Removing smog pump...
#1
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Removing smog pump...
Has anyone disabled/removed their 2.8's smog pump with no ill effects? I'm wondering if a few crank horses can be freed up by removing the pump from the belt system. Just a thought...
#2
A lota guys have done it, one guy even said he had a better sniffer test with it disconected. Mine was locked up when I got the car, the former owner had just removed the belt. So you could just remove the belt & see if you can tell a diffrence. I think that a well tuned engine that gets the best fuel milage will couse the least polution. Less fuel burned = less polution.
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
The belt that drives the pump is also driving the alternator. Should I remove the pulley from the pump, and get a shrter belt, or remove the pump all together?
#4
go here and look at the header pics. i have the new belt length recorded and the new routing in pics.
www.geocities.com/generationxracing/MainPage
www.geocities.com/generationxracing/MainPage
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by BackInBlackGP
The belt that drives the pump is also driving the alternator. Should I remove the pulley from the pump, and get a shrter belt, or remove the pump all together?
The belt that drives the pump is also driving the alternator. Should I remove the pulley from the pump, and get a shrter belt, or remove the pump all together?
86 auto did not have a smog pump so just get a belt for an auto. just remove the somg pump pully.
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Mines removed on my s10. I get the "raw fuel" smell like older carbed trucks do. Does add a few ponies on the TBI models
#7
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Gumby: Yes, it's a 5spd Borg-Warner.
Dale: My car ALREADY stinks of raw fuel!!! Ain't it great!!!
Thanks guys! I will pull the pulley off, and replace the belt for an auto.
Is there any harm in leaving the pump installed in the car, or should I remove it as well?
Dale: My car ALREADY stinks of raw fuel!!! Ain't it great!!!
Thanks guys! I will pull the pulley off, and replace the belt for an auto.
Is there any harm in leaving the pump installed in the car, or should I remove it as well?
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Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by Camar_Hunter_c
Uh 2-3 bolts and a plug is a pain?... took less then 5 minutes to remove mine.
Uh 2-3 bolts and a plug is a pain?... took less then 5 minutes to remove mine.
what all is down there behind the pump, looks like a few canster things or somthing.
I even went out n looked and it looks like it may not be as tight as before, but still cant see much down there or beinhd it. I removed all my ac crap the other day so it might be a tad easier. car has been down a week or so waiting on a stearing wheel pivot pin puller.
mine is still good, what do them things cost new??? sell mine for 10 buck on ebay or something.
#11
Originally posted by Gumby
Is it that easy? It just looks like its tight. Think you would need to jack it up and get at all that junk under it.
what all is down there behind the pump, looks like a few canster things or somthing.
I even went out n looked and it looks like it may not be as tight as before, but still cant see much down there or beinhd it. I removed all my ac crap the other day so it might be a tad easier. car has been down a week or so waiting on a stearing wheel pivot pin puller.
mine is still good, what do them things cost new??? sell mine for 10 buck on ebay or something.
Is it that easy? It just looks like its tight. Think you would need to jack it up and get at all that junk under it.
what all is down there behind the pump, looks like a few canster things or somthing.
I even went out n looked and it looks like it may not be as tight as before, but still cant see much down there or beinhd it. I removed all my ac crap the other day so it might be a tad easier. car has been down a week or so waiting on a stearing wheel pivot pin puller.
mine is still good, what do them things cost new??? sell mine for 10 buck on ebay or something.
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I looked at the whole smog pump assemby, and it (appears) that there are objects in the way of simply removing the pulley, and installing a smaller belt. I will go ahead and try and get a belt tomorrow, but I still don't know...
#13
Originally posted by BackInBlackGP
I looked at the whole smog pump assemby, and it (appears) that there are objects in the way of simply removing the pulley, and installing a smaller belt. I will go ahead and try and get a belt tomorrow, but I still don't know...
I looked at the whole smog pump assemby, and it (appears) that there are objects in the way of simply removing the pulley, and installing a smaller belt. I will go ahead and try and get a belt tomorrow, but I still don't know...
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I looked at the photos in the link above... It does not look anything like under my hood. I've found over time, that the body on my car is '86, and most of the underhood stuff is '85. The car was 'born' in November of 1985, and the 1st owner took delivery (I think) sometime in Decembe '85. (I am the 2nd owner.)
