Ok. I have a 1987 Firebird Formula 305 T.P.I . When i bought it the SES light was on but the car did not do any thing out-of-the-ordinary. SO about a week after i bought it (about 100 miles). I would start it the car would run good for about 1/2 a block the it would bog down. Then about 2 seconds later the ses light would come on. SO while the light is on i would floor it and it would do NOTHING just stay at the same speed. THen as i let up off the gas the car would speed up, Not like floored speed up just kinda speed up like you are merging onto the highway kinda speed up, then right as the gas pedle would get all the way up it would go to an idle. So we drove it down to Firestone(IT think) and had them run a diognostics on the car. They said it was the MAF sensor. SO i went down and bought one from advanced auto for 190.00. And it never fixed the prob. But while they where telling me what was wrong with my car they also said. that if we continue driving it i will destory my TPS sensor. SO when i put the new MAF sensor on and found out my has the same probs i went down and bought a TPS sensor for my car 35.00. and well after we put that on my car fired right up and idled really high (1800 RPMS) But we read the directions that came with the TPS sensor and it said something about 8 volts and a motor. SO my question is How would i set the TPS sensor? (P.S the cars check engine light came backon even with the new maf and tps sensors on my car but did not have any of the sympyoms.) also when the car is running good and i floor it after 3000 rpms it just doesent pull any more but continues to gain rpm. I think it is because the car is not advancing. How do i tell. or how would i fix this

Take your car to AutoZone,,, they will pull the error code for you at no charge. Once they have the code, find out what you can from them. And get back on here for some advice. The error code will be a two digit code.

Also, do a search on here for "diagnostic codes". You can actually get the error codes yourself by using a paper clip. The diagnostic connector is above your right knee when you are in the drivers seat. The diag.conn. has two rows and 6 columns. If you number the top row 1 thru 6 (left to right), you want to connect (short out) the 5th and 6th positions together, then turn the key to the on position. Start counting the flashes, you will get one flash a long pause then two quick flashes, this is read as a 1-2 or 12, You get each two digit code there times. For example, if there are two error codes you will see, 12, 12, 12, 33, 33, 33, 22, 22, 22, 12, 12, 12... When you see the 12 come back, you are done. The sequence is always three 12s, then the error codes, then three 12s. When your finished remove the paper clip and turn the key off.

Ok, I went down to Autozone and they could not read the codes i mean they did but the thingthey had did not hook up to the computer of the car. SO i took it down to goodyear and they found out it is the maf sensor so i fixed it wellah i still have the same probs.

I'm a bit lost here, you say they fixed, but you have the same problems?

Tell us what the car does and doesn't do, minimize the "step on the gas" stuff...

Like Jack said, j"ust the facts mamm"...okay, never mind, you're probably too young
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Doc, is that you from a long time ago? If so, we used to converse now and then, glad to see you're still 3rdgen related

Best way to set TPS. Connect battery, buy or wrestle out a VOM meter.
Set it to V-- 0-20v range. They cost like 12 bucks at Autozone. Make a
set of 18 gauge jumper wires 6inches long, strip them to long strips of
copper. Slide them into the 3 prong connector at the A and B terminals
(the top 2 on the TPS) C terminal is a 5 volts to the ECM (the bottom prong)
Don't use that one! Then gently stuff the connector back into the TPS sensor
with the wires intact and making contact with the prongs.

Turn the key don't start, grab the meter and place the BLACK GROUND
meter tester to the A terminal jumper wire you made and the RED LEAD tester to the B terminal jumper wire.

If the meter is set correctly you should see a .5v to 5.0v (5v is WOT) TPS readout. Open the throttle blades a few times and look at the meter for smooth voltage jumps and make sure WOT is 5 volts. If it looks good, Set the TPS between .58v to .62v

Wherever your car the likes it. Even if you got it scanned at Autozone
try his so you know, It's very simple and very cool

8mike9: yes its the same old doc, I've been on here for 13 years now. I sent you PM.

02 camaro: Again, you must find out what the codes are, and get back to us.... Are you getting the 33 error code ? Having a 33 error code does NOT mean that the problem is the MAF sensor. I got sucked into that same idea by mistake several years ago. Anybody having a MAF car can get this code if mod have been made, especially, if its a 350.

Also, complete the TPS and Minimum Air & IAC tuning. Articles on how to do these is in the Technical Article section on the Home page here.

Edit part: A 33 error code will only be set if all three items below are true at the same time: 1) under 2000 RPM, 2) over 45 gms/sec thru MAF, and 3) less than 25% throotle. The ECM gets the 25% throotle part by where you set the TPS voltage at idle.

When I got the 33 error code, I would feel the engine stumble a little bit, then the SES light would come on. The engine now was running like crap, becuase it gos into "limp home mode". I am assuming that since you were told that the MAF is bad, you have the 33 error code. BTW: my MAF was perfectly fine everytime I got the 33 error code.

Once you set it for idle, be sure to check it at WOT too. Just some FYI, 90-92 F bodies TPS housings had no slots for adjustment because as long as it was close, when the computer turned on it, just zeros the value out. Another reason I like 730s better.

The technical article for TPS is vague and not so easy to understand
for a novice, IAC adjustment is more straight forward.

Either way, hope the walk through helps!

TPS and the code 33 go hand and hand, like Doc mentioned.
If your TPS voltage is mis-calibrated, it could likely set your code.

Doc' words are wise, but my code 33 incident had me tearing electrical
up looking for problem that didn't exist. I replaced my original MAF with bad
remanufactured MAF's, and more bad MAF's! Until, I owned up and purchased
a new Bosch MAF unit ($315.00). Then, it was gone like the wind.

Code 33 is a hard code, it will NOT go away until it is rectified.
It's your task alone to narrow it down to the MAF circuit, TPS adjustment,
ground issue or a MAF unit.

The only way to really tell is testing the MAF circuit and grounds
with a VOM meter. Vader is the one who walked me through it
not to long ago.

Or you could do it like most people and throw parts at it until
you get lucky. Ive been down the road and it's not fun.

Hey Guys,

I’m bringing this up to the top because my car is doing the same thing. No response when throttle is given, I floor it and nothing happens. This is an intermittent problem that happens at low and highway speeds. It has also developed a terrible idle, it searches for about a minute, and then it is fine. Sometimes the idle jumps to 1200-1400rpm. I have scanned the computer and the following codes came up: 25, 33, 34, and 42. I have replaced the pickup coil on the distributor, both MAF power relays, the TPS, and the coil wire going from the coil to the distributor. The car is still behaving poorly and seems to be getting worse. When it acts up, I can smell the car running very rich.

Now, two days ago, I bought some CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the MAF per the directions. I sprayed the MAF in both directions and let it dry. I reinstalled and took it for a ride. The car ran great! No idle problems, no hesitation, no power loss…for about 20 minutes. Then all the gremlins came back.

I’m really lost here and looking for help. I just bought the car and don’t want to dump the money into a new MAF and have the problems reappear.

Car Info:
89 Formula 350 TPI with an Auto
Engine was rebuilt about 20K miles ago.
355 CI w/ L82 camshaft