Picture of my Powertrax No-Slip unit.
#1
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Update: Sold Camaro, now own a "91" Corvette.
Engine: Corvette L98 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Picture of my Powertrax No-Slip unit.
UPS delivered the Powertrax No-Slip unit yesterday and I'll be installing it sometime today or tomorrow. The unit looks like a very high quality piece and the instructions are very well written and illustrated. Heres a picture. I'll post some installation pictures after I install the unit. Remember, this is the NO-SLIP unit not the Lockright.
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Update: Sold Camaro, now own a "91" Corvette.
Engine: Corvette L98 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The No-Slip unit has a different gear and spring design that make the unit a lot smoother and quieter than the original Lock-Right. Here's an exploded view from the instruction manual.
Unfortunately, today I went to install the unit and after taking everything apart, I found that Jeg's sent me the correct part # but, the unit was boxed wrong. I ordered a 28 tooth unit and even though the receipt and box said 28 tooth, the unit was a 26 tooth.
I'm sending it back on tuesday and hope to get the correct one sometime next week.
Unfortunately, today I went to install the unit and after taking everything apart, I found that Jeg's sent me the correct part # but, the unit was boxed wrong. I ordered a 28 tooth unit and even though the receipt and box said 28 tooth, the unit was a 26 tooth.
I'm sending it back on tuesday and hope to get the correct one sometime next week.
Last edited by GKK; 08-31-2003 at 01:29 AM.
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Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
Bummer about the mispackaging...
I was looking forward to hearing all about how it was to install and how well it performed. I have been considering putting one in my 3.42s. At least you have good things to say about the overall machining quality and instructions!
Keep us posted the second time around.
I was looking forward to hearing all about how it was to install and how well it performed. I have been considering putting one in my 3.42s. At least you have good things to say about the overall machining quality and instructions!
Keep us posted the second time around.
#6
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yeah, looks like ya got a couple extra springs that i don't have. i have the eight inside that press against the center pin, but not any additional. mine is loud as all get out going around turns. and i have the street springs in mine. when my dad had it in his, he had the drag springs in it and it was louder than the car with true duals off of headman longtubes and moroso spiral muffs.
#7
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Heh, I just pulled mine out and put it back in tonight. Getting ready to go up to the drag strip so I was just having a look over anything and everything. Those units go in easy but getting them out is a pain LOL. After about 5000 miles, everything still looks great.
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Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383TBI Fastburns and 2"TB
Transmission: T56 held up by Spohnstuff
I have one of these and have nothing but praise for them. I had to re-install mine when I put Baer brakes on my car and it was easier the second time around. I had about 200 miles on my car when I removed it and examination showed virtually no wear.
This unit produces award winning burnouts. Just ask my driveway and various side streets in my neighborhood!
Use grease on the little springs to keep them in place. I believe there are 8 springs that float the pinion shaft (large steel pin). Beyond that there 2 double springs that push the drivers away from each other.
Everything will install by hand, with minimum force.
It is very important that, during installation the Paddle Opening in the Synchro is lined up with the Paddle Opening on the Driver. I put grease on each face to help them stick together.
I found that if it not lined up correctly, the pinion shaft will go in about 1/2 way- just enough to make you want to get a hammer and finish it. When properly aligned, the pinion shaft will slide in with minimum force.
Also, of course make sure to keep the Active Spacer and Driver as a pair for each side. One set is slotted (to allow installation of the last c-clip) and the other is not.
S-D
Evil Cartman- Did you get your AFR heads yet? I sent an e-mail to AFR concerning the AFR heads with burrs posts and recieved a response from Rick Sperling, president of AFR. It is posted on that thread.
This unit produces award winning burnouts. Just ask my driveway and various side streets in my neighborhood!
Use grease on the little springs to keep them in place. I believe there are 8 springs that float the pinion shaft (large steel pin). Beyond that there 2 double springs that push the drivers away from each other.
Everything will install by hand, with minimum force.
It is very important that, during installation the Paddle Opening in the Synchro is lined up with the Paddle Opening on the Driver. I put grease on each face to help them stick together.
I found that if it not lined up correctly, the pinion shaft will go in about 1/2 way- just enough to make you want to get a hammer and finish it. When properly aligned, the pinion shaft will slide in with minimum force.
Also, of course make sure to keep the Active Spacer and Driver as a pair for each side. One set is slotted (to allow installation of the last c-clip) and the other is not.
