Another Dart 406
#1
Another Dart 406
So after learning of a deep cut in my number 1 cylinder bore and it cant be resleeve (no surprise considering it was bored 40 over), I decided to go Dart 406. I looked around locally and online and found good reviews on TriStar Dart SHP 406. I am upgrading to the Scat forged crank, my AFR 195s and Stealth Ram are with Lloyd Elliot from elliotportworks and he will also be grinding me a custom bump stick.
Talking with both Ben and Chad at TriStar, (and Lloyd), I'll be setting up the motor for 11.5:1 compression. Before I scrapped the 385, I was certain that motor was at 10.5 compression and Lloyd spec'd out a 231/239 cam (similar to the Lunati but with more lift) that I have seen with his LE2 heads that put down a touch over 410 horsepower and average of 395 ft lbs torque at the wheels. My goal is 520 to 550 horsepower at the crank with a tad less torque, hopefully matching to my Edge 3500 stall. With that in mind, I am anxious to see what he specs for me, how it'll turn out on the dyno and the road/track. Been a long 10 year hiatus.
Talking with both Ben and Chad at TriStar, (and Lloyd), I'll be setting up the motor for 11.5:1 compression. Before I scrapped the 385, I was certain that motor was at 10.5 compression and Lloyd spec'd out a 231/239 cam (similar to the Lunati but with more lift) that I have seen with his LE2 heads that put down a touch over 410 horsepower and average of 395 ft lbs torque at the wheels. My goal is 520 to 550 horsepower at the crank with a tad less torque, hopefully matching to my Edge 3500 stall. With that in mind, I am anxious to see what he specs for me, how it'll turn out on the dyno and the road/track. Been a long 10 year hiatus.
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,816
Received 280 Likes
on
218 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: Another Dart 406
I have a Dart SHP 406 sbc build by Nyes Racing Engines (Indiana) with Dart Pro1 215 heads and callies crank/rods, comp cam, forged mahle pistons, rings gapped for nitrous, holley sniper efi. I installed it in February of this year and just hit 1,000 miles on it this past weekend. The engine dynoed at 531 hp and 513 tq, when it had the MSD distributor controlling the timing advance. Since then I have made the conversion to allow the holley sniper to control the timing and I am getting somewhat acquainted with the tuning tables and datalog software. The engine is a ton of fun and does make driving the car a freakin' blast.
good luck with your project. If it turns out like mine, you will enjoy it.
Oh and I also have a 9.5" Edge Racing converter 3,400 stall. Moser 12 bolt with 3.55 trutrack
If you want info abotu my build, check out some of my recent build threads:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...g-install.html
and
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...rior-next.html
good luck with your project. If it turns out like mine, you will enjoy it.
Oh and I also have a 9.5" Edge Racing converter 3,400 stall. Moser 12 bolt with 3.55 trutrack
If you want info abotu my build, check out some of my recent build threads:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...g-install.html
and
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...rior-next.html
#3
Re: Another Dart 406
I have a Dart SHP 406 sbc build by Nyes Racing Engines (Indiana) with Dart Pro1 215 heads and callies crank/rods, comp cam, forged mahle pistons, rings gapped for nitrous, holley sniper efi. I installed it in February of this year and just hit 1,000 miles on it this past weekend. The engine dynoed at 531 hp and 513 tq, when it had the MSD distributor controlling the timing advance. Since then I have made the conversion to allow the holley sniper to control the timing and I am getting somewhat acquainted with the tuning tables and datalog software. The engine is a ton of fun and does make driving the car a freakin' blast.
good luck with your project. If it turns out like mine, you will enjoy it.
Oh and I also have a 9.5" Edge Racing converter 3,400 stall. Moser 12 bolt with 3.55 trutrack
If you want info abotu my build, check out some of my recent build threads:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...g-install.html
and
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...rior-next.html
good luck with your project. If it turns out like mine, you will enjoy it.
