T-5 hop up
08-10-2003, 02:26 PM
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Car: Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 5.0L
Transmission: 5-speed
T-5 hop up
The trans in my car is about shot, so I'm gonna put a new one in. Can they be rebuilt w/ different parts to make them hold up better against speed shifing up and down, and a short throw shifter?
Also, I'm gonna put in a new clutch, any suggestions? I'm thinkin Centerforce Dualfriction, but I read somewhere that they're for race aplications.
Thanx-
x
Also, I'm gonna put in a new clutch, any suggestions? I'm thinkin Centerforce Dualfriction, but I read somewhere that they're for race aplications.
Thanx-
x
08-10-2003, 02:45 PM
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
G-Force make a T-5 upgrade kit that is supposed to handle 600hp and 500 ft.lb. torque. T-5 Upgrade
08-11-2003, 12:22 AM
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Car: 89 TA
Engine: 413 TPI
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I got a 89 Trans Am 5 speed and the 3rd gear grinds. I was wondering if anyone has had there T5's rebuilt and what they paid to have them do it. I was planning to pull it and have the trans shop do a bench job. I could go with the trans you suggested since I am dropping a 383c.i. motor in the car and I need a trans that will take it.
08-11-2003, 06:40 AM
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Car: '88 Iroc
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Transmission: T56
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Hi Guys,
Have a look at this thread. It will answer your dog ring question as well as prices. Also, check out this letter from Michael Long, the G-Force V.P.:
Have a look at this thread. It will answer your dog ring question as well as prices. Also, check out this letter from Michael Long, the G-Force V.P.:
Originally posted by FruityOne
Hello,
I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you but we've been totally
buried with work around here. We made our first 25 T-5 kits and sold
them before they were even finished, so I wanted to get some more on the
shelf before I replied to your email.
Our T-5 kits are avialable in either synchronized or dog-ring
versions and the dog ring kits can be selected in either straight-cut or
helical configurations. If your mostly going to drive it on the street
and the lowest elapsed times are not the primary objective for the car,
then the synchronized kit would be your best choice. The synchronized
kits are only available in helical configurations, for reduced noise.
The dog ring kits are best suited to cars that are primarily used at
the track. They can be driven on the street, but they are a bit
"clunky" when shifted, especially driving through town. I have a
dog-ring kit in my personal car (a 2000 Roush GT with about 550
RWHP-check out the cover of the upcoming MM&FF tech guide) and it's not
bad at all around town if you don't mind a bit of clunking in the gear
change. A had our synchronized kit in the car before I put the dog-ring
kit in and both work excellent, but I opted for the dog-ring kit so
other people could see and feel how they shifted.
The synchronized kit utilizes 9310 high-nickel gear sets, input
shaft, countershaft, and mainshaft gears. The dog-ring kits utilized
the same 9310 parts listed for the syncro kit, plus new dog-ring
sliders, hubs, and bronze shift forks. We've made bronze forks
(aluminum bronze-very tough) that are optional on the synchro kits but
mandatory on the dog-ring kits, mostly because of the increased shock
load of the dog-ring operation.
We also have optional upgraded mainshafts made from either 9310 or 300M,
depending on the application (and how much you want to spend).
Both kits are rated at 600 crankshaft horsepower with the 9310
mainshaft, but this is only an ESTIMATE. It is based on running drag
radials or a small slick (something like a 26 x 10), with a moderate
clutch setup in a vehicle that weighs approx. 3000-3200 lbs. Use your
own judgement to determine if your vehicle will be more or less abusing
to the trans based on what you have for a setup. I can say, however,
that we did have a car in Florida this past weekend with our helical
gear kit running 10.0's and didn't hurt it (with the 300M mainshaft).
They are realistically the best horsepower per dollar purchase that you
will most likely find for anything over 300 horsepower.
All kits are either finished or in process and we should be ready to
ship everything in the next 3 to 4 weeks, but most are available today.
The prices for the synchronized kits are $1,000 using your trans and
$1,600 using a good core that we supply with the kit already installed
(assuming you don't have a T-5 to start with). The price on a dog-ring
kit is $1,550 using your trans and $2,100 using a good core that we
supply. You can also purchase the kits installed using a NEW T-5 for
approxamately $400 more. You can also send us your T-5 and we'll
install the kit for an additional $250 above the price of the kit. All
prices are without a shifter. We also sell Pro 5.0 shifters if you need
to get one (must have aftermarket shifter with stops for the dog-ring
conversion).
