60504

I have done a little searching on this, but I am still confused.

I have a brand new G-Force T5 and Centerforce clutch with NEW GM slave and Hayes flywheel - EVERYTHING is brand new 'cause I swapped from 700R4 to T5...

The clutch pedal goes down (quite easily), the fork moves (1/2" or so), but the clutch does not disengage at all. Going into reverse just grinds...and doesn't go in at all.

I read something about the "shipping strap" on the slave actuator...I cut my straps (if you don't, the actuator won't go anywhere)...the plastic "cup" is resting between the actuator end and the fork as it should.

Like I said, it moves as it should, but does not disengage.

Could the clutch fork not be positioned correctly? It did pop out of place when I was realigning the clutch/trans and I put it back and thought it was seated right.

I can't believe I would need to bleed a brand new GM slave system, right?

RB83L69

Here we go again.....

What style of pilot bearing/bushing did you use in the crankshaft?

Look at the pic in this post; which way did you put yours together? https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=242897

This really should be a sticky.

BTW that post is on this very page, about halfway down; shouldn't have taken much searching to find it.

60504

I used the correct bearings and other parts...per info provided on this website and others.

I am pretty sure I installed the fork like picture #2, at least that was my intention, with the GM service manual at my side during installation...I obviously did something incorrect or I would be able to disengage the clutch and not have to waste your time asking silly questions.

Can I remedy this situation without dropping the T5? Can it be properly done thorugh the fork opening in the bellhousing?

Thanks

HeavyBreathinRS

OK...I'll be the one to ask the stupid question (since it happened to me )
Does it go into gear with the engine off?
If it does, maybe you need to do a better job of bleeding the clutch...the manual says gravity feed, and I tried every which way to Sunday (except gravity feed) and none of them worked.
Gravity bled the system, and within 20 minutes...perfect...it worked.

60504

Yes - it does go into every gear with the engine off. I would think that is normal because the engine/clutch are not spinning, eliminating the clutch disengagement issue from the picture...

I truly can't believe that a brand new, sealed GM slave assembly needs to be bled...Am I crazy for assuming that?

I am just about to go out to the garage and see what I can see...I'm going to start at the fork - I bet it is on the bearing wrong. Has to be something simple with all brand new parts and no installation issues...right??

I'll post the results later.

BTW...my ZZ4 350 with HSR + XR269HR cam is sounding pretty damn beefy - sure wish I could do more than just rev it with the G-Force T5 in neutral

RB83L69

Unfortunately you can't change the fork/throwout situation with the trans in the car.... it has to come out. Bummer. But at least, if you've already had it in the car and running, it should unplug and re-plug to the pilot easily.

I've never had a GM asembly that needed bleeding. I think your assumption about it is reasonable. I'd suspect an assembly problem.

Good luck!!

Allow me to share my favorite pearl of wisdom for figuring out what's making something happen the way it does:

"The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is usually the right one."
- Occam, ancient Greek philosopher, from the olden days when all clutches still had Z-bars

60504

Well, I just did a visual inspection through the fork opening in the bellhousing...It looks to me like the fork is installed correctly on the bearing. I don't see any tangs other than the ones at the end of the fork...

A) The clutch pedal depresses pretty easily, almost effortless. I don't want to bleed the system if it is not necessary, but what else could it be at this point

B) During the assembly process, I did "hang" the tranny about 1" out of the pilot bearing a few brief times as the clutch was not aligned correctly. Once aligned, it slid right in like butter...

If you were to choose the most likely culprit, would you pick:

A) Bleed the brand new hydraulics
B) Check the brand new clutch disk for warpage

Option B is obviously a bit more involved, so I was hoping for more intelligent advice...

IROCFAST

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem, turns out the clutch fork pivot ball was adjustable. Once I Figured that out, all was well. This was a factory GM bellhousing.

novass

iTrader: (1)

Did you use the acutal Centerforce Throw out bearing? If you are using a throw out for "just a T5" it will not work properly. There is a difference in the thickness of the throw out compared to a stock style one.

60504

I used a Centerforce bearing...all parts are correct.

Now about this adjustable pivot ball...I am using an aftermarket "adjustable" one also with the stock T5 bellhousing. I noticed that the "screw head" end does not sit flush with the face of the bellhousing when tightened. I set it per factory length and that is where it sits. Should it be tightened/loosened to put more tension on the fork?

IROCFAST

iTrader: (3)

If you tighten it, it will push the throwout bearing further into the pressure plate when you push in the clutch. This is what I think you need because that will disengage your clutch. Try it and let us know how it worked.

sqzbox

Had the same problem back when I was young and dumb in the 60's! We put the clutch disc in backwards!!!!

60504

I may be young (or old to some - just turned 36), but not dumb...I am wondering why, however, that I chose to use a Mr Gasket adjustable pivot ball rather than the correct GM non-adjustable ball...

It is currently screwed in as far as it will go, but it is not flush with the bellhousing, so it may not be long enough to do the job. I also found out that the Mr Gasket adjustable ball I used is the identical design to the Lakewood, which is designed for the Lakewood bellhousing, not the stock GM...what was I thinking?

I just ordered the factory GM one (#14036058) so I can eliminate the adjustable ball being the problem...

Hopefully, the new stock pivot ball/stud will allow the clutch to properly disengage...hopefully

sqzbox

I never implied you were. Just sharing a funny story on the subject, it took us two days to figure it out! when we first found out we had problems, we started it in first gear and still couldn't shift it going down the road. That 54 chevy 6 banger 3 on the tree
took me and my best friend on many double dates (not always the same girls) after we got it running! You might be beating yourself on the head now but someday you'll laugh talking about it!!

60504

This is really getting me annoyed...I just adjusted the Mr Gasket pivot ball all the way out (1/2" more) and it still doesn't disengage. The TOB slides nice and easy, and just barely touches the plate when the pedal is not pressed. Normal, right?

I have the car up on jack stands and in gear, the rear tires don't turn when the clutch is to the floor - with the engine off - the clutch is not even coming close to disengaging.

I removed the entire pivot ball, pulled the fork off the TOB and slid it right back on - tangs inside the TOB as required. This was done through the fork opening in the bellhousing - pretty good view as to what's going on in there.

So - pivot ball was adjusted all the way out, TOB slides back and forth, slave actuator moves ~1/2", but the damn thing has yet to disengage!

HELP - my next step is to drop the T5 and reassemble the entire brand new clutch assembly step by step...which I did correctly in the first place

WTF, I say!

SpikeIROC

The bearing isnt positioned correctly in the fork. Im 100% thats the problem. There's 2 ways to place the bearing in the fork. The right way, and the bad way. both looks OK when you visually place them in the fork tho.

60504

Thanks - I guess in the 2 days I've been researching & inspecting this issue, I could have had the tranny pulled and reinstalled by now...