Oh and I also have a 9.5" Edge Racing converter 3,400 stall. Moser 12 bolt with 3.55 trutrack
If you want info abotu my build, check out some of my recent build threads:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...g-install.html
and
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...rior-next.html
Actually I started following your build and it was a deciding factor on what block/route to go with! Definitely took some inspiration from you. and we both have red camaros. I do love how clean your engine bay is, but don't think I can get it THAT clean with my keeping fuel injection. I'm a bit green eyed haha.
I did see your track times only put you around 108 mph or so. I thought that engine dyno'd at 530 HP at the crank and similar for torque? The 700R4, Edge converter and accessories couldn't have sucked up THAT much power. Or are you still tuning it?
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,816
Received 280 Likes
on
218 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: Another Dart 406
So yeah I was somewhat disappointed during my shakedown session at the track. But really that’s all it was. The shakedown session. With that many components being changed over the winter and during the build I really just wanted to make oh good test hit on everything. Also that was before I had the sniper controlling the timing. I had fiddled with the distributor myself and adjusted timing but didn’t actually think I fully found the sweet spot. The major thing that led to my lower speeds and slower times that day was my shifting and shift points. I was definitely early shifting in the mid to high 5000 range. Or that’s what I thought. Since then I have learned my oem tachometer is off by about 300 rpm at 5,000 rpm. It reads higher than the engine actually is revving. So it turns out I was shifting much much to soon, probably in the low 5,000 range overall. Street tires nitto555 didn’t help much and since then I’ve bought some MT drag radials.
as luck would have it in New Jersey just finally passed an order allowing race tracks to re-open as of two days ago. Therefore this weekend I plan on going for a test and tune and getting another crack at it. I did order a recalibrated Tachometer With a 6-7,000 redline from Cajun tax supply but unfortunately it might not make it here in time for my test and tune this weekend So I’ll have to still use my oem one and shift when it reads around 6,800 which would be around 6,400 in reality
also I have been working with the tune and the tuner remotely to get the engine running really well. It obviously did great and put down great numbers on the Dyno but when I got it to my house I did fiddle with the distributor and might have screwed it up slightly. The car certainly does feel faster at this point than it did initially when I first Install the engine back in March. That’s seat of the pants feel. But I’m really hoping the weather cooperates for this weekend so I can get up there and run a high 11 around 118 or 120 miles an hour. And remember this is in a full blown Street car set up, 3,440 weight, 3.55 gears etc.
Edit:
so I just went back and looked at my datalogs for the shakedown passes back in march. I am laughing at myself now after 2 months of learning the car, learning efi stuff, datalogs, and just driving, I can see how poorly I did. Like mentioned above, shifting WAYYY too early. also, on none of the runs was my foot to the floor the whole time. my TPS lines are embarrassing, but thats I guess how I gotta learn. I mean, i did go from a low revving 305 tpi motor to a high revving engine so I was a bit unsettled.
I just wrote this little chart after looking at my runs. (no datalog for run 3) this is run 4...(which resulted in a 13.039 at 111.50 mph) red line is rpm, green it throttle position. I removed all the other colored liens that don't help me illustrate my intent here. case in point, why was I shifting so early, and why did I let off the throttle mid way through 3rd gear!??! silly
as luck would have it in New Jersey just finally passed an order allowing race tracks to re-open as of two days ago. Therefore this weekend I plan on going for a test and tune and getting another crack at it. I did order a recalibrated Tachometer With a 6-7,000 redline from Cajun tax supply but unfortunately it might not make it here in time for my test and tune this weekend So I’ll have to still use my oem one and shift when it reads around 6,800 which would be around 6,400 in reality
also I have been working with the tune and the tuner remotely to get the engine running really well. It obviously did great and put down great numbers on the Dyno but when I got it to my house I did fiddle with the distributor and might have screwed it up slightly. The car certainly does feel faster at this point than it did initially when I first Install the engine back in March. That’s seat of the pants feel. But I’m really hoping the weather cooperates for this weekend so I can get up there and run a high 11 around 118 or 120 miles an hour. And remember this is in a full blown Street car set up, 3,440 weight, 3.55 gears etc.
