I need procedure to seal an 87-up oil pan so it does not leak
#1
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
I need procedure to seal an 87-up oil pan so it does not leak
I put a Fel-Pro perma dry one piece oil pan gasket on my engine along with a summit chrome oil pan, and it leaks like a bloody nose. I cleaned the block surface as well as the pan, and installed the gasket dry. It still leaks. This time I got a new GM oil pan from the ZZ383/425 engine and a new GM oil pan gasket.
Should I use any kind of sealants on the gasket?
It seems to be leaking the most where the gasket touches the aluminum rear main seal housing.
Any tips on how to seal it up like factory?
Thanks
Should I use any kind of sealants on the gasket?
It seems to be leaking the most where the gasket touches the aluminum rear main seal housing.
Any tips on how to seal it up like factory?
Thanks
#2
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trash the chrome oil pan and run a steel piece from the factory. i've never had one leak, with the 2 or 4 piece gaskets. any more one piece gaskets is all i use.
#4
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Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
chrome can be a punk to seal
i built a 355 for my dad, he got alot of chrome stuff... timing cover, valve covers, oil pan
i made him take it all back and spend another 200 bucks on piecing together some good aluminum stuff all around after complaining alot and having him read up on it a little.
not to say they are always problematic
but alot more so than a stock or aluminum piece
grab a one piece gasket and i bet you'll be fine with the stocker off that crate motor, be sure to tighten each bolt a little at a time so you don't warp it. i always make at least 3 passes before it's all torqued down, it's good for sealing AND piece of mind. lol
i built a 355 for my dad, he got alot of chrome stuff... timing cover, valve covers, oil pan
i made him take it all back and spend another 200 bucks on piecing together some good aluminum stuff all around after complaining alot and having him read up on it a little.
not to say they are always problematic
but alot more so than a stock or aluminum piece
grab a one piece gasket and i bet you'll be fine with the stocker off that crate motor, be sure to tighten each bolt a little at a time so you don't warp it. i always make at least 3 passes before it's all torqued down, it's good for sealing AND piece of mind. lol
#5
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Loctite 5699 High performance gasket maker (grey silicone)
This stuff is used in the truck industry. It's used to make pan gaskets on International 444E engines. It's used for front cover gaskets on Cummins 5.9 and 8.3 engines.
The stuff is great. I use it for the front and rear gaskets on my intake manifold. It sticks to dirty metal and once it dries, you'll need to cut it to remove the pan. If this stuff doesn't stop the leaks, you have other problems.
This stuff is used in the truck industry. It's used to make pan gaskets on International 444E engines. It's used for front cover gaskets on Cummins 5.9 and 8.3 engines.
The stuff is great. I use it for the front and rear gaskets on my intake manifold. It sticks to dirty metal and once it dries, you'll need to cut it to remove the pan. If this stuff doesn't stop the leaks, you have other problems.
#6
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
Thanks everybody! I've have been hearing good things about "the right stuff" by permatex. I think I will apply this to the ends of the engine in the problematic areas.
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