pontiacdog

I'm replacing my valve guide seals for the first time and I'm wondering if I ordered the wrong type of seals.

I got my Fel-pro seal set from rockauto and it seems that the exhaust valve seal won't fit in the original cylinder head. The black rubber part inside the seal just broke when I tried to force it into place with a socket and a mallet.

Here's what my exhaust seals looks like:
https://static.ylilauta.org/files/u1...timage.php.jpg

I still haven't tried if the intake seals fit but I'm guessing they are the right ones since they resemble the original seal that I took out. The exhaust valves had a different looking "umbrella type" seal.

Another question: do I add o-rings to both intake and exhaust valves and do they go on the second or first groove in the valve stem?
And what are the transparent tubes for?

pontiacdog

Is the umbrella type seal actually supposed to jump up and down with the valve stem?

And apparently some people don't install them at all?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I had a similar problem when installing the exhaust valve seals with 'standard' Felpro stuff before too. It only happened on the exhaust valves and this was a reman engine ( so it's possible that the original valve guides were replaced. ) The intake valves have a rubber seal so they were fine.



A few people recommended that I use intake seals on the exhaust side. I decided to use "umbrella" seals instead and they were installed without a problem.

Yes,... the umbrella type seals are supposed to "ride" up and down on the valve.

The "O" ring seals should be used on all the valves. The "O" ring should be installed on the LOWEST ridge,.... the upper ridge is what the 2 locking key fits in. the clear sleeve is supposed to be placed over the valve when installing the "O" rings so that the "O" rings don't get gouged while installing them. They are a PITA IMO and I usually just apply engine oil to the "O" ring and slip them over the valves without using the clear sleeve.

I hope this helps !

SouthSide2

I compress the spring and retainer . Then slip the O ring on. Then the keepers it's easy to tear the O ring with retainer if you put the O ring on first. I learned the hard way.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Agreed !!

pontiacdog

Thanks for the replies.

I installed the umbrella seal in the 2nd groove to replace the o-ring because it seemed that the seal would stay in place there.
Also, I didn't install o-rings on the intake valves either because I simply can't compress the spring enough to reach the 2nd groove.
Is this bad?
My universal valve spring compressor just slips off and makes a mess if I try to compress the spring too much.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

That's ALL bad.

The umbrella seal should sit on the neck of the valve. When the valve travels all the way "down" the umbrella seal will set itself into the proper position.

With no "O" rings installed the oil will travel thru the gap and engine will smoke while running.

Your saving some $$ by doing the work yourself. Go to Sears and buy a good valve spring compressor so you can do the job right.

You must compress retainer and spring together, then set them over the valve, then install the "O" ring, then install the keepers, then remove the spring compressor, X16. ( I use a very small screwdriver to help CAREFULLY push the pre-oiled "O" rings in place in the LOWEST groove. )

pontiacdog

Thanks! Luckily I only assembled 2 valves.
I will redo them tomorrow. :-)

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

FYI:

It's also a good idea to count the "O" rings before starting. The last pack I bought ended up with an extra O ring. Once I realized I had '1 too many' I had already installed 6 or 7 valves. At first I thought that I had forgotten to install an O ring so they all came back off,....

I didn't forget anything, there was an extra O-Ring !!

pontiacdog

I ended up ordering a Comp Cams 5606 spring compressor since it seems like a high-end tool.
Hope it's good.