Moe87

Never done this before but i want to replace all the studs in my block. They are rusty as hell and some have broken off.

Ive seen a guide here: http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html

They mention Easy Out which are the hardened bits to grip in the bolt and break it free, but i was wondering how hard on a scale of 1 to 10 is replacing the studs doing to be?

1 being microwave dinner easy and 10 being only the hand of God will fix this.

1st engine is a 350 TPI L98. Second engine is the volvo redblock i4 (B230FT i believe). I've got a can of PB blaster ready if needed. i may try it on the volvo engine first as it's cheaper to replace.

Apeiron

Depending on how badly seized the stud is, maybe a 9.5. Getting a broken extractor out after it breaks off in the stud is at least a 50.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

If the stud is sticking out of the hole at all, its MUCH easier to weld a nut on the end and back it out with a wrench. Anyone who has broken one of those Easy Outs off will tell you that.

If its broken below the top of the hole, just drill it out and retap it. Or drill it out with a slightly smaller drill bit and sometimes you can use a pick or awl to either back the threads out or scrape them out of the hole's threads.

What studs did you break anyhow? I'm not aware of any bolt studs in a 350 block. I'll admit I know nothing about the volvo block though.

Moe87

the studs in the block the exhaust manifolds mount to. so far only the furthest back passenger side is broken flush with the block. the rest are still attached with bolts holding the manifolds on. With the a/c system removed you can get your whole arm down there to drill it.

the volvo redblock's stud is broken off flush with the block on the farthest right side if looking from passenger side tire. Again, just removing the MAF, and hose to the turbo and radiator hose, its easy to access.

See attached pictures for reference (not my engines, look for yellow circles)

note: you can get 500bhp from a near stock volvo redblock :/ at less than half the weight of our v8's and 2x fuel economy...

Cadaver_Puncher

I have a 3.1 v6 I got used, the previous owner snapped at least 2 studs per side flush with the exhaust manifold. Being as I've had 2 major neck surgeries and facing a third ... how difficult would these be to fix or does anyone know a good exhaust shop close to Brockton Massachusetts. The one shop I asked, didn't want to get involved so they said $800 per side, I told them to share what they were smoking cause they got some good ****.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I've had more luck with a hammer and a small awl type thing i have. Just a really sharp pointed awl with a rounded yet flat tip on it. Just hammer it reverse direction around the outside edge...

Exhaust studs are going to be a PITA though... worst case scenario you can pull the head and run it to a machine shop and let them deal with it.

Cadaver_Puncher

Damn it.
Lol didnt really feel like having the car down for a couple days.
Looks like a head swap would be the perfect thing now since they will be off anyways.
( 3.4 or 3500 decisions decisions )

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Apeiron hit it right on the head. Don't break off an EZ out, in other words, DON'T USE EZ-OUTS!

Cadaver_Puncher

head swap it is lol

redneckjoe

from your original post, you mention the studs are rusty. if you go to stainless hardware, be careful, it breaks very easy. maybe grade 2 at best?

MD83Z

reverse twist dill bits.....or tap with pointed chisel...week of pb blaster....anything but ez-outs. I have told myself never to use them again, just to snap one off last weekend.... It snapped so fast all i could do was just say no.

Cadaver_Puncher

Titanium or whatever wolverine's claws were made of. Don't want them b I t c h e s breaking again.

lol