stuart69427

Has anybody made either of these work. I know that our lower radiator hoses get in the way cuase the come out at an angle (well not the 3.1 L's if i'm not mistaken) and the only way to install them is to get a V8 radiator and hoses.

My problem is that I just installed a new radiator a few weaks ago and I don't want to buy another one!!! I need to install the brace becuase im already getting squaks when I do hard turns. I want to install a brace to prevent further damage.

Should I get the Mounting checked to make sure I haven't already got damage? How would I check myself? What are the signs?

TomP

Well, squeaks on a hard turn might not be fixed with a Wonderbar.. to check if your frame is cracked, you need to remove the steering box. It could be another suspension piece, or maybe you just need a lube job. I've read that if the frame is cracked, you hear a "pop" when making a sharp turn... not a squeak.

89camaroRSV6

i get a click when i turn ..but only at slow speeds ..not fast ...fast speeds nothing at all..

also the clicks are more when the car is cold...??

what could the click be?

RealDeal

i have the same problem..... no clue what it could be, but i'd love to find out...

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The stock wonderbar wants to go through the center of
the lower rad hose ('92 3.1L). Since the bar (GM) was a tad
bent anyway I modified it.

I sawed the bar off of the end plates (right at the end
plates). Then welded a new bar on (Home Depot water pipe).

The new bar welds on lower and forward of the stock bar
locations. This is where the end plates are on the upward
angle. To picture this, once the wonderbar is on the car
the new bar is lower and more forward.

There was only slight interference with the lower rad hose.
It was easy enough to push the lower hose bracket upward
a little.

Oh, don't forget to paint the bar after the fitting and welding.

RBob.

TomP

Wait; I thought people with 3.1's had no problems putting the wonderbar on? It interfered with your rad hose too? Hm. Wait... what side is your lower rad hose on? On my car, it's on the driver's side, and the lower rad outlet is angled downward.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Radiator outlet is lower pass side. Hose comes out, across
bottom, then back toward engine and into the pump on
the drivers side.

This is a '92 3.1L Camaro.

There is a small sheet metal bracket mounted on the bottom
center of the fan shroud. Hose rests in this for support.

RBob.

stuart69427

That's what I thought too
btw - I have the same configeration.

Nobody has said anything about the GLobal West Steering Box Brace and how it installs.

Tom,
The lube job and the TB cleaning is the only things I have left to do before I finish your "Major Tune-up". I have been putting that off. Any brands of grease or type/brand of gun would you recomend?

Maybe I'll do this today after work If I can, that is...

89camaroRSV6

comeon guys no one wknows whats this noise???

TomP

Well at slow speeds the click could definatly be the frame behind the steering box.. how slow is slow? I don't know why the problem would be worse than cold, though. Try asking (or searching) on the Suspension/Chassis/Brakes forum.

Stuart, you could use any kind of grease; but if you don't mind spending an extra couple dollars, you could buy a synthetic cartridge. There was a debate a long time ago about the incompatibility between organic grease and synthetic grease- but the debate has since been settled. Turns out that both are lithium-based, and the "base" is what matters (as far as compatibility is concerned). The synthetic "marine grease" (which is clear, extremely sticky, and does not wash away) would not be compatible. I use the Valvoline Syntec cartridge. Make sure the cartridge says on the back "compatible with GM". Most greases are compatible with both GM and Ford and Chrysler, but it doesn't hurt to double-check.

I'd go for the larger grease gun if you can; get one with a flexable hose (or buy the flex hose separately). The flex hose makes things much easier to get at, especially for the inner tie rod ends. (Remember to give the zerk fittings a quick wipe with a rag before putting the gun on 'em, so you don't shove a ton of dirt into the joint.) A grease gun can get tricky sometimes if air gets trapped inside... hopefully you won't see what I mean. If air gets trapped, grease won't come out. The box of the gun should give solutions for this. I usually unscrewed the cylinder from the gun cap, pushed on the "trigger" from the back of the cylinder, which makes the grease cartridge pop up, then I screw the cylinder back onto the gun cap, and give the handle a few pumps... basically you just fck with the thing until it gives grease again.

89camaroRSV6

slow = less than 20mph

maybe even slower ...

whats the solution if the frame has problems