v8nate92RS

I don't know much about my T-5 tranny, but I do know it does a lot of things I wouldn't consider normal. First off, when I'm in reverse or 1st gear and am trying to slowly move, having the clutch halfway out or so, it makes this metal wailing noise until I fully let off. It will also make that noise when decellerating and it will go away when the clutch is fully engaged. Also, when I'm in traffic and have to slowly move between stop and 1st gear the car will "jump" continuously at very low speed with my foot off the clutch and gas. Does this have to do with my throw-out bearing or what? The rest of the tranny operates normally, shifts through the gears normally.

v8nate92RS

No one knows?

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

That just ain't right.

I can only suggest pulling it and inspecting the parts. Obviously something isn't working right and it needs to be pulled to fix it. 1st check tranny and clutch fuid (I don't think either of these would cause your problems, but check anyway). After that, just pull the tranny. Clutch, pilot bearing, I'd inspect them all. Check for anything obvious.

84silverbirdSE

what do u mean jump? Does it chatter when you r trying to start from a stop? and only first?

black85iroc

just replace it, its like 6 bucks at autozone and about an hour of work if you know what your doing.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

An hour? Some of us don't work for Hendricks motor sports buddy. Or have a lift and power tools at our disposal. If you can do it in an hour I'd be impressed.

84silverbirdSE

even if the bearing is good ALWAYS REPLACE IT!
As far as putting the bearing at fault, make sure first that thats your problem before you go and waste a WHOLE 1 hour worth of work, lol it could be something else small and could be fixed in mins.
And just for the record. I have a lift to do my work, not bragging just very greatfull ands i know it sucks working on the ground. From my experence. Ive changed about 8-10 trannys and clutches on third gens, mostly my own. so ive done them on the ground and in the air and ill tell ya, it takes more than an hour. The only way it will be DONE in an hour is if you have a lift and about 3 guys/girls, dont want to leave the ladies out , who know what there doing. And i mean everything from sizes to placement.. My 2cents ~~Vin

black85iroc

lets see, driveshaft, four bolts. torque arm, 3 bolts, trans, 4 bolts. center console..... i dont remember but that takes like 5-10 minutes, then shifter is 4 bolts, one nut holding the trans to the cross member then 4 more crossmember bolts. then use a jack an drop it.
alright well i guess its more like 1.5, maybe 2 hours. but its still not like its an all day project. i did it out of my garage with a jack, four jackstands and regular craftsman hand tools. and im not exactly the fastest wrencher out there, im only 18 with a couple few years of wrenching, but if your determined and not a dumbass it doesnt take long. anyway, back to putting my car back together.

v8nate92RS

Yes, the friction point just seems odd from other manuals I've had. If I am in traffic, stop and go, and I creep off the clutch in first, it will sometimes jump, meaning lurch forward, slow down, lurch forward, slow down, until I either give it gas or push the clutch back in. The tranny also makes a good amount of whining noise in 1st, 2cd, and 3rd. With the clutch pushed in, the tranny is completely quiet, with it released in nuetral there is a little "background" noise. I just don't want to take it to Aamco and have them say, "it needs a rebuild." The car only has 77K miles and it shifts properly through the gears, it just has those issues I've identified.

84silverbirdSE

I can tell you your tranny isnt bad. T-5's might not be the strongest trannys ever built but I know from experence they can take ALOT of abuse. I've had NO MERCY on ANY of my T-5's and I've yet to destroy one. I've had the later ones and currently driving and earlier one and power shift from time to time, not healthy but its my problem if it breaks.

Anyway, I've had your problem in the past a few times. If it an orignal set, and your positive, it might be time for a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing, and while youve gone this far change the clutch.
If its not and all or some of the componets were replaced someond did something wrong. Throwout bearing is in wrong and or binding on the fork. They never changed the pilot bearing or installed it wrong which is whats causing the tranny to Whine.
Your clutch system is hydraulic, if any parts were replaced the system might not have been bleed properly and that would also cause the chattering when u r trying to take off in first. You might want to try bleeding the system first to see if it makes a diffrence, you might be lucky and just have some air in the system which would also cause all of the above symtoms. Hope this helps!
~~Vin

afine89

My clutch will not engage until all the off the floor....first thing that was recommended was to replace clutch,etc. any suggestions other than replace clutch....shifts fine..just that pedal needs to be all the way before engaging...any hekp would be greatly appreciated!

84silverbirdSE

could you please explain your question a little better? I dont understand you, kinda.

When you have your foot off of the clutch pedal, the clutch is engaged.
When you push the clutch pedal to the floor, the clutch is Disengaged.

afine89

Sorry, After reading it again..it does sound like a stupid question. I t was a little early in the morning. Here it goes again.

The clutch will not engage at all until the pedal is basically all the way out...the clutch doesn't slip..it just doesn't engage until pedal is at it furthest point from the floor...

On all other 4 or 5 speeds I have owned, the clutch would start to engage approx. with 2 " of pedal off the floor.

This is my first RS. Is there an adjustment that can be made. I realize the clutch linkage (?) is hydraulic....

Thanks for any help

84silverbirdSE

V-6 and V-8 clutch free play might be diffrent, i dont know, i've only owned V-8 5-speeds so their might be some kind of free play diffrence. But if not ALL, most every clutch pedal should start to catch 1-2 inches from the floor, otherwise adjustments are needed. Since your clutch is hydraulic its self adjusting. The only thing you can do is bleed the system an dhope that helps. Check your pedal and make sureits all in tact nothing is binding or hangging up.
Their is one other thing you might be able to do and it might help you for now and I think this method is only to buy you some time if you know for sure your clutch is on it way out. The fork pivot stud has and external adjustment you can adjust as needed from the outside of the beelhousing. You cant miss it. Its on the left side of the tranny on the back side of the bell. It should be an octagon/hex shaped screw and i beleve you can adjust this to help with the throw o fthe throw out bearing. In other words, it will move the frork and throw out bearing closer to the pressure plate engaging and disengaging it sooner. IM NOT %101 ON THIS but im pretty sure it will help only to buy you some time. Mayby someone will correct me i fim wrong, if so please do........ ~VIN

afine89

I appreciate your response...Thanks

Now I have to find the time to explore your idea...

Any idea what it might cost to have the clutch replaced (not at a dealership) by local mechanic.....and to do the job properly, what else should be done.....

84silverbirdSE

sorry, the one question i cant answer, lol . I havent wemt to a mechanic since i was 17, im 25 now. id have to say around $450-$600 You can get a stock clutch for around $150 and it comes with everything u need. But I recomend buying the pilot BEARING! not pilot bushing.