If you are a dealer and are looking for a buy in, contact us by
phone with your tax # and we can give the information that you need.
Thank your for your interest in our transmission components.
Michael Long
V.P. G-Force Transmissions/Long Shifters
Hello,
I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you but we've been totally
buried with work around here. We made our first 25 T-5 kits and sold
them before they were even finished, so I wanted to get some more on the
shelf before I replied to your email.
Our T-5 kits are avialable in either synchronized or dog-ring
versions and the dog ring kits can be selected in either straight-cut or
helical configurations. If your mostly going to drive it on the street
and the lowest elapsed times are not the primary objective for the car,
then the synchronized kit would be your best choice. The synchronized
kits are only available in helical configurations, for reduced noise.
The dog ring kits are best suited to cars that are primarily used at
the track. They can be driven on the street, but they are a bit
"clunky" when shifted, especially driving through town. I have a
dog-ring kit in my personal car (a 2000 Roush GT with about 550
RWHP-check out the cover of the upcoming MM&FF tech guide) and it's not
bad at all around town if you don't mind a bit of clunking in the gear
change. A had our synchronized kit in the car before I put the dog-ring
kit in and both work excellent, but I opted for the dog-ring kit so
other people could see and feel how they shifted.
The synchronized kit utilizes 9310 high-nickel gear sets, input
shaft, countershaft, and mainshaft gears. The dog-ring kits utilized
the same 9310 parts listed for the syncro kit, plus new dog-ring
sliders, hubs, and bronze shift forks. We've made bronze forks
(aluminum bronze-very tough) that are optional on the synchro kits but
mandatory on the dog-ring kits, mostly because of the increased shock
load of the dog-ring operation.
We also have optional upgraded mainshafts made from either 9310 or 300M,
depending on the application (and how much you want to spend).
Both kits are rated at 600 crankshaft horsepower with the 9310
mainshaft, but this is only an ESTIMATE. It is based on running drag
radials or a small slick (something like a 26 x 10), with a moderate
clutch setup in a vehicle that weighs approx. 3000-3200 lbs. Use your
own judgement to determine if your vehicle will be more or less abusing
to the trans based on what you have for a setup. I can say, however,
that we did have a car in Florida this past weekend with our helical
gear kit running 10.0's and didn't hurt it (with the 300M mainshaft).
They are realistically the best horsepower per dollar purchase that you
will most likely find for anything over 300 horsepower.
All kits are either finished or in process and we should be ready to
ship everything in the next 3 to 4 weeks, but most are available today.
The prices for the synchronized kits are $1,000 using your trans and
$1,600 using a good core that we supply with the kit already installed
(assuming you don't have a T-5 to start with). The price on a dog-ring
kit is $1,550 using your trans and $2,100 using a good core that we
supply. You can also purchase the kits installed using a NEW T-5 for
approxamately $400 more. You can also send us your T-5 and we'll
install the kit for an additional $250 above the price of the kit. All
prices are without a shifter. We also sell Pro 5.0 shifters if you need
to get one (must have aftermarket shifter with stops for the dog-ring
conversion).
If you are a dealer and are looking for a buy in, contact us by
phone with your tax # and we can give the information that you need.
Thank your for your interest in our transmission components.
Michael Long
V.P. G-Force Transmissions/Long Shifters
08-11-2003, 10:46 AM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
I'm the only one I know of on the board actually running this trans.
Still using the L69, so whether it will actually take 500 ftlbs torque, I wouldn't know. Hell, even the 400 I plan to build most likely won't put out that type of power....unless I decide to spray it.
I suggest if you're really serious about getting either the kit or entire trans, call them.
No way I'd run a dog ring trans on the street though...
I do have a slight vibration problem with mine at around 45-50 MPH. I can only feel it in the shifter. Doesn't matter whether clutch is in or not.
I took it to 2 tranny shops and they both test drove it (they both said the car runs awesome BTW), anyways, One guy said he believes there might be something up with the front bearing, but said to take it to this other shop that was better with manual trannys.
The second shop had better news. He thinks the pilot bearing has too much slop so he recommended changing it, and also said he'd take a quick look at the tranny while I had it out to change the pilot bearing.
Just waiting to get a couple days off work to pull this thing again!
