more T-56 questions
#1
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Car: 85 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.6
Transmission: 5-speed
more T-56 questions
I recently purchased a T56 from a 94 z-28. the guy gave me just the cylinder for the clutch. none of the lines. i know there is a pin that holds the line on my T5 cylinder will that line remove and go onto my T56 cylinder?
Also my second question is. would it be easier for me to convert my speedo to electronic by using a 90-up gauge cluster instead of cable(cars an 85)? or should i go a different route? if everything is the same on the cluster just a connector for the speedo. ill just just the connector, run my own wires and run it to the tranny.... im not sure if thats all i need or if theres more to it than that? and i also have 3.70 gears, so i know itll be off, is there a way around this?
Also my second question is. would it be easier for me to convert my speedo to electronic by using a 90-up gauge cluster instead of cable(cars an 85)? or should i go a different route? if everything is the same on the cluster just a connector for the speedo. ill just just the connector, run my own wires and run it to the tranny.... im not sure if thats all i need or if theres more to it than that? and i also have 3.70 gears, so i know itll be off, is there a way around this?
#2
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Car: 85 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.6
Transmission: 5-speed
someone has to know? basically do i have to have the whole hydraulic setup from the T56 car or can i use just the slave cylinder on my T5 lines?
#3
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Take a look in the engine swap section under lt1/ls1. There is some informative discussion there. I just decided to go from auto to t5 to t56 and have some of the same questions. I am not sure if the PCM will send a proper signal to the 90+ speedo or if there is an electronics box necessary for interface. I do know that the pulse count is different from the t56 than that provided from the 90+ transmissions in the third gens. I am installing an lt1 and it is best to use the t56 and not confuse the PCM. Make that will be installing when I finish the search for odds n ends and stuff. Almost there once I pick up the t56 and find hydraulics for it.
On the hydraulics, you need to get the pedals and hydraulics from and lt1 car. There is some difference in the ls1 and lt1. I don't know about a mix and match of t5 and t56 but the lt1 engine swap guys can tell you.
On the hydraulics, you need to get the pedals and hydraulics from and lt1 car. There is some difference in the ls1 and lt1. I don't know about a mix and match of t5 and t56 but the lt1 engine swap guys can tell you.
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Car: 87 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" ford 35 spline axles
the clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder comes as an assembly. Sounds like you need to get a new one. There is a sticky thats got alot of good information about the swap....check it out
#5
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Car: 85 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.6
Transmission: 5-speed
i know i dont need the pedals out of the lt1 car. you can get the hydraulics you need on e-bay. for like $150 brand new. ill probably end up having to do that and getting the Cable X box to convert mechanical to electronic speedo.
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You can get the hydraulics from your local stealership for less than that. I think I paid about $125 for mine.
3rd gen pedals work fine for me. Although, the pedal has a little too much leverage on the master cyl; it could stand to have the stud where the push rod hooks, moved about ¼ of the way toward the pivot. As it is, the whole clutch is way up at the top, and it's almost impossible to push all the way down. But it releases just great.
The T-5 line WILL NOT work. It's nearly a foot too short.
3rd gen pedals work fine for me. Although, the pedal has a little too much leverage on the master cyl; it could stand to have the stud where the push rod hooks, moved about ¼ of the way toward the pivot. As it is, the whole clutch is way up at the top, and it's almost impossible to push all the way down. But it releases just great.
The T-5 line WILL NOT work. It's nearly a foot too short.
#7
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Car: 85 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.6
Transmission: 5-speed
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
You can get the hydraulics from your local stealership for less than that. I think I paid about $125 for mine.
3rd gen pedals work fine for me. Although, the pedal has a little too much leverage on the master cyl; it could stand to have the stud where the push rod hooks, moved about ¼ of the way toward the pivot. As it is, the whole clutch is way up at the top, and it's almost impossible to push all the way down. But it releases just great.
The T-5 line WILL NOT work. It's nearly a foot too short.
3rd gen pedals work fine for me. Although, the pedal has a little too much leverage on the master cyl; it could stand to have the stud where the push rod hooks, moved about ¼ of the way toward the pivot. As it is, the whole clutch is way up at the top, and it's almost impossible to push all the way down. But it releases just great.
The T-5 line WILL NOT work. It's nearly a foot too short.
as you were saying about the the 3rd gen pedals.... you mean the rod could be a little bit shorter basically? i ordered my spec stage 3 and i dont want any issues with it not engauging/disengauging not enough and end up constantly slipping it just a little bit all the time.
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#8
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
No, I didn't say the rod could be shorter. That wouldn't change anything, because everything would self-adjust within a couple of pushes of the pedal, and it would be right back exactly like it was before.
I said the stud on the pedal, where it mounts, could stand to be moved closer to the pivot. That would make the pedal move the rod a shorter distance.
You won't have any trouble with slipping or engaging or releasing. If you've got a good strong leg anyway.
I said the stud on the pedal, where it mounts, could stand to be moved closer to the pivot. That would make the pedal move the rod a shorter distance.
You won't have any trouble with slipping or engaging or releasing. If you've got a good strong leg anyway.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
i see you have 3.70 gears also. i do to, i still have that cablex f/s so it is set up for 3.70 gears with the stock tires. so if you have the stock tires 245 50 r16, then your speedo will be perfect.
#11
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Car: 85 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.6
Transmission: 5-speed
well i have 555r's 275/40/17's on it but should be about the same....i forgot how to calculate how tall the tires are. my friend knows what the formula is. it might be a hair taller.
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i have some stuff for sale on e-bay right now and once it goes off ill get in touch with you.
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i have some stuff for sale on e-bay right now and once it goes off ill get in touch with you.
Last edited by TPIMarow6.6; 04-25-2006 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
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Car: Yes
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Transmission: Sometimes
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i forgot how to calculate how tall the tires are
That will give you the ACTUAL ACCURATE tire radius. Double that for the diameter, if your formula wants diameter instead of radius.
Don't bother with the "trade" size of the tires. It's nowhere near accurate enough, or repeatable from one brand or model of tire to another, let alone for different air pressures or wear conditions.
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 5.7 RamJet
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Dana44 4.10
Originally Posted by TPIMarow6.6
I
Also my second question is. would it be easier for me to convert my speedo to electronic by using a 90-up gauge cluster instead of cable(cars an 85)? or should i go a different route? if everything is the same on the cluster just a connector for the speedo. ill just just the connector, run my own wires and run it to the tranny.... im not sure if thats all i need or if theres more to it than that?
Also my second question is. would it be easier for me to convert my speedo to electronic by using a 90-up gauge cluster instead of cable(cars an 85)? or should i go a different route? if everything is the same on the cluster just a connector for the speedo. ill just just the connector, run my own wires and run it to the tranny.... im not sure if thats all i need or if theres more to it than that?
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