SilverChicken

iTrader: (1)

I'm so close to building a new 383 for the 'Bird that I can taste the iron dust and smell the assembly lube! I think I've done a solid job of picking parts and as I've planned this build for quite a while I've wanted to use Profiler 195cc heads with standard valves all along. I've done what reading is available on these heads but not sure how many rodders actually use them and I wonder about their quality now as I've seen guys complain about valve seats that are too narrow, bad valve seats from the factory, and tight valve guides, the first and latter repeatedly. The one guy who had the most trouble also reported garbage customer service that was horribly slow at fixing the problem. I don't want to spend a grand on a set of bare cylinder heads (price went way up), outfit them with known quality valvetrain parts (not the lowest priced unknown brand or quality stuff they offer for $125) for another $400 and then have to have hundreds of dollars in machine work done to make them work. I might as well buy AFR's at that price point but I'm also trying to keep from exceeding $4500-5000 to build this engine.

Here's what I've plan to use the Profiler heads (195/70cc) on:
-4-bolt vortec 350 block .030" over
-SCAT 935050L pro comp cast steel lightweight crankshaft
-SCAT 5.7" pro comp I-beams
-Either Wiseco professional series or Probe FPS forged aluminum pistons (suggestions? forged even necessary?)
-Howard's Cams 180325-10 (.525/.530 225/233@.050 110) OR
Howard's 180885-10 (.525/.525. 225/225 @.050 110) very similar cams one being dual pattern and the other single. I don't know if there'd be any performance difference. All other valvetrain parts will be matching Howard's components with 1.5:1 rockers and gm replacement lifters.
-Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap IM
-QFT Slayer 750cfm VS carburetor (if I can go smaller without leaving much on the table I will)
-Compression will be 10.1:1 to 10.47:1 depending on pistons.
Car already has Dyno Don headers, Hooker 3" catback and cutout, 3:42 gears, TH350 w/ 2200 stall and might have the weight down around 3300lbs now. Trying to keep my shift points around 6-6200rpm.

So what do y'all truly know about these heads, if they require much finish work, and then how about the rest of the combination I have set out for them?

big hammer

Supposedly they make great power and have the thickest castings in the business

HINKSON AUTO

I have heard all good about those castings.

Do yourself a favor and go to 6.0 rods more advantages better rod angle, lighter piston and a crank for 6.0 rods will internally balance. From what I have seen on the dyno longer rod engines will have a flatter torque curve and do carry the HP longer over a short rod engine.

Most of those Vortec blocks 880 casting have short cylinders with 5.7 rods there is a lot of piston hanging out of the bottom of the bore.

I have used quite a few sets of the Pro true pistons wit no problems and they can be bought with rings for around 425.00

Those cams are on the small side for what your building.

SilverChicken

iTrader: (1)

Good to know about the late model roller blocks. I was only choosing the 5.7" rods because most pistons I know of for a 3.75" stroke and 6" rods have to have a support rail for the oil ring. I don't know how a piston designed as such holds up over the long haul. Seven hundred dollar Mahle pistons with the metric rings are the only ones for 6" rods that don't require a rail and that price is unnecessary for this build.
I know the cams are a little on the small side but I figured and hoped a 225-233* cam would peak on this engine around 5500rpm so I could shift when I'd like to. Also from all my reading it seems that while they can do it for a while stock gm style lifters don't like much over .353" lobe lift. I could use 1.6:1 rockers and I may discuss that with Howard's before ordering to see if their recommended springs can handle that lift. The next size up cam is .373" lobe lift with 237/237 @.050 or 237/245@.050 but I think those 2 choices may want more rpm than I'm building for. I'm looking for good, reliable power and torque, I don't need 500+up and I'd think maybe this build will net around 430-440hp and 460-475tq...plenty for this car with its skinny 255mm tires and stock 10-bolt.
About the heads, I know the castings are supposed to be pretty good but it was other parts that I've seen complained about. There's a seller in the classified section trying to sell a set he pulled off after 30 miles and that seems fishy to me. Who does that? I might be interested but they're just 185cc's and he still wants $900 for them. I don't think a small port head like that would feed a 383 to 6k.

big hammer

Yeah I got the 195 profilers on my 355. Not too much at all.

Also, I believe all the SBC profilers use the same casting. So the smaller port ones are just thicker. That way if you ever want to go bigger you can just port them out with no worries

HINKSON AUTO

Support rails cause zero problems I have them in engines that have run for years and years.

Every body cries about them but there is not data to support their claims. If there was any issues with support rings that would never sell a piston that would require them.

Mahle is my piston of choice with the 1MM 1MM 2MM ring pack.

Go with the 6.0 rods your engine will be much happier !!

The AG intake is your biggest restrictor nice street manors

Here is a post I did a month ago.

SilverChicken

iTrader: (1)

Good info! I sent an email to Howard's questioning about a few things like running their link bar lifters in my OE roller block and if there'd be any interference with the taller lifter bores. If not I can run one of their higher lift, longer duration cams without fearing the OE style lifters dropping out of the dog bones and opening the gates of hell on my camshaft. I had been looking at a QFS 680cfm carb too but wasn't sure how well it'd feed the engine to 6k rpm. From your experience it sounds like it would be fine plus more responsive unless that 650 of yours was modded extensively. Did you ever sell it? Now some of the last questions I'm left with are single or dual pattern and 110 or 108 LSA (I need some vacuum so may stay with the 110). I keep seeing that single pattern cams make more power but my shorty headers and somewhat small exhaust may mandate the extra exhaust duration, not sure, that's why I'm asking you folks.

HINKSON AUTO

Most roller lifters today are for the taller lifter bores. Make sure you getting lifters with a .750 not a .700 wheel and know what your lifter bore clearance is for the best results.