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On two of the three 10-bolts I've disassembled in my lifetime, the pinion shaft lock bolt has been broken off near the end of the threads on the bolt.
Why do they do this?
I don't think there would be much force on them...
I don't think that's what caused it, by saying broken off at the end of the threads I don't mean the end that meats the head, but the end that is in the middle of the bolt. I considered that, but I don't think that would break it in the middle of the bolt.
Has anyone else seen what I'm talking about, or do I just have really bad luck?
I don't think there would be much force on them...
The manual calls for 27 pounds. So far I've never experienced a problem. A six-point box end and a dead blow hammer has worked every time. Maybe I've been lucky.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
The bolt breaks from the cross shaft moving around and hammering on it. Most of the time the bolt has a lot of clearance in the hole and the shaft can move a lot. Each time you turn a corner the pinion gears cause the shaft to rotate on the bolt. Sometimes it might hit harder than others. If you look at most bolts that are not broke you will see wear on them. For some reason the 8.5 and 7.5 10 bolt rear ends break more bolts than the old 8.2 and 12 bolt. There is a special tool that is made for removing these broken bolts. I think Mac or Matco has it. I have a link to it on my other computer, but it's broke right now.
The bolt breaks from the cross shaft moving around and hammering on it. Most of the time the bolt has a lot of clearance in the hole and the shaft can move a lot. Each time you turn a corner the pinion gears cause the shaft to rotate on the bolt. Sometimes it might hit harder than others. If you look at most bolts that are not broke you will see wear on them. For some reason the 8.5 and 7.5 10 bolt rear ends break more bolts than the old 8.2 and 12 bolt. There is a special tool that is made for removing these broken bolts. I think Mac or Matco has it. I have a link to it on my other computer, but it's broke right now.
If you could find the link or remember the name of the tool please post it. I have a broken pinion shaft bolt that I'm trying to remove... PITA! Any ideas really appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
I've read that after the bolt breaks and has no torque on it, it can be removed with a pick.
JamesC
There's about 1/4" of the tip with a few threads left on it of the lock bolt still down inside the carrier. I tried a pick but can't get it to budge. I read to grind into the pin, past the bolt and push the pin out, but I don't want to do any more damage than I have to.
Thanks for finding the link! I bought the kit. I will post back after it arrives and I've tried it. Since the pick didn't work, this seems like the easiest solution, at least compared to every thing else I've read today.
Of the two broken bolts that I've had to remove, one just pulled out with a magnet, since it had broken off after the threads, and the other I was able to spin out with a pick, it broke off with about one thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head
The bolt breaks from the cross shaft moving around and hammering on it. Most of the time the bolt has a lot of clearance in the hole and the shaft can move a lot. Each time you turn a corner the pinion gears cause the shaft to rotate on the bolt. Sometimes it might hit harder than others. If you look at most bolts that are not broke you will see wear on them. For some reason the 8.5 and 7.5 10 bolt rear ends break more bolts than the old 8.2 and 12 bolt.
I'll accept that explanation. Thanks everyone!
I'll order that tool next time I plan on disassembling a 10-bolt, the one I had to back out with a pick took about 2 hours.