welchk85

ok so i was having problems with oil pressure being at 0 and over heated problem also was running super rough so i changed the knock sensor,alternator,battery,oil pressure sending unit all the vac lines pcv valve, distrib cap,rotor, and coil.

then it ran really good for about 15 minutes then threw a code 35, and 44 once it got to operating temp and it would pour black smoke out of the back. so i did the easiest which is the o2 sensor so i changed that yesterday and it runs great starts right up running strong no more smoke, but once i put it in gear (seems worst in reverse) it starts hesitating almost like a gurgling it will drive just fine but when im stopped it will surge and idle down surge and idle down etc etc.. but it will stall most of time. the timing was just set exactly at manufacturer specs, and i shouldnt have a vaccum leak what else could cause this? im definatly not a mechanic by any means more of a back yard tinkerer and this is my DD and i live in ny were there is alot of stops and gos so this isnt a problem i can just deal with please help i need this car asap....thanks

oh and its a 1990 chevy camaro rs with a 3.1 v6 and the 700r4 transmission.

welchk85

anyone?

racethesunlive

it sounds like your engine is almost stalling out but the ecu is repeatedly trying to save it (the rpm surging and dipping). try adjusting your idle air and increasing your idle rpms a bit and see if that helps clear it up.

If you keep your foot lightly on the gas while holding the brake can you keep the car from stalling out?

welchk85

yeah the only time it does it is when its in gear if i give it a little bit of gas while sitting there it will keep it from stalling. how exactly would i go about adjusting the idle air and increasing the idle rpms? sorry im kinda more into doing body work im not much of a mechanic.

racethesunlive

If your looking at the engine from the front... on the right hand side of the throttle body theres a small screw that stops the throttle from falling back too far. If you tighten that screw further it'll give you a higher idle rpm. I'd give it a few turns and then see if you can hold a steady rpm without stalling.

idleairscrew.jpg?t=1274459232
(not my engine)

the correct way of adjusting it is here Idle air adjustment tech article

welchk85

oh ok thanks man i will give that a try when i get home from work and i will let you know.

Goany

lol nvm

welchk85

so those two bolts that have redlines going to them i just take those out and pull the iac off and just douch it with carb cleaner till its clean allow to dry for a hour or so and then reconnect? should i disconnect the battery?

racethesunlive

nope you won't have to d/c the battery just hold the iac upside-down(spindle facing down), so that you don't get any carb cleaner in where the iac motor is

good luck!

welchk85

thanks i will post on how it goes

welchk85

thanks guys its running great i think its almost ready to hit the NY traffic lol. i really douched out the IAC valve with carb cleaner then i noticed the inside of were that goes was nasty as hell so i sprayed the crap out of that to waited about an hour and went for a ride drives great now there is a little hesitation but i know that is happening because the catylitic converter is the original and the car has been in constant use since new. lol but yeah its running great thanks for the help guys i appreciate it.

Goany

lol your welcome i guess i totally looked up the wrong motor my bad man but they are all the same thank god glad u got it fixed sorry i mislead u a little xD