Edit:
so I just went back and looked at my datalogs for the shakedown passes back in march. I am laughing at myself now after 2 months of learning the car, learning efi stuff, datalogs, and just driving, I can see how poorly I did. Like mentioned above, shifting WAYYY too early. also, on none of the runs was my foot to the floor the whole time. my TPS lines are embarrassing, but thats I guess how I gotta learn. I mean, i did go from a low revving 305 tpi motor to a high revving engine so I was a bit unsettled.
I just wrote this little chart after looking at my runs. (no datalog for run 3) this is run 4...(which resulted in a 13.039 at 111.50 mph) red line is rpm, green it throttle position. I removed all the other colored liens that don't help me illustrate my intent here. case in point, why was I shifting so early, and why did I let off the throttle mid way through 3rd gear!??! silly
Last edited by IROCZman15; 06-03-2020 at 10:27 PM.
#5
Re: Another Dart 406
So yeah I was somewhat disappointed during my shakedown session at the track. But really that’s all it was. The shakedown session. With that many components being changed over the winter and during the build I really just wanted to make oh good test hit on everything. Also that was before I had the sniper controlling the timing. I had fiddled with the distributor myself and adjusted timing but didn’t actually think I fully found the sweet spot. The major thing that led to my lower speeds and slower times that day was my shifting and shift points. I was definitely early shifting in the mid to high 5000 range. Or that’s what I thought. Since then I have learned my oem tachometer is off by about 300 rpm at 5,000 rpm. It reads higher than the engine actually is revving. So it turns out I was shifting much much to soon, probably in the low 5,000 range overall. Street tires nitto555 didn’t help much and since then I’ve bought some MT drag radials.
as luck would have it in New Jersey just finally passed an order allowing race tracks to re-open as of two days ago. Therefore this weekend I plan on going for a test and tune and getting another crack at it. I did order a recalibrated Tachometer With a 6-7,000 redline from Cajun tax supply but unfortunately it might not make it here in time for my test and tune this weekend So I’ll have to still use my oem one and shift when it reads around 6,800 which would be around 6,400 in reality
also I have been working with the tune and the tuner remotely to get the engine running really well. It obviously did great and put down great numbers on the Dyno but when I got it to my house I did fiddle with the distributor and might have screwed it up slightly. The car certainly does feel faster at this point than it did initially when I first Install the engine back in March. That’s seat of the pants feel. But I’m really hoping the weather cooperates for this weekend so I can get up there and run a high 11 around 118 or 120 miles an hour. And remember this is in a full blown Street car set up, 3,440 weight, 3.55 gears etc.
Edit:
so I just went back and looked at my datalogs for the shakedown passes back in march. I am laughing at myself now after 2 months of learning the car, learning efi stuff, datalogs, and just driving, I can see how poorly I did. Like mentioned above, shifting WAYYY too early. also, on none of the runs was my foot to the floor the whole time. my TPS lines are embarrassing, but thats I guess how I gotta learn. I mean, i did go from a low revving 305 tpi motor to a high revving engine so I was a bit unsettled.
I just wrote this little chart after looking at my runs. (no datalog for run 3) this is run 4... red line is rpm, green it throttle position. I removed all the other colored liens that don't help me illustrate my intent here. case in point, why was I shifting so early, and why did I let off the throttle mid way through 3rd gear!??! silly
as luck would have it in New Jersey just finally passed an order allowing race tracks to re-open as of two days ago. Therefore this weekend I plan on going for a test and tune and getting another crack at it. I did order a recalibrated Tachometer With a 6-7,000 redline from Cajun tax supply but unfortunately it might not make it here in time for my test and tune this weekend So I’ll have to still use my oem one and shift when it reads around 6,800 which would be around 6,400 in reality
also I have been working with the tune and the tuner remotely to get the engine running really well. It obviously did great and put down great numbers on the Dyno but when I got it to my house I did fiddle with the distributor and might have screwed it up slightly. The car certainly does feel faster at this point than it did initially when I first Install the engine back in March. That’s seat of the pants feel. But I’m really hoping the weather cooperates for this weekend so I can get up there and run a high 11 around 118 or 120 miles an hour. And remember this is in a full blown Street car set up, 3,440 weight, 3.55 gears etc.