S-D
Evil Cartman- Did you get your AFR heads yet? I sent an e-mail to AFR concerning the AFR heads with burrs posts and recieved a response from Rick Sperling, president of AFR. It is posted on that thread.
Last edited by swerve-driver; 08-31-2003 at 10:21 AM.
#9
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i have had to do several speed-rebuilds on these things at the track. we broke an axle in the z28 and i pulled the entire thing apart, new axle in and put it back together and on the ground ready to run in like 45mins. i understand whatcha mean about those things being a PITA to take out.
#10
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just for everyones information, i had one of those in my 10 bolt (now have a moser 12 bolt),
its goddamn invincible.....it cant be killed.....
i tried to launch the car at about 6000rpm one time with slicks, twisted the splined end of the axle off inside the locker....
i pulled out the carrier, and had to hammer the axle piece out of the locker with a punch, and to my shock there wasnt a mark on the locker or its splines.....
so the locker is alot tougher than everything else in there, i had richmond gears too, and an lpw cover.....the only thing stock was the axles
its goddamn invincible.....it cant be killed.....
i tried to launch the car at about 6000rpm one time with slicks, twisted the splined end of the axle off inside the locker....
i pulled out the carrier, and had to hammer the axle piece out of the locker with a punch, and to my shock there wasnt a mark on the locker or its splines.....
so the locker is alot tougher than everything else in there, i had richmond gears too, and an lpw cover.....the only thing stock was the axles
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Originally posted by swerve-driver
Evil Cartman- Did you get your AFR heads yet? I sent an e-mail to AFR concerning the AFR heads with burrs posts and recieved a response from Rick Sperling, president of AFR. It is posted on that thread.
Evil Cartman- Did you get your AFR heads yet? I sent an e-mail to AFR concerning the AFR heads with burrs posts and recieved a response from Rick Sperling, president of AFR. It is posted on that thread.
#13
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Car: No more birdy
Yea same one Ive got. Even though its an upgraded unit it still pop's on sharp turns. It's just amazing when you have the unit in one hand and the receipt in the other and the receipt is bigger. lol.
#14
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Originally posted by mw66nova
well, i wouldn't say they are invinsible. i destroyed one doing donuts when my car still had the v6 in it.
well, i wouldn't say they are invinsible. i destroyed one doing donuts when my car still had the v6 in it.
#16
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well, it was the 7 5/8" carrier. i don't know if the units for those carriers were any different then the 7 1/2" cause the one in my car now was in my dad's before(i put a 3.73 7 1/2" disc in my car) and it had an axle break in it without problems. the unit from my car looks like it is in good condition but it makes some *** awful poping noises. i put new springs and checked and re checked all clearances. still popped and did all kindsa funny things. i had the car shift lanes on my going 75 mph down the highway cause the unit opened and closed on me. pretty wierd stuff, huh? even had powertrax confused.
#17
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
Does this allow you to convert a non posi rear to posi? or is it just a clutch upgrade? How much are they?
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Car: No more birdy
Originally posted by wm_sorg
Does this allow you to convert a non posi rear to posi? or is it just a clutch upgrade? How much are they?
Does this allow you to convert a non posi rear to posi? or is it just a clutch upgrade? How much are they?
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Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
Sounds cool.
How does it handle torque while differentiating? Is gassing the car through a turn smooth? What if I punch it in a turn. Will both rears brake loose?
How does it handle torque while differentiating? Is gassing the car through a turn smooth? What if I punch it in a turn. Will both rears brake loose?
#20
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
It'll do all kinds of weird things in a turn if you're not used to it lol. Say you're turning left just kinda coasting through the turn at 45 mph then floor it. The car will want to go straight so the front of the car kinda jumps towards the outside of the corner. When you let off the gas, the front end comes back towards the inside of the corner. Now if you're at an intersection making a left or right turn then floor it while making the turn, that back end will come sliding around no problem So much fun hehe.
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: how much do...
Originally posted by KEVIN L.
those things cost? Are they pretty reasonable .
those things cost? Are they pretty reasonable .
#24
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Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
The car will want to go straight so the front of the car kinda jumps towards the outside of the corner. When you let off the gas, the front end comes back towards the inside of the corner.
#25
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Clutch type would be a limited slip Lockers don't slip. Still, the only reason I went with a locker was easy installation I could do in a couple of hours or less.
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