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iTrader: (20)

my 88 ta runs like crap in the morning or when it has sat awhile. I have changed o2 sensor,cold start switch,maf,tps,new fuel pump,fuel filter,chip,plugs,wires,cap,rotor,coil, but when it hits about 180 it get alot better but not perfect! help this thing is killing me

vwdave

Coolant Temperature Sensor perhaps?

87TPI350KID

Yes, deffinately check that. Made a night and day difference on cold startups on mine.

upandcoming

iTrader: (20)

would that not throw a code

vwdave

Only if the computer knows its bad. The F-Body's OBD isnt exactly sophistocated.

87TPI350KID

my sensor was all gummed up and the wire connecting to the ecu(or whatever it goes to, not 100& sure) was half-burned, so it was connected not throwing a code, but quite useless. It kept the car COLD since it was sensing "coolant" heat (aka burning heat from the manifold)

It used to stumple badly for like 10 seconds on startup, now it starts almost like a new car.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

iac

Shagwell

clean your IAC passage/check or replace your coolant temp sensor - if the ECU thinks its warm/cold all the time, it'll really screw w/ the tune

upandcoming

iTrader: (20)

well I replaced the coolant temp. sensor. BIG help! It will now light up the tires. but it did not fix it. ordered a new IAC and throttle body gaskets.they shoud be here thursday. What should I use to clean the passages with?

upandcoming

iTrader: (20)

thought maybe it could also be the mat sensor or the egr? any suggestions or those

Shagwell

pull the vac hose going to the egr and plug it. go for a test drive/test start. That should tell you if your egr is screwy.

<<K-O>>

I seem to have a similar problem anyone know the coolant temp sensor part number so I can one order for myself?

Thanks

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iTrader: (20)

update.... changed the iac still did not fix the problem. when the car reaches 180 degrees it will smooth out and run decent

b_the_j

try using motorcraft carb cleaner $5 at ford(yuck) dealer it is really sticky at first then runs out easy plus it is designed to be safe for specially coated throttle bodies

b_the_j

did you ensure that the tps was adjusted(were they adjustable that yeaar?)

b_the_j

egr valves can be held open by carbon biuld-up the computer doesn't have any way of reading this. sometimes pulling the valve and snaking the passage will help. also check your coolant by placing a volt-meter pos lead in the fluid, and the neg on a good ground on the radiator. If your coolant is producing more than 3 tenths of one volt it is bad and will screw with your CTS.

upandcoming

iTrader: (20)

well I changed the tps and it is adjusted right on the money, the coolant thing I have never herd of.. I do however still need to change my hoses and thermostat. anybody know about the mat. sensor.

rjt76

change the fuel pump relay?

upandcoming

iTrader: (20)

did that already. I have changed just about everything.. except the egr,and the mat sensor. which is next in line.

Shagwell

MAt shouldn't screw w/ you. EGR could easily though. still sounds likeit's not going closed-loop soon enough. any access to a scanner?

upandcoming

iTrader: (20)

does the egr change at 180 degrees cause when it does it smooths out and runs like it should..any suggestions???

PneumaticTire

Your EGR valve does not recieve vacuum at idle, only when the engine is under load. So at idle, it is doing nothing and should be closed.