L98IROCZ89

OK...

This has been frustrating for years.

Every now and then, I will stick the key and and try to start the car and all the lights and accessories will come on but as far as ignition goes... nothing. No cranking, no nothing. Then I try again 4, 5, or 6 times and it still doesnt work. Typically, I would come back 20 minutes later and it will work just fine. This leads me to believe that it is a VATS issue.

But now, it hasnt started in a couple weeks. Just nothing but lights and accessories. So now I'm not so sure about the VATS being the problem.

I know that you guys are going to throw out the possibility that it is a bad clutch switch, as I have a T56. It very well could be, but just know that this was still an intermitent problem even when I had the automatic.

Any ideas? This is really frustrating... and it looks like I might have to bite the bullett and take it to GM. I hate going to GM dealers for service, especially because my car is so heavily modified (nothing is orginal anymore) but I also don't know if my mechanic is going to want to tackel a problem possibly involves computer trouble (VATS), etc.

72LT1VETTE

Your signature says you have a remote started system. Have you tried it? Does it work?

L98IROCZ89

No. The remote starter is actually not in the car anymore. I need to take that out of the signature.

razor

Does the security light stay on when trying to crank??? I assume with those mods you do your own programming?? Have you tried to disable VATS in the bin file???? If not maybe do a search to disable VATS with a resistor. I think its as simple as measureing resistance in the pellet on your key and replacing that value with a resistor inline.

Morley

Whack the starter with a hammer a couple of times and try starting it.

Trickster

Put a new lock cylinder in there and you should be fine.

L98IROCZ89

It should be the starter.... I have a brand new mini starter in there. Further, I have been having this same problem even with the old starter. The new starter was put in with the new motor and trans... the battery, cables, alternator, etc were all changed as well.

Actually... it really couldn't be the starter if nothing happens when you turn the key right?

I dont know if the security light is on when the key is fully turned (aka. when you are trying to start it). I will have to look.

I think it is VATS or just loose ignition wires in the ignition cylinder or something to that extent... I must say, I know nothing about how that works tho so this is just a guess.

And to answer the question about programming... I do not make my own chips. Actually, I probably have a lot of power to be gained with tuning... but in relation to this, I do not have the equipment to burn a chip with the VATS disabled.

Trickster

If the wire is broken on the lock cylinder that is the first point in the VATS circuit. That is why I said to replace the lock cylinder. To test it, measure the resistance value of the pellet in the key as shown in the attached picture with a multimeter set to OHM's. Next look under the dash and disconnect the two white (maybe yellow depending on year) wires at the connector, Put the key in the lock cylinder in the "OFF" position and measure the resistance value of the key through the white (yellow) wires. If the value is the same your problem is elsewhere. If the value is different or you get no reading at all, your problem is in the lock cylinder.

Morley

No, that is exactly what happens when a starter has a dead spot in it or if the solenoid goes bad. It acts just like you are trying to start it in gear with an auto trans.... guages go through the self test, buzzers go off but nothing happens at the engine end.

jamesbob02

You could have the classic "hot start" problem where the starter solenoid heats up from being too close to the exhaust manifolds which results in high electrical resistance. I've had this problem on more than one thirdgen. Go to the tech articles section of the site and look for "Hot Start Cure" or something like that, and follow the directions to install a remote starter solenoid (away from exhaust heat). Worked like a charm for me, on two different cars.

tom3

First thing I'd do is hook a test light up to the S terminal on the starter and check for actual voltage at the solenoid. Easily could be a bad starter, or bad main cable to the starter, if you have voltage there.

bnoon

First thing I would check is all of the connections that needed repairs after the removal of the remote starter. I can't count the amount of times I had to fix other shop's messed up installations of these things. To many times they used the crimp on connectors and they loosen over time.

Next, check voltage at the switch box on the hot and cold sides.

Next thing I would check is for switched power at the starter relay as well as main hot wire at the starter itself.

Scott 88 GTA

I agree with bnoon, check the removal of the remote start system. Since your car has VATS, in order for the remote start to work they would have had to setup a relay wired to resistors to simulate the key in the ignition when the remote start is trying to crank. If this circuitry is still in the car, and has loose wires laying around it could be causing an intermittent problem.