Jalobe

Hi guys. My clapped out l03 is on its way out with 162k, and a minor case of spark knock. I started running premium/super to see if that would temporarily fix the problem, which it did. I don't have the knowledge or experience (or tools) to properly diagnose certain problems. My mechanic gave me a ballpark quote of around 5k (not a real quote, he just stated it during a conversation). I'm wondering if this is about correct, as I expected a little lower (stock part replacement). However I do understand there are extra costs since I'm not doing certain things, like taking out the engine by itself and bringing it to him. I don't doubt my mechanic, but from all the research I did online I figured it was something more related to carbon buildup or something more minor, so I was really surprised to hear him say, "You won't get rid of the detonation without a rebuild."

That brings me to, what do I do now. I have read into the 350 swap, and all things considered this is clearly the obvious choice when it comes to ease of install, although I won't be doing it myself I figure that might save me something on labor. I don't want to rebuild the 305, at least certainly not for 5 thousand, or even maybe 4 thousand, unless I was going to be building it up. At that point might as well just get a 350.

I'm not looking to make my car into a racecar, and it will be years before I really want to do power adders on this car. For the sake of saving myself money where I can. Should I look for good junked motors? Where would I start with that, I don't know why but I had hard time finding websites with those engines. (Also as a TBI car will a 350 still be an easy swap, or should I look into TPI/Carb) While looking at crate engines most engines that were not remanufactured engines had a lot more horsepower, and would require work to my cars backend, something I had not planned on doing within this year.

TLR I know none of the options are going to be cheap. I just don't know what option I should really explore to be honest. I'm okay with spending up to 5k (not on a 305), but I'd prefer to save as much as possible, as I just want it to work for now, not go super fast. I would like this car to be my daily during the summer for the next few years at least, if I can keep her running. And there are other things that I need to attend to on my car as well, like tires and paint (in due time).

If rebuilding with a better quote elsewhere is the cheapest, I'm fine with exploring that option, since I would most likely keep the original engine, and possibly perform a bigger engine swap in the future like the LS instead. Since this isn't my actual daily I'm not pressured into doing anything just yet.

RedLeader289

iTrader: (2)

An engine swap in these cars is not a technically difficult task, it's fairly simple all things considered, but it is a work intensive task. You need a good set of tools, knowledge, and extra hands.

If you go with a standard replacement 350 (195-290 hp) your trans and rear end will be fine. Heck, if you go with a hotter motor those will still be fine (I'm running ~410-420 hp through a t-5 and a 9-bolt rear end).

First step is figure out what you're comfortable with doing, then make a budget. A new crate engine (with no intake, etc.) will run 2,200+ depending on where you get it from. And there is alot more that you'll need beyond that.

Jalobe

Thanks for the information. I will probably start on a compilation of all the pieces that I am going to need to make this happen. After a bit more research I do not want to rebuild this engine, for the amount I am going to spend it will be better to start looking for a 350 among other necessities.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

I stayed with the TBI when I rebuilt my 350. Upgraded + bore intake and TBI, 350 sensors, custom chip..etc On a mild build your TBI will be fine, it works for me.The car is plenty strong and can still knock down 23mpg on hwy trips.

topduarte

iTrader: (8)

Where are u located?

tajefe

Just a thought but might try the Seafoam or similar product trick and watch it smoke while it burns off some carbon build up. I like to run Mystery oil in the engine a couple quarts in place of oil(don't overfill of course) for a few miles before an oil change as well. Just Google these products and you'll get plenty of videos I'm sure. Will be people say not worth it but for a few bucks and before dropping the $$$$ on a swap why not?

Jalobe

Sussex County New Jersey.

I also read through the forums there was a good chance of carbon buildup and was actually going to be dropping the car off at my mechanic to take a look tomorrow, along with fixing one or two minor issues. However when I said I wanted to remove the detonation on the phone, he said it would require a rebuild. Just the other day I went out to the grocery store and back to my house. It is around a 16 minute trip and there were no problems during the trip, but I let it idle for about 6 minutes as my friend and I were going to go back out. And my coolant reservoir was completely filled far past the hot full line, and it was boiling. After I turned the car off and let it cool down the coolant just sat there, all of a sudden maybe 20 minutes later the coolant suddenly all rushed back into the car. I noticed I was low on oil though after and there was no oil registering on my dip stick. So I've put in two quarts and ran it to the grocery store one more time to see if it would be fine and it has. Basically I'm burning oil at least or have a decent leak not sure, but I had an oil change done about a year ago. It certainly hasn't been even been 3000 miles but I'm not sure if oil would get stale in that time or what not. I'm going to have my mechanic really tell me how the engine looks soon, but if it really is done I'm probably going to replace it.

I agree I might as well try to get the carbon off as I don't feel any major loss of power yet but we shall see. Appreciate the responses.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

Based on what you have said so far, I would not yet be convinced that a motor swap is necessary. It may ultimately come to that, but if it were me, I would be ruling out a bunch of other things before settling on a motor swap.

Detonation could be from carbon buildup, but that is less likely with a fuel injected motor unless it’s running really rich or an oil burner.

When is the last time the spark plugs/wires/cap and rotor were replaced?

Is the ignition timing set correctly? That could definitely cause spark knock.

