jaredi

I understand how to set valve lash but the question I have is in regards to the hydraulic lifters. The engine has been sitting for a few months, and I'm getting ready to install it in my IROC. Problem is that the guy I bought it from took the roller rockers off of it and sold them to his friend separately. So I got some roller rockers and am ready to install them.

Question: Do I need to create oil pressure to pump the lifters up or what? I wouldn't think I'd be able to just set them to zero lash and crank it would I? I won't be able to check them by ear with the engine running because I will only have open headers until I take it to the exhaust shop. What do I do? The only thing I could think of was to set them with some lash, crank it over, back them off giving them some more lash, crank it over until it stops taking up the slack and then set it to zero lash and give it preload, take it have the exhaust fabbed and then set them by ear. The exhaust shop is about 12 miles from my house.

It sounds like a PITA but its the only thing I can think of so far.

Thanks,
Jared

Randy82WS7

you dont need them to be pumped full of oil no

you need to tighten tem to zero lash plus one full turn

thats it

real simple

the plungers inside the lifters will be at the top of their bores in the lifters with zero lash or less

when you tighten them down zero lash plus one full turn it puts the plungers inside the lifters to about the center of the bores inside the lifters

you kow when they are at zero lash when the tips of the rockers just barely contact the valve stem tips


the lifter plungers will still be all the way up


regardless of whatever oil may or may not be inside the lifters

F-Body Demon

iTrader: (1)

What he said

SpitotRs305

the lifters should be thoroughly cleaned and soaked in the oil that will be run in the engine before hand i wouldnt go 1 full turn at start up or even after it just isnt worth it 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash at most... they can be readjusted later if you think they are still to loose but chasing poor compression on startup will be a pain in the ***

jaredi

OK I was under the impression that the lifters bled down and that proper oil pressure was needed to get them fully extended (thus everyone's advice to adjust them while running the engine).

Soaking them in oil will cost me a set of intake manifold gaskets and the trouble of yanking it. Is it mandatory to do this or will they fill quickly? I plan on turning the engine over with the starter a bit to build some oil pressure before I try to fire it, will that supply the lifters? I really don't want to have to yank the intake...

Thanks for the responses guys

327???

if you can build pressure before you start it then you can set them and not look back. crank it with the starter until you see oil coming out of the pushrods(the rockers have to be semi tight for this to happen) then set them to 1/4 past zero lash.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Don't bother prelubing them. Take the valve covers off and pour oil over the rockers, and down the pushrods. That'll at least get your lifters wet.

Set the lash using the EOIC method. I use a half turn, 1/4 will work, 1 full turn is a bit much IMHO.

This is a very common situation, nothing to fret about, don't over think it. Just button it up and drive it!

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

I like compcams way of setting lash when the engine's not running. I still set final lash with the engine running but not because of "pumping up".
I agree with Sonix. I believe a full turn is a bit much. I was leary of preloading mine at 1/2 turn due to my tight quench.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

If you don't mind pulling the distributor out too much, you could always do that and use an oil pump priming tool with an electric drill to get plenty of oil up through the lifters. You can also make a priming tool out of an old distributor if you have one lying around. Just grind all the teeth off the gear at the bottom, and strip all the stuff off the top of the shaft so you can attach a drill chuck to it. I also ground the top of the shaft into a triangle shape on the one I made to keep the chuck from slipping.

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

I did that. Burned up a drill too. 30w break-in oil is really tough on drills.

jaredi

Well I adjusted them last night dry. I put a ratchet on the crank and did each cylinder individually, exhaust would open, then intake, then both would fall and be on the base circle were I would adjust them. I spun the crank over separately for each cylinder just to be sure. I put anywhere between 3/8 and 1/2 turn on all of them. Hope everything works.

Thanks for the input guys.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

So you adjusted both intake and exhaust on a cylinder at once? Well that's not right, and you'll be a bit off. They aren't really on their base circle at the same time. It should run though, and you can reset them later.

jaredi

They have to be both on their base circle on the compression stroke though right? exhaust opens, starts to close, intake opens, exhaust is fully closed, then intake fully closes. They both have to be completely closed to build compression on the up stroke right? I adjusted them while the engine was on the compression stroke of each cylinder individually, as in I watched the exhaust valve open and then close and the intake open and then close, and after the intake fully closed I adjusted both exhaust and intake valve for that one cylinder, figuring that they were both fully closed for the compression stroke. I couldn't imagine that not working so I did it that way. Required alot of spinning the crank but oh well the motor was on the floor so...

