I seem to have encountered a new problem with my car that started about 3 weeks ago on a day when it was about 36C (about 97F but with the humidex it was about 45C or 113F). Now it probably wasn't the best idea to drive my car on a day like that but it started to heat up a lot. Now I don't think there was any actual heat damage to the car, but this is where my problem starts. Driving around town a little bit, I started to get this weird surging (I think thats what its called when the car starts to speed up and slow down really quickly, almost like it shifts up and then down in about a second, all while holding down the gas pedal). But the problem only seems to happen when the car is going from about 20kmh to 60kmh. I got the car home and started it up the next day and ran it and all seemed to be fine. But after more driving it seems that the surging is still there but now only under hard acceleration. Now there's also a couple other problems that I seem to have with the car since that day as well. Instead of the usual 3 pumps of the gas pedal before I can start it in the mornings, it takes about 6 - 10 pumps then it starts, runs ok then keeps slowing down and dies about 15 seconds from starting it, then I have to pump it another 4 -5 times to start it again, but before I can actually move the car I have to rev it up to about 3000rpm, let it come back down, then put it into reverse, otherwise just shifting it causes it to stall. Now this starting problem happens both from sitting overnight and from it sitting in the parking lot while I'm at work. And the other thing that I have noticed lately seems to be a metallic rattle (kinda like two plates of metal slapping together) seemingly from the passenger side (possibly exhaust system) after I've started it up for the second time in the mornings. After talking to one of our local part shops, they seem to think that the problem is fuel pump, so I tested that today. I unhooked the fuel line from the carb and watched the fuel come out as it is cranked over. It seems to come out periodically, it spits out a gush, then another gush, then just a little bit, then another gush again, etc. I haven't had to deal with fuel pumps yet so I don't know if this is normal or not. Now I know this is a lot of stuff, but I'm trying to be as detailed about this as I can and I'd really appreciate any help anybody can give me on this. Other than maybe switching the fuel pump, I am at a total loss. I've also checked most of my vacuum lines recently (had to replace only one though) and I've also checked my timing (which is now at about 12* advance, no pinging or problems starting when it was set to this). Here's the details on the car: 1987 Camaro SC (made for Canadian export, ie. no ECM or computer controls) 305 LG4 with stock Rochester Carb (rebuilt carb last fall) 700R4 OD Tranny Borg-Warner 9-Bolt Posi w/ Rear Discs (from 89 TransAm, installed last fall) Other than that, the car is basically stock

I've got 3 things to get you started. E.G.R. valve, carb adjustment and fuel filter. If it was the E.G.R., I'd think you'd be throwing a code, but then, you're not using a computer,lol. I'd look into these areas first.

Major thanks iroczracer07!! It never would've occured to me to try the egr valve, but sure enough I blocked it off and the surging stopped.

Seems I still gotta pump the gas a whole bunch for it to start but I'm gonna be changing my fuel pump this weekend and we'll have to see if that solves that problem.

For the first part of your problem, you're more than welcome. And thank you for taking the time to thank me. I really appreciate that. As for the fuel problem, I'd change the fuel filter and adjust the floats long before I'd even think about changing the fuel pump. I think changing your fuel filter and making some adjustments to your carb to make sure everything's cleaned up and in tune will solve your problem completely.

Actually I've rebuilt my carb just last fall (full rebuild kit, so I got new accelerator pump, new float, gaskets, etc) and afterwards, it was running really nice. And about two weeks I changed the fuel filter along with the regular oil change. Although this brings me to another question I'd forgotten to ask; I got a new choke pull-off (or vacuum break as some people call it) early last year, but I'm not sure how to set it properly and any help I can get on that would greatly appreciated.

For the carb adjustment, I put the vacuum gauge on it and it sits at about 16-17" of vacuum and this is with both mixture screws at about 3 3/4 turns out. Although I'm not too sure about now since plugging the egr resulted in it running alot smoother at idle. Unforunately I'm not sure what else to check on that part.

And I took better notice of the metallic rattle from the passenger side and it actually seems to be coming from under the valve cover. I had one mechanic initially tell me that it could be a problem with the oil getting into one of the lifters and that it might be shot, but he dismissed that when I told him it didn't happen absolutely every single time I started the car.

