I just converted over from auto (700R4) to stick (T5). I bought a new master-slave clutch setup from GM, A new Corvette flywheel, a new $120 clutch, roller pilot bearing, and a new clutch fork. The transmission I rebuilt myself. The installation went very easy and had no problems. The only problem I am having is that the clutch is seaming not to be fully disengaging. It is hard to put into gear and reverse grinds. If you put the car in gear with the clutch in it will roll slightly on flat surfaces. It is also stiff changing gears. The clutch is also very sensitive just as soon as you let the petal up an inch the clutch is fully engaged. I have been told to drive the car and the clutch will seat to the flywheel and pressure plate. I don't like this because I don't want to burn up the clutch. I also have been told I may have to adjust the clutch fork pivot ball in the bellhousing. If anyone has had this problem or knows what I can do please help. :hail:

 

When you put the throwout bearing on the fork, did you put the thin piece with the 2 little ears inside the groove in the throwout, or outside the groove?

They belong inside the groove.

If you "clip" the fork onto the throwout, it will do exactly as you describe.

 

I hang out here too much. I know what RB's reply will be before I open the thread.

 

Maybe it should be a sticky..... I get tired of typing it.

 

Yup, Sticky those pics!!

Rb's nick name should be the "Throw out King"

in fact I'll even save him some time:

The ears on the fork should be on the throw out bearing like in the second pic.

 

pic:

 

Nice pics!!!

 

I think I've seen those pics in another thread about the same problem lol

 

so is top or bottom correct?

 

 

so i guess you arent supposed to clip the throwout bearing inbetween the two pieces of the fork. the pics are kinda blurry.....

 

Those little "ears" are the tabs of a piece of spring steel that's riveted to the fork. They're NOT supposed to "clip" over the lip of the throwout; they're supposed to be inside the groove int he throwout, along with the main thick piece of the fork. All that spring is supposed to do, is to take up any play between the fork and the throwout, such that the fork is always up against the business surface that it works against. If you "clip" the ears on the back of the bearing like the top pic, it pulls the main part of the fork to the REAR of the groove, and holds it there; so when you push the clutch, the first thing that has to happen, is you have to take up all that slack. It takes about 1/3 of the total pedal travel to do that. Which ends up, that your pedal is only moving the clutch about 2/3 as much as it's supposed to; so it never fully releases.

 

got it....the disassembly went pretty easy (after i got the swivel sockets) so we shall see how the reassembly comes. ive got some play in the input shaft too, what are the consequences of not getting that fixed?

o and to everyone else, if you dont have the swivel socket adapters BUY THEM! there was no way i could have gotten the bellhousing off without them and they would have saved me a countless number of times in the past :lala:

 

Don't worry about it. There's supposed to be some.... after all, there's nothing holding it still at the front, since that's what the pilot bearing is supposed to do. Without that, the clutch gear is free to wander around a certain amount.

If the transmission worked properly before you took it out (at least, as far as anything except stiff shifting and/or grinding going into gears), you're probably better off to leave it alone, and just put a clutch in it.

I find the BH extremely easy to remove. I use a short 9/16" box wrench, and get the top bolts from above; you can just reach down there and undo them. Far easier than trying to do it from below.

 

i'm having this same probalme. but i dont' under stand were the fork clips ar spouse to go. all i did was slide th TO in the fork so it would stay and thats what i was todl to do. so help

 

Wrong...

 

Right....

 

ahhhhhhh...thanx rb i can see whats up now. the other pics were a little too blurry. and im glad my input shaft is cool. i did have some stiff shifting and reverse grinding so i guess im okay. the only problem was me not being able to downshift into 3rd but im hopeing (like you said in another thread) its only the pilot bushing.

now about that pilot busing.....do i want something the size of the bushings opening or the smaller opening behind it when i try to hydraulic it out?

 

You want something that fits fairly tight in the bushing; otherwise it will simply eject (spew) grease at high pressure (aerosol) from around it. Yuck. I usually use an old clutch gear. An alignment tool will work.

 

man i finally got the clutch in, had to wait on a clutch to arrive and trying to get that pilot bushing out was a pain. the bushing was wallowed out quite a bit and i had to take a breaker bar, wrap it in electrical tape, and finally hydraulic it out after trying a ball hitch..........