jos385536

I have a 92 camaro rs with a 305 tbi and auto trans. I just checked the valves and amazingly they are right now. The new problem is: the car still wont start. I crank it and it turns over fast for 3 seconds then it slows down to half speed for another 3 seconds or so and then it backfires. The timing is set correctly (which i set to the valve train) and it still back fires but wont sputter or act like it will crank. I've already spent $600+ and put in 50 + hours of work into the car and can't afford to put any more money into this motor. I've done the head gasket, water pump, fuel pump, thermostat, battery, plugs, and wires. I'm probably going to have to put a new starter in now because it won't crank over any more after the last time it back fired. Please Help.

Supervisor42

Go over it one more time and verify the firing order of the wires on the distributor. It sounds like some wires are crossed or on the wrong tower on the cap (backfiring, cranking speed slows).

jos385536

I checked and rechecked the firing order on the ignition. I first used a chilton reference for the firing order then went by what is molded into the intake for the firing order and they matched up. I've been checking some mitchell certification manuals A8 (Engine Performance) and A1 (Engine Repair) and it's leading me to belive the timing chain is shot but i'm not too sure. It's one of the few things i haven't inspected yet and it's the last thing I can think of to check before turning my eye to the ECM computer or one of the sensors connected to it. The thing is with the cranking it sounds like the first three seconds it has no compression and I can turn the Harmonic balancer with no resistance for about 5 degrees or so before it gets hard to turn without a socket and cheater bar. I got the car for free from my mom after she blew the head gasket and let it sit for 2 years and she is not much help as far as the mechanical history of the car.

Supervisor42

You can verify the cam timing (timing chain) easily.
Just pull the driver's side valve cover.
Bar the engine over and watch as the #1 exhaust valve (closest to the front) closes.
It will be just closed and the intake (next one back) just beginning to open as the timing mark passes 0° (top dead center) on the timing tab.
EDIT:
p.s. If the cam is right and it has been sitting for 2 years it is going to need one tablespoon of engine oil in each of the sparkplug holes to get the compression up enough to start...

jos385536

I'll have to do that tomarrow but in the meantime is there any other possibilties for the way the motor is doing what it is doing and not starting mechanically? Also after the second time i got the backfire the starter wont work and the check engine light won't come on when I turn the key to on. I'm not very good at automotive electronics but am trying to learn them at this moment. Would a bad starter cause this to happen or did i fry something?

Supervisor42

Check battery and cable connections.
Charge the battery and use the headlights to test it.
Headlights should come on and stay on with key on.

jos385536

I did this and still no change in the way it cranks. The Throttle Position sensor checked out ok, I've got fuel and spark, but still can't get it to crank. I've asked this before and no one has answered it before so I'll ask again, Is it possible that my valves are overtightened? I seated them with one full turn after no lash to seat them like the chilton manual says but i've been told that I should only go 1/2 a turn to seat. Who is correct?

PS I solved my starter problem. The ground wires on the back of the block were'nt connected for the ECM.

Supervisor42

Hell, back them all off 1½ turns and start the engine. It'll make some noise but won't hurt a thing. A lot of people set valves while the engine is running. This is where they start.
If you're not sure about what zero lash feels like, check the FAQs and do a for "adjust valves" to get the procedure.