Well I did my conversion Master cylinder install and I think that I came up with a pretty fool proof way to install the clutch master cylinder. I did not have to even remove the brake master cylinder or booster, just shimmy it around a bit as a whole unit.

Here is what I did.

1. Removed steering wheel column and drivers seat. The column was not bad at all one bolt in engine compartment 3 on fire wall and 4 that hold it to the bottom of the dash. Took me about 1/2 hour, however, it really clears things up for the install!!

2. Remove old brake pedal assembly, 4 bolts that hold booster assembly in and one up top.

3. I temporarly instaled the manual pedal assembly with the two lower booster bolts and the one up top.

4. I swung the support rods, the ones that bolt on the side of the pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder u bolt, down and moved insulation away from fire wall and pressed the rods to the fire wall and marked the location of the holes in the rods with a marker.

First picture is the one on the passenger side.

 

This is a picture of the drivers side support rod and mark.

 

5. I removed the pedal assembly and drilled the holes.

6. I made a template up in autocad of the clutch master cylinder to exact size. Also great for making a gasket out of!

 

This is what it looks like over the end of the clutch MC.

 

7. Then I pasted a copy of the template to the inside firewall and drilled a small center hole in the middle.

 

8. Then with a good 1 5/8 hole saw I drilled out the opening.

 

9. Then all I had to do was to slide the clutch mc in from the engine compartment. I had to shimmy the booster assembly a bit but it was a piece of cake.

10. Perfect fit and perfect alignment.

I had a breeze of a time doing it because all of the work was done from inside of the car.

 

I have also attached the template file. It is drawn in autocad you can get Volvo Viewer from autodesk for free to see and print out the drawing if needed. You will have to download the file and rename the file from the .bmp extension to .dwg for the file to be read. It is the only way that I could get it to attach.

 

I think that this method is a real time saver because no real under the hood messing around is necessary. I did the whole thing from start (removing the seats/ column to mc install in about 1.5 hours).

Let me know what you think!

 

Nice write-up. This is something that has NEEDED to be addressed for a long time, but most of us guys who have done auto-stick swaps either don't care (because they've already done it) or don't have time.

Good job! :hail:

 

Hey thanks for posting that. I've been wondering all day long about the best way to do this without misalignment. I know what I'm gonna do this evening.

Thanks again! :hail:

 

thats what we are here for!

 

Nice clutch peddle install piece ... have you a template for a automatic to t-5 shifter install?