Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

So I've been lax and not posted these questions before but due to frustration I am.

I just rebuilt my motor and I'm trying to get it running right. The situation is hard because it tends to want to run hot ( with a 4 core copper radiator and two fans at that ) so I tend to keep it from running on too long. It's usually fine for about 30mins of fussing with it at idle, and then the temps start to climb higher than I like.

I'll break the concerns down as a list:

1: When the motor is shut down it tends to want to run on and diesel, I think this may be feedback from my fan but it's on a switch. Any Ideas?

2: The motor seems to have little or no power (hard to tell though because the POS trans is giving everything to blow up so I'm not sure). But even at that the thing doesn't really want to rev all the quickly and seems to just be blah (though when i rev it the whole car rocks pretty nicely so im not sure)

3: The motor is really tough to get running from a cold start. Theres a choke and it usually fires off the first pedal pump and few cranks but then it barely stays running and I have to keep the throttle up to let it stay around 1k rpms, then it dies and won't start for about 10 more tries. It sounds like its not firing all the cylinders at first then when it warms up it idles fine, its wierd. Kinda like to get it up and going i have to get it to start then rev it to clear it out.

4: The heat from under the hood is so hot i cooked like 4 sparkplug wires that were at least an inch away from the headers. Tells me lean condition but it's only the rear "half" of the engine so it may be the header design. Last time i pulled the plugs they were black ad smelled like fuel so i don't know.

5: As of last time i tried to drive the car all it seems to want to do is bog down and do nothing when i get on it. Even bogged then backfired a couple times when i WOT'd it. Maybe the stripped header bolt but I'm thinking carb, where should I look to changing to remedy this?

6: Also I seem to have an oil leak from either the rear manifold or the head. It's on both sides and drips down the block onto my headers. I retorqued the heads and it didn't help. What would be the signs of a warped head( slightly?)
Or is this most likely something else.


PLEASE HELP... thanks

MAD_IROC-Z_85

Check at you'r timing,look to not have enough!!! at how much and how did you time it!!

I don't now the curve on your distributor, 'ready to run' or nut it should be curve with your engine spec. depending on compression, cam, tranny, car size, ... go to a good reputation racing shop and let them curve it for you, you will say 'damn!!!!'

Curve-it, time it at the right spec whit your curve, then road-it and enjoy!!!

check at : http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

It's curved right trust me. But i should double check base timing, i set it to 10 advance but it may have gotten a little skewed

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

everything there screams timing to me. Triple check that first. I'm thinking a distributor problem, like timing going all over the place.

Then i'd be worried there's something wrong with the cooling system...

Dieseling is usually due to too much timing, and/or too hot in the combustion chamber. What heat range plugs you using? CR ? Fuel?
I've seen cars have their fans hotwire the ignition system, when you shut it off, it'll keep running indefinately, with nothing wrong... If yours starts to chug and die, after 5 seconds or so, then it's "dieseling", and not being hotwired on.

The leak; it leaks onto your headers? then it's not at the back of the motor right? but on the sides? That's tricky, perhaps hit it with a pressure washer or something, get it clean, then fire it up and use a flashlight and mirror and see if you can find that leak. Those're tricky, specially at the back of the motor...

mark wells

check everything. spark plug wires make sure they are not arking to another plug. check firing order. oil leaking onto exhaust manifold could be valve cover not tight or over tight. might have slipped over or be broken. If you have oil on the sparkplugs you could have not indexed the rings right and have blowby. how hot is your engine running. might have a bad t-stat. Did you do all the assembly yourself? do a compression test. then do a leakdown test. rings should seat in about 500 miles. If using crome molly rings it will only take 20 min. New engine will run a little bit hotter for about 1 hr. untill cast rings start to seat. what kind of machine work did you have done to the motor.

MAD_IROC-Z_85

Timing should be full advance at about 3000-3500, at this RPM everything should be seated ok.

I don't know your set up but 10 initial isn’t not much, try a very short curve, and give it some advance, try it at 14-20 easily by not exceeding 36-38 at full advance, if you don't ear it ping then he just like it!!!!!!




When I start my engine (I was alone) after 10 minute of running, my manifold was cherry-red , I was at 2 degree , idle was very hard, and trottle respons, ... no-way, I set it at 14 (whit my old distributor) and was much much much better!! now I have make it curve at BROSSARD Performance, Mr. Claude do an Exceptionnal job, THANKS TO OLD-SCHOOL guy!!!

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

ok alot to read...

Ill address what i can.

OIL LEAK: It leaks from the rear corner area and hits the collectors lol most likely I.m thinking i needa make a run to get new gaskets and go from there

TIMING: Yea i needa double check that. The dizzy is currently curved the shortest it will go and at a max of 36*

ASMLY: All me so I can verfiy the rings are in properly this is not my first motor

MOTOR WORK: .040 overbore, hot tank, recondition rods. new crank, pistons, cam, lifters. ~9.5:1 CR, 93 octane only so far ( im afraid to buy anyless though it'd be nice ). SP heat range... i wish i knew, I have accel shorty-for-header plugs in two heat ranges but i couldnt say what they are. Suggestions for better plugs?

MAD_IROC-Z_85

He, What about your engine, do you solve you'r trouble!!!

Let us know!!!



By the way, ... ... ...

If you need octane booster, don't use anything else then Lucas Octane Booster.

Here in Quebec Canada the highest octane at the pump is 91, only Lcas can make my engine run right instead of 100LL fuel(air plane gaz) that cost about 1.92$/litre

I dont now if you have acces to race ruel at your pump.I ear that some States have 140Octane at the pump, Here gas is like water!!

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

to be honest i havent touched it due to being busy.. ill let you know tho