my 88 ta runs like crap in the morning or when it has sat awhile. I have changed o2 sensor,cold start switch,maf,tps,new fuel pump,fuel filter,chip,plugs,wires,cap,rotor,coil, but when it hits about 180 it get alot better but not perfect! help this thing is killing me

 

Coolant Temperature Sensor perhaps?

 

Yes, deffinately check that. Made a night and day difference on cold startups on mine.

 

would that not throw a code

 

Only if the computer knows its bad. The F-Body's OBD isnt exactly sophistocated.

 

my sensor was all gummed up and the wire connecting to the ecu(or whatever it goes to, not 100& sure) was half-burned, so it was connected not throwing a code, but quite useless. It kept the car COLD since it was sensing "coolant" heat (aka burning heat from the manifold)

It used to stumple badly for like 10 seconds on startup, now it starts almost like a new car.

 

iac

 

clean your IAC passage/check or replace your coolant temp sensor - if the ECU thinks its warm/cold all the time, it'll really screw w/ the tune

 

well I replaced the coolant temp. sensor. BIG help! It will now light up the tires. but it did not fix it. ordered a new IAC and throttle body gaskets.they shoud be here thursday. What should I use to clean the passages with?

 

thought maybe it could also be the mat sensor or the egr? any suggestions or those

 

pull the vac hose going to the egr and plug it. go for a test drive/test start. That should tell you if your egr is screwy.

 

I seem to have a similar problem anyone know the coolant temp sensor part number so I can one order for myself?

Thanks

 

update.... changed the iac still did not fix the problem. when the car reaches 180 degrees it will smooth out and run decent

 

try using motorcraft carb cleaner $5 at ford(yuck) dealer it is really sticky at first then runs out easy plus it is designed to be safe for specially coated throttle bodies

 

did you ensure that the tps was adjusted(were they adjustable that yeaar?)

 

egr valves can be held open by carbon biuld-up the computer doesn't have any way of reading this. sometimes pulling the valve and snaking the passage will help. also check your coolant by placing a volt-meter pos lead in the fluid, and the neg on a good ground on the radiator. If your coolant is producing more than 3 tenths of one volt it is bad and will screw with your CTS.

 

well I changed the tps and it is adjusted right on the money, the coolant thing I have never herd of.. I do however still need to change my hoses and thermostat. anybody know about the mat. sensor.

 

change the fuel pump relay?

 

did that already. I have changed just about everything.. except the egr,and the mat sensor. which is next in line.

 

MAt shouldn't screw w/ you. EGR could easily though. still sounds likeit's not going closed-loop soon enough. any access to a scanner?

 

does the egr change at 180 degrees cause when it does it smooths out and runs like it should..any suggestions???

 

Your EGR valve does not recieve vacuum at idle, only when the engine is under load. So at idle, it is doing nothing and should be closed.