Slade1

I think I'll try a new approach to winterizing this year for my car.. por-15. Think 14 years and winter and you get the idea of the condition. I tried rustproofing every year since I've owned the car but when they salt roads here, they go nuts, so I don't think a rust proofing is worth it. I probably have a good inch layer of zinc along the insides of my car now, but the underside was what I hoped to help and it didn't really...

Yeah I'm nuts doing this, but remember its a lowly 305 TBI, that for all intents and purposes serves as my only car. Besides, if it works for salt and snow, think rain and dirt will stand a chance?

Sinoed

I didn't use Por-15 but I used something else. I sanded off the main portions of rust and then brushed on a rust inhibitor. Its relatively expensive (about $13.00) for a small bottle (about 400ml?) but it works fantastic. Its made by Plasti-kote (sp?) and is in a black bottle with a yellow label. Just thinking if Por-15 doesn't work then they might have something in their lineup that does.

Sinoed

Just one other thought, how tough is it to sandblast the frame and undercarriage? Mine isn't in too bad of shape but I'd love to do it to bring it right up to spec. Does it take a lot of time & effort and does it involve taking practically everything apart again? :P

Slade1

The neat thing about por-15 is that you don't have to sandblast it, although a fun idea maybe to park my car in Arizona and come back in a month or two...

Usually if you want a good job done sandblasting, you have to strip the car of everything and see the frame for what it is, else you're just doing a half *** job on it.

Odds are there are some good areas on cars with a bit of corrosion here or there. It's not like the water from the rain here is pure, nor the road clear of all minerals. If you've wet driven it or exposed it to water, water has a funny way of going after spots you can't see...

I've seen cars restored before, completely stripped to the bone and although you thought it was mint, when the sandblaster got done with it, it was like swiss cheese. Areas of our cars that will take a beating is the rear lights area, wheel wells, firewall, gfx and doors and surrounding...

I would have done it a year ago when I had the engine out, but I had not much cash on me for the whole job.

ninety1TAgta

POR-15 is another part of my winter plan. Its a pretty good price for what your getting. I wouldnt put it on just like the directions say though rovic. I think it comes with a pre-paint stripper, but I would sand off what you can first. It says you dont need to, but I fail to see how a ceramic hard undercoating can stick to any loose surface rust etc. Plus you should get all your old rust proofing off of there first... Tell us how it turns out if you do it.
greg

automorph

POR15 is great. It actually soaks into the metal. Very messy though, make sure you wear gloves. The gloss finish looks nice as well, sort of like glass.

Steve89GTA

Hey slade
I just ordered two cans of por-15 and received it yesterday. Contact the distributor out in Montreal (or was it quebec)...they are VERY helpful.

Can't wait to give this $hit a try when I pull the trans out this winter...

OLDYELLR

My '85 was originally Ziebarted and I also store it in the winter. However, whenever I'm under the car, I check for areas where the Ziebart is ruptured or gone and spray them with Rust Check I get at Crappy Tire. This is a pink oily stuff, probably as good as the better proprietary rust inhibiting oil sprays, like Krown. This winter I think I'll pull the seats and carpet and attack any surface rust I find. Where do you buy POR-15 other than at car shows?

Sinoed

You know it sounds like a good idea if it stops the rust.. but from the sounds of this stuff its mostly a surface application right? Once that stuff is on there how are you supposed to tell if the car is rusting underneath it or can you? Is there a remover or something available for that?

ninety1TAgta

I dont think its supposed to rust till its worn off unless its not prepared right before you put it on. But if it did rust underneath I would imagine it would just buble and crack like most other comparable products.
greg

George

I was thinking of doing the underside with this stuff at least where the subframes are going to cover the floor pan. However, would'nt you have to maybe steam clean the underside or use degreaser or something first to get the oil and grease off and then rough it some as well.

farm-kid/88camaro

So far i've got done from the front of my car to the rear axle with por-15. I had the engine and tranny out and front end suspension all apart so i decided it was now or never.

My car had previously been undercoated with that spray on crap. I had to remove all of this with scrapers and paint thinner, what a job this was. I scraped and cleaned for hours on end. After i got all of what i could off, i soaked everything down with a solvent for a while, then took a pressure washer underthere and went nuts.

After this i treated everything with their metal prep and then painted with the por-15 . End result: Im not a big fan of the gloss black, im not sure what i was thinking on that. Seems to be holding up well, but make sure you get a good coat on everything. I went over it twice and still have a couple of spots where i must have missed with a good coat as there is minimal surface rust.

Im dreading the time when i have to do from the axle back....dropping the gas tank and scraping off the rest of the undercoating crap. Hopefully i get to it this winter as it looks great when its done.

Good luck with your project

Eric2ndGen

Having used POR-15 on a number of parts/pieces/vehicles one thing that should be stressed here:

Nothing stops rust completely. The idea of POR-15 is to seal surfaces as best as possible to delay/contain electrolytic corrosion (i.e. moisture-initiated). If you paint it over a big rust spot- the rust will continue but at a slower pace. POR-15 works best "as-is" out of the can on clean metal.

If painting over rusty metal- be sure to use the "metal ready" stuff (it is basically a zinc phosphate)- it puts a coating of sacrificial zinc over the rust and delays its growth/expansion alot better once sealed by the POR-15 paint. It may triple the time it takes to complete the job- but long term I think it would be worth the effort. I figured this out the hard way after using POR-15 on body parts on 4 different vehicles without the metal ready and then on the last- just for the hell of it- I used it and it actually looks and "feels" more solid than plain POR-15 over rust.

KWF

Make sure you do it AFTER the track. If you drip that stuff on the track, you'll be booted out for sure

Slade1

Opps missed oldyeller's post, if you goto http://www1.bisinc.com/stevens/htdocs/

It's a store in Grimby Ontario, south of Hamilton.

They got everything

tanager11

Slade...how much was that stuff worth and how did it work out for ya...

Slade1

I haven't done it to my car yet, I just experimented with the stuff on a rusty piece of metal and left it outside. I'm gonna put some driveway salt on it and spray it with a hose and see what happens in the next week... so far it looks kinda neat... the stuff bonds to the rust on the surface (putting it on loose rust well, its kinda pointless to do that...)