Edit:
so I just went back and looked at my datalogs for the shakedown passes back in march. I am laughing at myself now after 2 months of learning the car, learning efi stuff, datalogs, and just driving, I can see how poorly I did. Like mentioned above, shifting WAYYY too early. also, on none of the runs was my foot to the floor the whole time. my TPS lines are embarrassing, but thats I guess how I gotta learn. I mean, i did go from a low revving 305 tpi motor to a high revving engine so I was a bit unsettled.
I just wrote this little chart after looking at my runs. (no datalog for run 3) this is run 4... red line is rpm, green it throttle position. I removed all the other colored liens that don't help me illustrate my intent here. case in point, why was I shifting so early, and why did I let off the throttle mid way through 3rd gear!??! silly
I get off the phone with LLoyd and he thinks the 231/239 will serve me well. I asked him about upping the duration like the Howard cam that came with the Tristat longblock/complete engine (the one you currently have I assume? I gave him the specs but he said he thinks his will be just as good. I trust him.
I told him I wanted to up the compression from 10.5 to 11 to give a boost tovpower...maybe 10 to 15 to the wheels from 10.5. I also discussed how the heads will perform, not just flow, in comparison to the AFR 210 heads which seem to be a default for the 400-406s. He said the 195s will perform just as good if not slightly better.
Last edited by 89formula350b2l; 06-03-2020 at 08:51 PM.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,816
Received 280 Likes
on
218 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: Another Dart 406
live and learn man. I'm sure my shakedown pass will be disappointing. It's been since 2008 since I have been to the track.....
I get off the phone with LLoyd and he thinks the 231/239 will serve me well. I asked him about upping the duration like the Howard cam that came with the Tristat longblock/complete engine (the one you currently have I assume? I gave him the specs but he said he thinks his will be just as good. I trust him.
I told him I wanted to up the compression from 10.5 to 11 to give a boost tovpower...maybe 10 to 15 to the wheels from 10.5. I also discussed how the heads will perform, not just flow, in comparison to the AFR 210 heads which seem to be a default for the 400-406s. He said the 195s will perform just as good if not slightly better.
I get off the phone with LLoyd and he thinks the 231/239 will serve me well. I asked him about upping the duration like the Howard cam that came with the Tristat longblock/complete engine (the one you currently have I assume? I gave him the specs but he said he thinks his will be just as good. I trust him.
I told him I wanted to up the compression from 10.5 to 11 to give a boost tovpower...maybe 10 to 15 to the wheels from 10.5. I also discussed how the heads will perform, not just flow, in comparison to the AFR 210 heads which seem to be a default for the 400-406s. He said the 195s will perform just as good if not slightly better.
nice. I am certainly not knowledgeable enough to know much about heads and flow (yet) so I will have to say I just don't know how to guide you in parts selection. I am learning as I go, and this is my first "hopped up engine" of my lifetime so I don't have experience knowing about the array of cylinder heads, changes in compression ratios, cam grinds, etc. There are certainly a lot guys on this board who do know this stuff really well, and hopefully they will chime in for ya... But if you have a good relationship with your engine builder and know a good amount yourself...that is a major step in the right direction. My block was the Dart SHP which is what it looks like TriStar engines uses. But everything else was spec'd out by Pat at Nyes Racing.
- I just checked their website for the first time in a month and it looks like tehy totally redid the whole website, full blown different layout and everything, but there are specs on the engines there too. I went with teh callies crank and rods as an upgrade from the Eagle stuff since I do plan on doing a 200 nitrous shot. Also, cool discovery I just learned when viewing their new website, is they used the photo of my actual engine on their small block engine's page. that photo on the site is a photo of the actual engine that was sent to my house and is in the car! cool! https://nyesracingengines.com/406-sm...mp-gas-engine/
I wish I had more knowledge to help ya, but hopefully more people will write in tech stuff for ya. I'll keep an eye on this thread. good luck with the project !
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post