I have 2 belts, the one in question drives the alternator and the pump. It is a narrow serpentine belt, with no idler pulley. The other belt only drives the power steering pump, which is located under the cradle for the AC compressor that is not there. (What should be there is a belt driven centrifugal supercharger, IMO... )
I ordered a short Gatorback belt today... I will pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully I can sneak it between the pipes that route around the front of the engine from the smog pump...
I have 2 belts, the one in question drives the alternator and the pump. It is a narrow serpentine belt, with no idler pulley. The other belt only drives the power steering pump, which is located under the cradle for the AC compressor that is not there. (What should be there is a belt driven centrifugal supercharger, IMO... )
I ordered a short Gatorback belt today... I will pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully I can sneak it between the pipes that route around the front of the engine from the smog pump...
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Car: 1983, 1986
Engine: 2.8 2bbl, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 200C 3 speed, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.42
Get a belt for an 85 Camaro with air and automatic. It should do the job.
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
DONE! Well, the exhaust isn't any more stinky, but at least I'm not spinning my useless air pump... It was nice of Pontiac to put the fiber washers under the pulley screws, it made removal a snap!
The belt has a lot of vibration and slack in it on the long side between the crank and alternator pullies. I will have to build an idler for it some day...
P.S. Goodyear Gatorback belt #4040490 $15.69...
The belt has a lot of vibration and slack in it on the long side between the crank and alternator pullies. I will have to build an idler for it some day...
P.S. Goodyear Gatorback belt #4040490 $15.69...
Last edited by BackInBlackGP; 10-17-2002 at 04:28 PM.
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
If you've removed your air pump, you know there is a "leftover" pipe that heads around up under the exhaust manifold... Can it be removed and plugged at the source, or should I just cap the pipe with a silicone cap and clamp?
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
I removed the smog pump assembly a week or so back... Pics and all.
Whole Slew of Things.....
That's when I removed mine. If you have A/C, then you need a 91.5" belt.
Remove the AIR tubes as well on the driver's side exhaust manifold. You will need 1/4" threaded pipe plugs to block the holes left.
Whole Slew of Things.....
That's when I removed mine. If you have A/C, then you need a 91.5" belt.
Remove the AIR tubes as well on the driver's side exhaust manifold. You will need 1/4" threaded pipe plugs to block the holes left.
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Cool... I'm going to leave the EGR intact, as I don't want to damage the engine from predetonation... My engine uses the v-belts, and I've already installed the shorter belt after removing the smog pump pully... Now I just need to pull the pump itself out, so it doesn't seize up... I'll have to take a closer look at the air tubes in the manifolds... Thanks for the tip!
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Originally posted by BackInBlackGP
Cool... I'm going to leave the EGR intact, as I don't want to damage the engine from predetonation...
Cool... I'm going to leave the EGR intact, as I don't want to damage the engine from predetonation...
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Can I simply cap the vacuum line to "simulate" the EGR removal, and try it out temporarily to see if I like it?
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Certainly... assuming you have a good egr valve, that'd work.
One thing - you won't notice any performance increase with the egr gone. I did it for two reasons -
1) Easy access to my spark plugs
2) No more carbon buildup in the intake.
One thing - you won't notice any performance increase with the egr gone. I did it for two reasons -
1) Easy access to my spark plugs
2) No more carbon buildup in the intake.
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Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Carbon, not so bad in my car... I cleaned it (the TB) once a few years ago, and I've not noticed a huge buildup since, so IMO, I don't see it as much of a problem...
Spark plugs... The only one that requires a jumble of extensions and swivels is #6, right under the brake booster... Other than that, the rest are much easier than the plugs against the firewall of our 3800 Grand Prixs... (Which you can't even SEE, anyway!)
Good EGR valve; Depress diaphragm by hand = stalled engine, right? If so, than my original 18 year old EGR valve is in fine shape!
Spark plugs... The only one that requires a jumble of extensions and swivels is #6, right under the brake booster... Other than that, the rest are much easier than the plugs against the firewall of our 3800 Grand Prixs... (Which you can't even SEE, anyway!)
Good EGR valve; Depress diaphragm by hand = stalled engine, right? If so, than my original 18 year old EGR valve is in fine shape!
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