meyer30

iTrader: (2)

I pulled my motor to replace the rings due to a lack of compression in a couple of the cylinders. I blew some oil in them did another comp check and they shot up from 80psi to 150 psi. So I started to take it apart and noticed that there was fresh coolant under the valve covres and I had oil and coolant mixed together through all of my pcv hoses and in the throttle body but none in the oil pan. But the oil did smell of fuel. Well I've been thinking about it and was wondering if my heads being shaved have anything to do with this. The shop shaved them 6 thousands, he did this due to the metal ring in the head gasket leaving some sort of mark or something. What type of systems do you get when the intake doesn't seal in the valley? Nothing has been done to the intake, I'm using the edelbrock hi-flo tpi base.

pandin

.006 is about three human hairs wide not a lot.

usually when installing intakes, the coolant holes are sealed with some rtv.

Everything needs to be real clean.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's not likely to do a whole lot of good, by itself.

Usually the reason the rings leak is because the cyl walls are scored, or because the pistons were used and somebody "cleaned" (translation from Trailerish: "gouged out") the ring grooves.

Check everything VERY VERY carefully. Make sure there's no scratches or other damage to the ring lands of the pistons, and no vertical scratches in the cyl walls. Look at the surface of the rings; if there's places that you can see they didn't touch the cyl walls, then you have a prayer of fixing it by replacing them. If the rings were touching all the way around, then just changing them out, by themselves, has a pretty small chance of making any improvement.

I cannot IMAGINE, in my wildest dreams, how a motor could have 80psi on a compression tester dry and go to 150 wet; without also having SO MUCH blowby, that there wasn't oil spewing out of every orifice it has, along with it REEKING of exhaust.

The whole situation doesn't make any sense.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

There was lots of blow-by. The exhaust smelled extremly rich. Not right away tho. It would run good for about a min then it would go nuts, sputter, smell awful then shut off. I put brand new plugs on and after a few min of running they were coverd in black, most of them were dry a couple were wet. Everything in the motor is brand new. I've been trying to get it to run for almost a year now with no luck. I'm debating the idea of a crate motor and just sell off the heads and internals of this motor. I just can't seem to get it to run right. The guy at the machine shop said he would clean and rehone the walls and assemble the bottom end to make sure everything checks out. Cause I am out of ideas. I've built motors before but nothing really hi performance and it just isn't working out for some reason.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

REBUILD!!!! you probably messed up the ring lands when you pulled your pistons anyways. so spend the extra cash bore that bad boy and rebuild it into something u can be proud of....

87nosirocz

sound like a cracked head or bad head gasket not rings, there would be no resen for the engane to shut off dew to a few cylenders low on compresion. acording to All Data 100psi is normal and if they are with in 80% of each other the compesion is fine, the water in the oil sounds like a headgasket or cracked head.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I just installed the new head gaskets and I just had the heads ported at the shop, rebuilding is what I'll be doing I've spent almost 5 grand on the fing motor already and it's nothing but a paper weight so far. The weird thing is I didn't see any coolant in the oil pan. The plenum and runners were soaked in oil and coolant mixed.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I just pulled the head and this is what I see The heads were just ported and cleaned, basically brand new. THis is from about 10min of off and on running.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Ahhhhh.... a little history sometimes makes all the difference in the world.

Why were you doing a compression test in the first place? That is, what led you to think that you needed to do that?

When you say "lots of blowby", how much?

How were the intake gaskets?

What's the rest of the motor; the cam, particularly?

Why the head studs? (Even if you didn't have coolant in the oil NOW, you certainly would have ended up with it eventually) Head studs are not good for the street, at least not unless fairly large amounts of nitrous or boost are involved.

When you tuned it on the dyno, what did the A/F ratio end up at? Where did the ideal ignition timing turn out to be?

The kind of problems I'm seeing and hearing, don't have ANYTHING to do with whether the motor came off a crate, out of the back of a pickup, or you picked it up yourself at the machine shop. They look entirely like TUNING. Wouldn't matter WHERE the motor came from, you'd have the same problems and need the same thing.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I did a compression test due to the smoke coming out of my throttle body and valve covers and I kept blowing out the seal on the rear of the intake manifold. The intake gaskets looked normal. I only put them on last week. They didn't come off nice and clean so it's hard to tell. I used head studs cause I planned on supercharging this motor, what's the down fall on using head studs?
I'm using compcams XFI 268 HR
The tuning well that's another story. WHen I originally put the motor in I tried using Craig Moates equip. to tune the computer, but do to lack of time I could never get the hang of it. And it ran fairly rich. So due to a leaking oil pan gasket I removed the motor replaced gaskets had the heads worked on and replaced a broken roller lifter. I had a chip made for me, which I know will not be perfect but at least close enough to drive it, and after I got the motor back in and running I took it for a short drive and when I got into it a little bit the rear seal on the intake would blow out so after I noticed all of the oil and coolant mixing and clogging up the pcv valve and hoses I decided to do a compression check which leads me to now. I'm pretty sure the rings didn't seal due to the motor running so rich the first time, I just want to make sure that is all that's wrong before I go putting more money into a hopeless project.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

They pretty much ALWAYS leak. At least, every time I've used them, or seen anyone else who does, they do. Which is not a tremendously big deal in an alcohol race car with only water in the cooling system and where the oil gets changed every weekend anyway; but isn't real friendly in a street motor with anti-freeze in it, since AF turns oil into some kind of sludge that doesn't lubricate.

Reason I asked about the intake gasket, is because if your heads have exhaust crossover passages, then the gaskets have exhaust on one side and crankcase on the other.

Likewise, exhaust valve guides that leak, also have exhaust on one side and crankcase on the other.

Running too rich will cause all sorts of terrible malfunctions. You might very well have had SO MUCH fuel in the engine, that it was leaking past the rings in liquid form and STILL burning in the crankcase. I'm betting that's your whole problem, right there; is the tuning. The motor looks like it was absolutely drowning in fuel.

Try dropping your injector size by about 25%. Just that ONE change, when you put it back together.

Guest

Hard to see because its a small picture but from what I can see the surface on the heads doesnt look real promising. Almost looks like someone hit it with some sandpaper. I wonder if they're flat...

87nosirocz

if your leaking with head studs theres somthing else wrong i have ben running arp head studs on mine for ever and had no isuses. the heads were not torq properly or you have a cracked head. as for the roller lifter being bad i hope you replaced the cam or you have a flat cam lob do to the lifter. the rich mix would wash the cylender wall but if you still had 100 psi compression then thats not were the plowby was coming from. i serously would check your heads for cracks.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

As far as the injectors go there only the yellow tops, can't really go much smaller than that I don't think. I will have the heads checked for cracks. And the lifter broke on the top portion. THe little washer that holds them together fell apart. I believe my main problem was the tuning, just running way too rich. I'll have to have it towed to OKC to have a dyno tune once I get the motor redone.

mnorton

If it were just an A/F ratio issue all the piston tops should look similar. You have two that are soot black and two that are clean. I'd be thinking that you are burning oil in the black ones. Maybe the heads have oil leak issues....?

ljnowell

I thin more than likely the problem lies in the rings. The cause is another story. Running real rich and washing rings is possilbe, but it seems like it would be present on all cylinders. The only real thing to do though, with things as they are, is to check the bores, make sure everythings ok, give it a light hone, and use new rings. Get the heads checked out, just to be sure. Then get it tuned, right away.