Engine running too hot can also cause knock. Is your temp gauge working and what temp does it run? Does the electric cooling fan come on? The thermal fan switch often fails and the fan won’t turn on.

Is the check engine light on?

Your comments about the coolant reservoir and oil level could be of concern and I would be keeping an eye on that. The coolant reservoir symptoms could be from running too hot, or could be a head gasket problem. I would also top off the oil and keep an eye on consumption. Do you see any light brown goo on the dipstick or underneath the oil fill cap? That would be a sign of coolant in the oil.

So, I don’t buy your mechanic’s statement that detonation means you need a new motor. Other reasons maybe, but not because of detonation.

Jalobe

I've had him do work on the car before but never a major look into the engine that is for certain so I'm sure he will let me know when he takes it into the shop in a few days. However even if he does not, although I am not a mechanic, I have the opinion that after being driven with no major signs or problems (besides the recent coolant problem) for the last 6 months on and off that since the engine isn't suffering from major power loss, besides the detonation it isn't ready for all new parts just yet.

I have not done the plugs/wires/cap since having the car. Got it around around 2 years ago, and I've put on about 2700 miles or so since I got it. I honestly have neglected the checking the carfax so that is a good question, but the person who had the car before me kept it in good running condition and basically gave me the car for 1000 since they no longer had the ability to drive. I have to scrounge up the papers that listed the work he had done but I'm sure I could use a tune up.

I have not messed with the timing so that is something that I would have to look into.

My tach and engine oil pressure gauges aren't working, but I do believe my temperature gauge works. It normally gets to around 140 to 150 but I rarely take it for longer drives. Since changing to premium I have had one occasion of spark knock but it was during a much longer drive than the car is used too. However I don't believe I have heating problems. I will also have to check the cooling fan.

The check engine light only comes on after detonation. Other wise no I have not seen the light come on.

I did not see any goo on the dipstick but I do believe there was some on the underneath of the fill cap. I will check tomorrow after work but I'm fairly certain there was a clearly noticeable amount of brown goo on the inside of the oil fill cap. Which in that case yeah the gasket might be about done. There is also a considerable amount of smoke from the exhaust on start up, it is cold as hell right now. But i believe there was some smoke still even when it was warm. However once it warms up i dont believe there is smoke coming from the exhaust.

Also I will say If I drive the car say 20 min and let it sit for a few hours, but not overnight it has troubles staying on once started. I have to give it gas, which it seems to hesitate taking, I could hold the gas down and it will take gas for a sec, then stop, then it almost dies and I reapply throttle and it takes a little bit more gas and and then stops receiving gas and almost dies, I have to repeat this for about 4 minutes or so to get it to stay on.

I will have to see what he says, but I really don't know what he knows about the engine since it's been awhile since I have taken it in for any problems as I was uncertain if I was going to be keeping this 3rd gen or get another.

F-BIRD'88

Check the EGR system.. Blocked EGR passages or a dead EGR valve will create detonation.
If the engine is not worn out why rebuild it.
Start with a basic compression test.
As long as the engine is not wounded it din't need a rebuild..
The EGR passages in the intake manifold may be plugged with csrbon.

Jalobe

One last note about problems with the car. There is ahigh chance to stall when using the gas in reverse, as I let off throttle it stalls. If I do not use gas or very lightly use the throttle it does not stall. It seems to stall even faster in reverse after having been warmed up to temp.

downsouthboy

This right here

downsouthboy

THis is the first thing i would look at. i agree. if it isn't really worn out, don't rebuild it

gta90

iTrader: (1)

You say you don't have tools, but you can rent many, particularly expensive specialty ones, from Autozone for free. Just pay the deposit.

I would research as much as you can on the problem (you already found a great resource), symptoms and how to diagnose. And get yourself some basic tools... at least a couple hundred worth of the basics. Don't just assume you know what the problem is and start replacing things unless you enjoy being wasteful. Avoid paying others to solve your problems as much as you can.

You are on the forum. It is a good first step. Read up all you can. Knowledge is power.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Coolant bottles don't boil in my limited experience. Obviously the radiator cap bypass is toast, replace the cap immediately. But the appearance of boiling also might be sign of head gasket failure (gases from combustion). If the overflow bottle filled then engine did get very hot. Whether you have damage from overheat is yet to be determined. Either way it appears you have a cooling system problem that would need to be addressed.

It's not acceptable to not have working gauges. You need to be able to monitor vitals so get that worked out.

I think doing a water fog into the intake will break up a lot of carbon. And the auto store has spray bottles of chemical concoctions just for that purpose. I'll give you a spray can free if you happen to be near me. I didn't use it after getting scared it would ruin sensors on my truck.

If engine is on its last leg (and I'm not saying it is) then I agree that doing a 350 will net you some more fun without even spending hardly an extra dime in the long run. And honestly if this car is just a toy then you don't need any excuse to upgrade engines if that is what you want to do. Sometimes we're just looking for an excuse.... when what we really want is to play.

george88gta

while we're on this conversation if he was to put a 350 in what is everybody recommending nowadays as the best setup 350 for tpi

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

Many recommendations out there that will work. I personally like new GM crate motors. A good choice for something close to a stock replacement would be the GM L31 long block. Will need the Scoggin Dickey lower TPI base since it has Vortec heads. Eliminate the EGR through the tune, or use headers with an external EGR pipe like the TPI Corvettes.