Still using the L69, so whether it will actually take 500 ftlbs torque, I wouldn't know. Hell, even the 400 I plan to build most likely won't put out that type of power....unless I decide to spray it.
I suggest if you're really serious about getting either the kit or entire trans, call them.
No way I'd run a dog ring trans on the street though...
I do have a slight vibration problem with mine at around 45-50 MPH. I can only feel it in the shifter. Doesn't matter whether clutch is in or not.
I took it to 2 tranny shops and they both test drove it (they both said the car runs awesome BTW), anyways, One guy said he believes there might be something up with the front bearing, but said to take it to this other shop that was better with manual trannys.
The second shop had better news. He thinks the pilot bearing has too much slop so he recommended changing it, and also said he'd take a quick look at the tranny while I had it out to change the pilot bearing.
Just waiting to get a couple days off work to pull this thing again!
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08-11-2003, 12:05 PM
#8
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Car: Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 5.0L
Transmission: 5-speed
Thanx. Well, I can't afford all of that kit, but I'm gonna email them to see if they can sell just the high-nickel syncronizers.
But first, is that what I need? I think the problemb is from my bangin it into gears, since my problemb is that its hard to put it in gear sometimes.
But first, is that what I need? I think the problemb is from my bangin it into gears, since my problemb is that its hard to put it in gear sometimes.
08-11-2003, 03:55 PM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Originally posted by drifter-x
Thanx. Well, I can't afford all of that kit, but I'm gonna email them to see if they can sell just the high-nickel syncronizers.
But first, is that what I need? I think the problemb is from my bangin it into gears, since my problemb is that its hard to put it in gear sometimes.
Thanx. Well, I can't afford all of that kit, but I'm gonna email them to see if they can sell just the high-nickel syncronizers.
But first, is that what I need? I think the problemb is from my bangin it into gears, since my problemb is that its hard to put it in gear sometimes.
Neither one of them would hold up to constant "speed shifting" however. But I'm no expert. There's a few here that know these trannys better than I do, that's fer sure.
Last edited by Confuzed1; 08-11-2003 at 04:01 PM.
08-11-2003, 04:00 PM
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Car: Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 5.0L
Transmission: 5-speed
Originally posted by Confuzed1
If you have the newer WC trans, the synch rings are already better than the old style BW type, which are brass.
If you have the newer WC trans, the synch rings are already better than the old style BW type, which are brass.
08-11-2003, 04:02 PM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
That would most likely be a World Class - the better of the two.
08-12-2003, 02:29 PM
#12
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On the topic of the G-force upgrades, I thought that case flex was one of the major problems with T-5's. The G-force website makes no mention of this, and their kits don't reinforce the case at all. What's the deal?
08-12-2003, 06:39 PM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Originally posted by NTChrist
I thought that case flex was one of the major problems with T-5's. The G-force website makes no mention of this, and their kits don't reinforce the case at all. What's the deal?
I thought that case flex was one of the major problems with T-5's. The G-force website makes no mention of this, and their kits don't reinforce the case at all. What's the deal?
08-12-2003, 07:04 PM
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
This idea of making a T5 strong enough to live behind my 383 is very exciting to me. Ever since I swapped in a TH350, I have been questioning my sanity. I long for those days of banging gears and, most importantly, OVERDRIVE.
My question is how do you know if you have World Class trans or not? My car is 92 Z28. And no, I have not yet done a search on the matter. But I will, so maybe if someone is in the mood to give me a simple, straight answer, I would appreciate it. Thanks...
My question is how do you know if you have World Class trans or not? My car is 92 Z28. And no, I have not yet done a search on the matter. But I will, so maybe if someone is in the mood to give me a simple, straight answer, I would appreciate it. Thanks...
08-12-2003, 09:00 PM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
In a nutshell, look for an original V-8 T-5 from an 88-92 Fbod, they were all WC trannys.
08-12-2003, 09:09 PM
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
I did some searching and I am sure I have the WC. Thank you for your friendly response.
One of the members says the best way to determine whether or not you have a WC is to look at the counter gear bearing on the front of the trans. Well mine looks how a WC should look!! Lucky me, the trans is out of the car. I can get the parts, rebuild it, and then schedule some time to install it AND have my car to drive in the mean time!!!
One of the members says the best way to determine whether or not you have a WC is to look at the counter gear bearing on the front of the trans. Well mine looks how a WC should look!! Lucky me, the trans is out of the car. I can get the parts, rebuild it, and then schedule some time to install it AND have my car to drive in the mean time!!!