If I need to do it a different way I will but I just thought that sounded like a pretty safe way to be sure the valves were both closed.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

I hear ya. I also use straight 30w for initial break-in. That's why I used a 1/2" Makita drill, and even that drill got pretty warm and bogged down considerably once the oil started pumping good.

naterman35

In my autos class my teacher told us to go 3/4... Just to chime in there. Im not sure if it would be 3/4 or less but thats how i learned.

naterman35

Now i not sure of the order here. I knwo if anyone has access to ALLDATA then you can get which ones to do when. Btu i was tought to put Cylinder#1 on TDC Compression... Then you can lash certian valves... I forget which ones and i belive its diffrent for diffrent engien i did it on a 350.. And i know this is wrong but oh well. Bear with me... E=exhaust I=intake.. so like 1I,2E,5E, 7I, 8E... Somehitng like that... Im sure if you look online youll be abel to find the actuall right infromaiton. Im just giving an idea for you of how i was tought to do it.

jaredi

Yea I had read that process but I didn't want to take the chance that with this lumpy cam that one f the valves I'd be adjusting wouldn't be all the way closed. I think that process was to minimize having to spin the crank. I could have done it wrong but I haven't been told why just yet...

Cobra289

Hi,
According Chevrolet Shop manual of a Camaro 1987 the adjusting should be like has been seed here zero lash and than 1/2 turn.

With the engine in the No. 1 firing position, the following valves can be adjusted:
V8: Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8
V8: Intake 1, 2, 5, 7
Crank the engine 1 full revolution until the marks are again in alignment. This is the No. 6 firing position. The following valves can now be adjusted:
V8: Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7
V8: Intake 3, 4, 6, 8

I did the last week the pre-lubrication with a drill machine. (poor baby)
In 2 seconds the pressure went to 40 psi and in 5 seconds to 70 psi but the drill machine could held more than 300 rev's.
Because I want to see the oil at the rockers it took other 20 minutes to get all socked in oil and the drill machine did smoke like hell.
It was a moment that I did stop because I couldn't held on my hand due to the heat. (Poor baby it lost the confidence and 50% of the life, but is was a cheap one) This would be impossible with a cordless machine!!!!!!!!!!!

Check the pictures at my site, you will see the smoke and the pressure gauge indicating the 70 psi.

Regards,
Cobra289

jaredi

Cobra289, just looked at your website, your car is awesome.

naterman35

Yessir this was the way i was talking.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

That method is fine for a weak stock cam with basically no overlap. The method of doing intake and exhaust when on the firing stroke is the same type of thing.
Once you have a bigger cam with some duration to it, then you have to be sure the cam is on the base circle. The base circle is much smaller for a wider duration cam. EOIC makes sure of this.
Also doing it with the engine running will get the job done, but it makes more of a mess.

Cobra289

I don't get e-mail notifications, check the profile and is OK??????////

Jaredi
Thanks for the comments, we do our best to get a nice car.

Sonix,
You are right when you choose a big cam the 0.05" lift will start early and it is advisable to check this point when you select such cam's
But I did post just the general setup for a standard or moderate cam.
As you know the hydraulic roller cam's has also an steeper ramp and is indeed dangerous in combination with a big duration.

Perhaps it is better to say the next:

A. Turn the engine over until the No. 1 cylinder exhaust lifter
just starts to move up. At this point, install adjusting nut on
the intake rocker to “zero lash”. Turn 1/2 turn

B. Turn the engine over again until the intake lifter just stops
coming down. Install the adjusting nut on the exhaust
rocker arm and adjust to "zero lash". Turn 1/2 turn

Regards,
Cobra289

jaredi

I am not getting e-mail notifications either and I'm not sure why. I have my profile set up for it.

Anyways, I was under the impression that setting lash while the cylinder was on compression stroke was ok because the overlap of an aftermarket lumpy cam occurs between exhaust and intake lobes where both valves are open at the same time, but, even on the most radical of grinds once the compression stroke is well underway, neither valve should open again until the end of the power stroke.

Why is it not advisable to find the compression stroke of the cylinder and set lash there?

Basically, I went directly to step B in Cobra289's directions and set both intake and exhaust lash because as I understand it, neither valve is going to open until nearly a whole turn of the crank so I should be very far away from the ramps of either lobe... Then I read that I did it wrong but still don't know exactly what was wrong about it...