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Motor build Spec and question.

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Old 10-19-2010, 11:21 AM
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 355
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Motor build Spec and question.

Here it goes I have a gen1 350 and have started to compile the parts needed to do a top end rebuild. The whole motor was just rebuilt stock/spec less than 10,000 miles ago. Ill first give you a list of specs and parts I have purchased.

Brodix IK200
64cc
2.02,1.6
max lift .575
spring dia. 1.430

Comp cams XR294HR hydro roller retro
294/300
lift .540/.564

Howards 91160 Hyd-roller lifters

Summit aluminum full roller rockers 1.5 ratio

Now my expected goal with this setup is 450-480 crank at around 10-10.5:1 running 93oct. I am not sure if I want to go with Hyper-eutectic or forged pistons, I am already above my budget price and I am really trying to keep cost down. Would I be able to throw a small 100 shot at the Hyper's nothing more or would I have to go forged?

How much HP can my stock rods handle. Would I "have" to upgrade or could I re-use them?

Id like to mention again that I am over budget so cost at this point Is a concern. Id like to keep what I have now and only throw In pistons preferably Hyper-eutectic if possible.
Old 10-19-2010, 05:35 PM
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Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 355" TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Motor build Spec and question.

I think your power estimate is a little high but if thats the range you looking for its time to dump the stock rods for durability. The same thing goes for the pistons I would be leaning to forged.
Old 10-19-2010, 05:51 PM
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Car: 1983 Z28
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Re: Motor build Spec and question.

I don't think that is too high, seems about right at the crank, now rwhp that is different. But that should be right at it.
Old 10-19-2010, 07:57 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 355
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Motor build Spec and question.

Yea as far as comp cams techs are concerned as well as some other build I have done in the shop that crank estimate is right on the money. My motor the way it sits now dyno'd 304whp with a larger flat tappet cam on my last car before I sold it. I highly doubt that new alum 200cc heads and a hyd-roller cam setup with a bigger carb and intake mani will make less than 100 more crank hp.
Old 10-19-2010, 08:00 PM
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Re: Motor build Spec and question.

I would love to do forged but money is tight, If I have to do new rods I guess I have to but id rather not go forged If I dont have to. I would wait longer to buy parts but I cant have the car sitting in the driveway for many months its something that will have to be attacked within a month or so.
Old 10-19-2010, 08:31 PM
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Re: Motor build Spec and question.

Hyper-pistons if tuned correctly should be able to give you a 150-shot. If you ever plan on going SC/PC or turbo, then I would spend the money now and put in forged.

What are your plans with this motor, and it sounds like a great build.
Old 10-20-2010, 08:43 PM
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Re: Motor build Spec and question.

I'd be more concerned about the rod BOLTS than the rods themselves. The BOLTS are the weak link NOT the rods.

So I'd invest in a set of ARP rod bolts and have them installed, INCLUDING HAVING THE RODS RE-SIZED. With that, you'll be good to go.

Also, I'd steer clear of Hyper-U's, in spite of what the ads say. Go forged or keep the ones you have. Not enough "Bang for the Buck" in buying Hyper-U's. The benefit gained (I doubt if they'll be any) isn't justified once you factor in all the costs involved (don't forget re-balancing).

Jake
Old 10-20-2010, 10:23 PM
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Re: Motor build Spec and question.

^ I agree, except if you are boring it .30 over, or something, I would buy hyper pistons instead of cast. If you are keeping it standard bore then don't worry about it, but don't expect to run a lot of nitrous, just like you would if you ran hypers instead of forged.
Old 10-20-2010, 11:10 PM
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Re: Motor build Spec and question.

You can get some scat rods with 7/16" bolts for couple hundred bucks. LIke said above, rod bolts is really where the problem is. That cam is pretty big so you will be doing some high rpm. Need to have a good rod bolt for sure. New I beams wouldnt be a bad choice either.

Forged is great for durability and nitrous use, and more forgiving to a bad tune. hyper stuff can do your goals just fine too but got to have the nitrous tune dead nuts.
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