08-12-2003, 11:43 PM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Originally posted by 92 zzz28
One of the members says the best way to determine whether or not you have a WC is to look at the counter gear bearing on the front of the trans. Well mine looks how a WC should look!! Lucky me, the trans is out of the car. I can get the parts, rebuild it, and then schedule some time to install it AND have my car to drive in the mean time!!!
One of the members says the best way to determine whether or not you have a WC is to look at the counter gear bearing on the front of the trans. Well mine looks how a WC should look!! Lucky me, the trans is out of the car. I can get the parts, rebuild it, and then schedule some time to install it AND have my car to drive in the mean time!!!
I've heard about the countergear being diff, but really, the only difference I could tell was by the stamping on the side of the case. My old BW said "Basic 1" on it, and the WC said "Basic 1A". Or maybe I'm way off.
I just wish I your 383 to test my tranny!!!
08-13-2003, 09:30 AM
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Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by Confuzed1
I'm the only one I know of on the board actually running this trans.
I'm the only one I know of on the board actually running this trans.
08-13-2003, 10:06 AM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Well, I guess I stand corrected....now I'm not the only one I know of running this trans.....or something like that? 
08-13-2003, 11:47 AM
#20
This is v. interesting thread...
Ok.. so given that I always double clutch on my downshifts and don't rely on syncros to do the work, would this make a dog-ring setup be more livable with?
Ok.. so given that I always double clutch on my downshifts and don't rely on syncros to do the work, would this make a dog-ring setup be more livable with?
08-13-2003, 03:36 PM
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Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by Confuzed1
Well, I guess I stand corrected....now I'm not the only one I know of running this trans.....or something like that?
Well, I guess I stand corrected....now I'm not the only one I know of running this trans.....or something like that?
08-13-2003, 06:47 PM
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Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Originally posted by Confuzed1
I just wish I your 383 to test my tranny!!!
I just wish I your 383 to test my tranny!!!
Wanna buy it???
08-14-2003, 12:14 AM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Originally posted by vexter
I'm sorry, I didn't mean for it to come off that way. Wasn't trying to correct you. Just identifying another member who has some experience here. Apologies...
I'm sorry, I didn't mean for it to come off that way. Wasn't trying to correct you. Just identifying another member who has some experience here. Apologies...
Sometimes it seems like most of my experience is from learning how to do things the "hard way".
08-14-2003, 12:16 AM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Originally posted by 92 zzz28
Wanna buy it???
Wanna buy it???
Don't tempt me like that.......
08-14-2003, 09:52 AM
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Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by Confuzed1
... it seems like most of my experience is from learning how to do things the "hard way".
... it seems like most of my experience is from learning how to do things the "hard way".
08-17-2003, 09:37 PM
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what does wc mean when ur talkin bout the t-5 i just bought a 83 trans am with a 5 speed in it 4 parts due to the fact i wanna putt a five speed in my car .....and also how hard is is to putt in a mechanical clutch linkage in cause this car has 1 and i didnt know it till it was to late........
08-18-2003, 11:50 PM
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Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Originally posted by jwformula350ws6
what does wc mean when ur talkin bout the t-5 i just bought a 83 trans am with a 5 speed in it 4 parts due to the fact i wanna putt a five speed in my car .....and also how hard is is to putt in a mechanical clutch linkage in cause this car has 1 and i didnt know it till it was to late........
what does wc mean when ur talkin bout the t-5 i just bought a 83 trans am with a 5 speed in it 4 parts due to the fact i wanna putt a five speed in my car .....and also how hard is is to putt in a mechanical clutch linkage in cause this car has 1 and i didnt know it till it was to late........
I think (and I'm just bein honest) it would be a pain to get the pedals in, the ball pivot you'll need to screw into the block, along with the clutch rod holder that bolts onto the frame under the brake master cyl.
Notice I said PAIN. But, everything will bolt up. Just gotta have patience and time. Did I mention patience yet??
I'd recommend switching to a hydraulic setup. No harder than the mechanical to install, but you won't have to adjust the clutch all the time.
08-22-2003, 07:30 PM
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ur right i gott a borg warner tranny..........is that a good thing or a bad thing? plus i have all the **** to do the clutch at least 4 a mechanical setup im tryin to find a hydro bell so i can do a hydro setup butt cant
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