, you may find your injectors don't open/close properly.

1) DRAIN ALL FLUIDS...including the gas. Replace all filters.

2) Inspect all ignition parts for corrosion, replace as needed.

3) If carb, take it apart and clean it. If fuel injection, be prepared to remove the injectors and have them sent in for cleaning.

4) Do general inspection of engine and car. Look for "new residents" and remove. Remember, many rubber parts may look good but aren't. Make sure the battery is good.

5) Prime the oil as you would with a new engine. Considering "cranking" engine with no spark plugs and a little oil squirted in each cylinder.

6) Cross fingers and start engine.

7) Inspect all hoses for leaks.

8) Check gas filter, it's probably clogged and your tank may need to removed and inspected for rust problems.

Last edited by Grim Reaper; 12-25-2004 at 07:28 AM.
Old 12-25-2004, 09:08 AM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Originally posted by Glenn91L98GTA
Look for "new residents" and remove.
i'd say evict those non-paying residents.

after you do what glenn said, and the car is about ready for driving duty, replace the tires. have a little fun with them before you replace them though.
Old 12-25-2004, 09:56 AM
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Happy Christmans to all.

Glenn has given you good instruction. The only thing I might consider doing differently would be to fog with a little 2-cycle oil and crank the engine for quite a while with no spark plugs installed. I mean, 30 second intervals (to build oil pressure) and perhaps 8-10 attempts at that. Charge the battery between crankings if necessary. Glenn only mentioned "oil", and didn't specify the type.

Of course you'll be changine engine oil and oil filter at least once, probably twice.

I might also hold off on changing the fuel filter until after the pump has run a while, mostly to allow the old filter to trap all the sediment it can before replacing it. That way, you may get by with just one fuel filter change.

Don't overlook the brakes. The seals can be hard, and mechanisms can be stick, including hydraulics. The fluid will need to be refreshed as well.

Whatever you do to get it running, take it easy for a while, since the engine, transmission, and driveline haven't had any load for quite some time. Get them up to temperature slowly and with as little loading as possible, then change the fluids.

The cooling system is likely to have quite a bit of sediment as well. If it still holds pressure agter your initial startup, drain and flush. Otherwise, repair, drain, and flush.

Same with the suspension, steering, and body bushings. A good lubrication now can save you a little frustration in the near future.

Good luck.
Old 12-26-2004, 07:56 AM
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Engine: sbc 350
dia',
if possible, crank the engine, with the fuel pump
electric wire disconnected, hope to get some oil pressure.
Unless you think there is water in the oil, I don't see the need for an oil change, immediately.
............
Having done something similiar, the problems I encountered
were, somewhat flat-spotted tires, and [much worse],
some of the in-tank plastic parts had dissolved as the gas
evporated.
Old 12-26-2004, 10:07 AM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: 700r4
Pull the plugs and either put some marvel mystery oil or something like a rust penetrator or something down the cyls to free the rings from walls. Do NOT try to turn over the engine if you dont do this... Let the oil sit for a few days to free up the rings. Do like the other guy said and disconnect the fuel pump wires or the ignition, so after you change the oil, you can turn the engine over a few times to build up oil pressure. - Dont turn the motor over with the plugs in and oil down the bores or youll get hyrdolock. Leave the plugs out, spin the motor over a few times, then put them back in and fire it up.
Old 12-26-2004, 10:24 AM
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Car: 1982 Pontiac Trans Am (Recaro)
Engine: 5.0 v8 (305 TBI)
Transmission: Auto
thanx for all your help, do you think it would be a good idea to remove the gas tank and check it out just to make sure that everythins ok? ive had a look at the condition of the pipes and seem ok but i dont know if they have any gas in them (wouldnt think so after 5 or so years)
I ve also odered a new water pump as i would think the old one would be rusted solid any other part which anyone think should be changed?

THANX AGAIN
Old 12-26-2004, 01:15 PM
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While you may indeed eventually need to remove the tank, there's no need to create more work for yourself from the beginning. You might be lucky in that the fuel cap did its job, and that the fuel filter will keep most of the sediment out of the system. If that's the case, the tank can remain in place and the eventual filter change will solve any sediment problems. While there's little doubt that the fuel is stale and has lost a lot of volatility, it may not be contaminated. I'd suggest adding fresh fuel of the lowest octane possible. Low octane fuel has fewer additives and higher volatility than higher octane fuels, and may help dilute the stale fuel better. Don't use any other additives in the fuel, just in case there are rust formations or varnish buildup in the tank. You really don't want to break loose any large deposits all at once.

Remove the plugs, wet it down with oil, freshen up the battery, crank it to establish oil pressure, then freshen up the fuel and try starting.
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