I just want to clear something up about the lifter real quick. Oil does go into it, because hydraulic lifters require oil to pump up. Your lifters could be going bad, the valve lash might need adjusted or the oil ports that supply oil to the rockers might be a little plugged.

As for the carb, since you've smoothed out the idle by plugging of the E.G.R. it's gonna change how the carb reacts. You really need to go back through and re-tune it. Quick question though. Are you using the carb with the electronic feedback set up, or have you switched to an older q-jet. If you have the electronic feedback q-jet, have you checked the Mixture Control Solenoid with a dwell meter for proper operation. The reason I ask is because if it thinks the car is running rich it can adjust the metering rods to lean it out. That would cause you to have to pump the gas a lot in order to start the car.

Thanks again for the quick replies (if I'm lucky I hope to have this mostly fixed up by the end of the weekend). I'm gonna do the carb tuning tomorrow and I'll let you know how that goes. Is there anything else that I should be checking other than the idle mixture screws?

And as for the carb it is the original one on the car, but I don't believe that it has any electronic feedback set up (I think this is because it is for Canadian export and has no ECM). The carb is the E4ME however there are several things that are not in it such as the mixture control solenoid, throttle position sensor, and the idle speed control assembly. When I opened up the carb last fall the connectors appear to be sticking out of the carb, but inside there are no solenoids or wires or anything.

And if you don't mind answering a question about the lifters, is there any good way to test them to see if they're still good? And how would I adjust the valve lash and how would be best to clean the oil ports that supply oil to the rockers?

I would stick with the adjustments that you normally make since the carb isn't computer controlled. That should work out just fine. As for cleaning the oil supply ports, a screwdriver or even a metal hanger used for poking at any dirt or grime in them will do the trick. I know they're pretty high-tech tools, but what did you expect?! Cleaning those oil supply and return ports is a high-tech job, lol. If you want to test the lifters, the best way I know is to place a length of hose or tuning near the position of each valve while you listen at the other end. If your valve lash is set correctly and you hear a noise from the lifter, then the lifter has given up the ghost, so to speak. Now for the long part of my post, the valve lash adjustment procedure.

1. Remove the valve covers.
2. Use a breaker bar and socket that will fit the crankshaft pulley center bolt, so you can turn the engine clockwise by hand until the number 1 piston is a T.D.C. on the compression stroke.

Note: You'll have to remove the number 1 spark plug and place a finger over the hole until you feel air pushed out of the hole against your finger. Continue turning the crank clockwise until the timing mark is pointed at 0. To make sure you're on the compression stroke for number 1, watch the intake valve for number one. It should open and close just before you reach the 0 mark with your timing line or pointer.

3. To adjust the valve, tighten the rocker arm nut while moving the pushrod up and down until all clearance between the rocker arm and pushrod has been removed.
4. Now spin the pushrod between your index finger and thumb as you slowly tighten the nut some more. When you feel a slight resistance while you're turning the pushrod, stop tightening the nut immediately, you've just reached the zero lash point.

Note: Do not use any downward force with the tool you use to tighten the rocker arm nut because it will affect the adjustment.

5. After you reach the zero lash point, tighten the rocker arm nut 3/4 of a turn to complete the lash adjustment.

Note: While you still have number 1 a T.D.C. adjust the following:
Intake Valves - 1-2-5-7 Exhaust Valves - 1-3-4-8
Exhaust valves get adjusted the same way as I described earlier.

6. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees so that number 6 is at T.D.C. on its compression stroke. You can use the method I described earlier if you can't follow the crankshaft through 360 degrees of rotation. Once you've established that you're at T.D.C. on the number 6 piston, adjust the following valves:
Intake Valves - 3-4-6-8 Exhaust Valves - 2-5-6-7
This will be done exactly like youb did the others.
7. Now you're ready to check your lifters like you wanted to and put the valve covers back on.

After all this, you can wipe the sweat off and give a sigh of relief. If you smoke, you can smoke a cigarette and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done. I hope this all helps you out my man. Post again after you're done and let me know how it went.