Camatruder

The car starts fine and idles good but a little high (+ 2000 cold, + 1100 normal temperature). TPS at 0.56 V, new IAC valve. Vacuum is steady but low at idle (14"), but can't find any leak at all. Timing is set correctly (10° BTDC). Compression test = OK.
I have a lot of white smoke and even clear water coming out of the exhaust. It gets a little better when at normal temperature but it never goes away completely. Outside temperature doesn't seem to matter (40 to 60° F). I had a mysterious coolant leak underneath the firewall (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...lant-leak.html), but that went away without finding any leaks.
There is no steam under the hood.
The oil looks good, the pink coolant is new and is not mixing with the oil. Didn't have the engine running much like this so i can't tell wheater the coolant level in the expansion box has dropped or not.
The gas is sitting in the tank for over a year, but that's not so bad i think.
Is the head gasket blown and how can i tell for sure without having to take half the engine apart?

m16a2r

Well u can alwaus het that head gasket leak tester to know for sure

TreeFiddy

That or check compression.

Might be a better place to start, could have picked up water, lost volatility etc.

Assume it gets pretty cold there in Belgium, are you letting it warm up completely?

Camatruder

Compressiontest was OK.
I let it warm up till the the fan starts working. Cooling system seems to be working fine.
Right now its freezing (20°F), but the same problem occured at 55°F (hope i got the conversion right, Celsius here)
I'll put some fresh gas in for starters. Is there any way i can drain bottemed water in the tank?

Edwardgp

In the past I have pulled the high pressure hose apart in the engine compartment and put an extension hose on the end. Then jumped the fuel pump module and pumped all the bad stuff into a gas can.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Check the accuracy of your tach. Those wavy pointer things they put in the dash of these cars are well known to fail, almost always by reading WAY higher than reality; they aren't "instruments", regardless of the name of the panel they're mounted in; they're only TRIM, intended to enhance the "image" of "sportiness" or whatever. In other words, eye candy. Very unreliable.

1100 RPM idle would be enough to drive alot of cars down the road at 30 mph. Highly doubtful that a reading like that is a reality.

Advance your ignition timing SLIGHTLY and see what happens. Put it back if it doesn't help.

For getting water out of the tank, when the tank is as near empty as you dare, add a few liters of denatured alcohol, or if you can get it, ether. It'll run REALLY TERRIBLE with that in there, but itshould at least mix the water into the fuel and let it get pumped out, and then you can do whatever is necessary based on whatever it does on your next tank of gasoline.

Camatruder

Ok, i drained the old gas, put in new, same problem. Its not overheating though, but i think the coolant level is dropping slightly.

I dont have a RPM meter to chech the RPM but i can tell by ear that its idlling too high. When i push hard on the throttle lever (like trying to close the butterfly valve a bit more), the rpm's drop a little. Is there a problem with the butterfly valve? I removed the air intake duct and noticed that the butterly valve doesn't seal off the intake completely, but i'm guessing thats normal.

Can i rule out a head gasket failure because of a satisfying compression test?
Is it possible for coolant to get into the intake and if so how? It could explain the low vacuum, the high idle and offcourse the white smoke.

TreeFiddy

A good compression test would rule out a head gasket. Your symptoms might all be explained by an intake gasket leak.

Camatruder

Also the great amount of white smoke?
Edit : sorry stupid question, offcourse it can.