cam assembly lube
01-31-2007, 02:21 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunny LaCrosse FL
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: LG4 feedback controlled 350
Transmission: used to be T5 now T56
cam assembly lube
I am swaping in Comp Cams XE cam and have heard horror stories about lobe failure at break in. Threads on here and other folks have said be sure to use the moly cam lube not the red stuff, get it at NAPA. I went to NAPA and what they have is "engine assembly lube with moly graphite" or "Lubriplate no. 105 motor assembly grease".
I think what I want is the engine assembly lube with moly graphite, is this correct? Nothing specifically says "moly cam lube".
Sorry for being a DA, just want make sure I get the right thing. Thanks Guys!
I think what I want is the engine assembly lube with moly graphite, is this correct? Nothing specifically says "moly cam lube".
Sorry for being a DA, just want make sure I get the right thing. Thanks Guys!
01-31-2007, 02:42 PM
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
About this time last year I was jawboning with a good-ol'-boy fellow racer who runs an engine shop about this topic. I was also asking if I should remove the inner valve springs for the cam break-in. He walked over to his bench, opened a drawer, and handed me a packet of ARP thread lube. "I've been using this for years, and have never removed the center spring and I've never wiped out a single cam lobe."
Moly is the key. I've also heard people sing the virtues of GM EOS Oil Additive (I think that's what it's called, off the top of my head). Crane has a break-in oil additive as well. And, use a petroleum-based diesel engine oil for the break-in (a diesel synthetic is a good idea for use after the cam break-in) because diesel oils have the anti-wear additives that have been removed from ILSAC GF-4 rated oils for emissions reasons (for latest model cars, which all have roller lifters).
Moly is the key. I've also heard people sing the virtues of GM EOS Oil Additive (I think that's what it's called, off the top of my head). Crane has a break-in oil additive as well. And, use a petroleum-based diesel engine oil for the break-in (a diesel synthetic is a good idea for use after the cam break-in) because diesel oils have the anti-wear additives that have been removed from ILSAC GF-4 rated oils for emissions reasons (for latest model cars, which all have roller lifters).
01-31-2007, 05:17 PM
#3
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Just use the grease that comes in the box with the cam 
You shouldn't have to buy extra. This is also your best bet for warantee usage.
ARP thread lube did feel VERY similar to the lunati/crane lube I bought for cams. I think it says on the box not to use it for that though
But the stuff that came with my compxe is red like strawberry jam, very similar to Clevite's bearing guard. (aka bearing jam).
I wiped out my lunati cam, and not my comp. Go figure.
You shouldn't have to buy extra. This is also your best bet for warantee usage.
ARP thread lube did feel VERY similar to the lunati/crane lube I bought for cams. I think it says on the box not to use it for that though
But the stuff that came with my compxe is red like strawberry jam, very similar to Clevite's bearing guard. (aka bearing jam).I wiped out my lunati cam, and not my comp. Go figure.
02-02-2007, 05:35 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 Iroc & 88 Firecird & 86 Camaro
Engine: 350 TPI & 305 TBI & 305 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
If its a roller cam then you can put just 30w oil on it and it will be fine. However I use the lube that comes with the cam.
02-03-2007, 06:31 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 Iroc & 88 Firecird & 86 Camaro
Engine: 350 TPI & 305 TBI & 305 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah I think that High Tech Gm or another magazine did an article on this.It was called when good cams go bad.Anyway the test results showed that if you have a flat tappet cam rotella oil is the way to go.
02-03-2007, 08:40 PM
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 & 87 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 & PG
Axle/Gears: 28spline 4.10 & KTRE 12 bolt
I was told that Shell Rotella no longer has the additives in it's newest blend of oil. Has anyone heard about this as I am ready to install my flat tappet cam again after wiping out a lobe after 4,000 miles. Cam was broken in with the Shell oil.
Thanks Frank
Thanks Frank
Trending Topics
02-03-2007, 11:14 PM
#8
Supreme Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,974
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: not the best not the worst
i am a marine mechanic and i put shell rotella in every new diesel i install infact volvo penta will not warranty the motor if you dont use shell oil but they dont tell you that until after the motor has cooked it self
02-03-2007, 11:21 PM
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hou. TX
Posts: 5,538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
I used the red "stuff" supplied, so if it fails i will let you know, if i can easily fix the nock the engine recieved after 50 miles.
02-05-2007, 06:52 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunny LaCrosse FL
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: LG4 feedback controlled 350
Transmission: used to be T5 now T56
ZONES89RS you just installed an xe cam? Something started knocking after 50 miles?
This is a flat tappet, hydro cam.
Thanks for all the replies guys. The reason I asked was because I heard the moly stuff was far superior to the red stuff.
Anyone else know anything about Rotella being a different blend, w/o the zinc I guess?
This is a flat tappet, hydro cam.
Thanks for all the replies guys. The reason I asked was because I heard the moly stuff was far superior to the red stuff.
Anyone else know anything about Rotella being a different blend, w/o the zinc I guess?
02-05-2007, 08:27 AM
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,123
Received 1,688 Likes
on
1,283 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
I heard
Call Comp, and see what they say.
Doesn't matter what anybody here says: if the cam goes flat and Comp won't warranty it because you didn't follow THEIR instructions, you're fornicated.
02-05-2007, 08:39 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: loxahatchee fla
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-05-2007, 10:41 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: York County Va
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: 350, aluminum heads, carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 10 bolt, 3.42:1
i'm in the middle of my engine build and i have a pack of the arp moly thread lube five7kid is talking about and it does specify that you can use it as an engine assembly lube. personally that, moly lube, "red jam" cam lube, or any engine assembly lube would do the trick. i would'nt use only motor oil for start up on a new or even used cam. check out my motor pics under PARTS!!!!!!!!! in the engine tech section and don't forget to leave a comment, thanks and good luck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hotrodboba400
Firebirds for Sale
3
12-10-2019 07:07 PM
Night rider327
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
0
09-02-2015 04:17 AM
