How to Rebuild Your 60* V-6 Distributor The Ea$y Way....! Boogie On!!
10-10-2002, 01:08 PM
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How to Rebuild Your 60* V-6 Distributor The Ea$y Way....! Boogie On!!
I have been requested to re-write my Distributor Rebuild Article. I searched myself & couldn't find it, so I must have offered that response as another persons answer.
How To Rebuild Your 60* V-6 Distributor the Ea$y Way.....
Boogie On
IF you have the distributor out, here's how.
It's truly simple
By the distributor gear (that's driven by the cam, which turns that steel shaft connecting to the oil pump in the oil pan. Timing chain turns the front cam gear connecting to the gear off the crankshaft), you'll see a roll pin in the shaft housing
Knock that out.
Everything slides apart now.
You are to replace all you can
Modular
circle thing around shaft with wire block plug
Now onto the shaft here's how to "fix it"
Obtain sand paper & brake cleaner.
Spray the shaft & sand paper, start polishing the shaft
You can tell when you are done. Take your finger nails and feel for any nicks, also. Take a
metal file to smooth all nicks on shaft.
Insert the shaft into the housing.
Feel smooth?
Good
Now spray the Brake Cleaner into the Distributor Housing. Insert the shaft to help remove the
remaining previous film of grease/lubricants.
Dry out the housing by compressed air or keep spraying & let air dry over night
Next get some axle grease & apply a FILM of grease on the shaft, insert into housing, spin
until free & smooth, move it up & down, too.
Feel proper yet?
Good
Next is all eyes and fingers.
See that pointy item & the spinning shaft part?
Make all the spacing EQUAL AND CLOSE do it by eye & ear.
If you hear a clink, move that pointy part back gently.
Also take DRY sandpaper to this part, you want as little dirt rust etc as possible. Be real about
the results & you will know when it's clean and adjusted correctly.
Make sure the grease is ONLY on the shaft going into the housing and reassemble.
Then insert circle part (with the wire plug on end) on housing-FIRST, re-insert shaft, insert roll
pin at base/gear & you are done.
It truly is that simple.
No adjustments except eye & feel & cleanliness!
Removal of distributor if you do not have removed from engine is just as simple.
Bring your engine to TOP DEAD CENTER NUMBER ONE CYLINDER (first one, passenger side of
engine block), then remove the distributor.
BUT FIRST NOTING
Location of wires exiting from the housing
POSITION OF THE ROTOR before distributor removal from engine (it's pointed toward the
front left of the engine).
ONCE THOSE TWO DETAILS NOTED HOWEVER YA CHOOSE (drawings, pics, etc). remove the
distributor.
You did make notes how the plug wires were on the cap, right? (mark distributor cap housing with the firing order for easy re-assembly by magic marker, tape, etc-do same to plug wires-use tape & mark the tape)
Dab some axle grease on the distributor gear, reinstall the distributor, in the EXACT SAME POSITION AS REMOVED, and it will fire right up!
Congrats on a great job done!
Cost for distributor rebuild EXCEPT FOR necessary ELECTRICAL PARTS, is almost free.
Carb or Brake Cleaner, sand paper, maybe a metal file.
How To Rebuild Your 60* V-6 Distributor the Ea$y Way.....
Boogie On
IF you have the distributor out, here's how.
It's truly simple
By the distributor gear (that's driven by the cam, which turns that steel shaft connecting to the oil pump in the oil pan. Timing chain turns the front cam gear connecting to the gear off the crankshaft), you'll see a roll pin in the shaft housing
Knock that out.
Everything slides apart now.
You are to replace all you can
Modular
circle thing around shaft with wire block plug
Now onto the shaft here's how to "fix it"
Obtain sand paper & brake cleaner.
Spray the shaft & sand paper, start polishing the shaft
You can tell when you are done. Take your finger nails and feel for any nicks, also. Take a
metal file to smooth all nicks on shaft.
Insert the shaft into the housing.
Feel smooth?
Good
Now spray the Brake Cleaner into the Distributor Housing. Insert the shaft to help remove the
remaining previous film of grease/lubricants.
Dry out the housing by compressed air or keep spraying & let air dry over night
Next get some axle grease & apply a FILM of grease on the shaft, insert into housing, spin
until free & smooth, move it up & down, too.
Feel proper yet?
Good
Next is all eyes and fingers.
See that pointy item & the spinning shaft part?
Make all the spacing EQUAL AND CLOSE do it by eye & ear.
If you hear a clink, move that pointy part back gently.
Also take DRY sandpaper to this part, you want as little dirt rust etc as possible. Be real about
the results & you will know when it's clean and adjusted correctly.
Make sure the grease is ONLY on the shaft going into the housing and reassemble.
Then insert circle part (with the wire plug on end) on housing-FIRST, re-insert shaft, insert roll
pin at base/gear & you are done.
It truly is that simple.
No adjustments except eye & feel & cleanliness!
Removal of distributor if you do not have removed from engine is just as simple.
Bring your engine to TOP DEAD CENTER NUMBER ONE CYLINDER (first one, passenger side of
engine block), then remove the distributor.
BUT FIRST NOTING
Location of wires exiting from the housing
POSITION OF THE ROTOR before distributor removal from engine (it's pointed toward the
front left of the engine).
ONCE THOSE TWO DETAILS NOTED HOWEVER YA CHOOSE (drawings, pics, etc). remove the
distributor.
You did make notes how the plug wires were on the cap, right? (mark distributor cap housing with the firing order for easy re-assembly by magic marker, tape, etc-do same to plug wires-use tape & mark the tape)
Dab some axle grease on the distributor gear, reinstall the distributor, in the EXACT SAME POSITION AS REMOVED, and it will fire right up!
Congrats on a great job done!
Cost for distributor rebuild EXCEPT FOR necessary ELECTRICAL PARTS, is almost free.
Carb or Brake Cleaner, sand paper, maybe a metal file.
Last edited by KED85; 10-10-2002 at 08:28 PM.
10-10-2002, 02:22 PM
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
Wow, thank you Karl, I'll be sure to add this to my guide! Been waiting for you to re-write that for a while!
This is one of the best things to do to your car. It really helps out a lot! Karl knows what he is talking about too!
This is one of the best things to do to your car. It really helps out a lot! Karl knows what he is talking about too!
10-10-2002, 02:43 PM
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Hope it's going ok out there.
Get your car back from them?
I hope your tranny mission will work out well for ya.
Hurts, but,
These days...
Tranny jobs cost half as much as an engine rebuild
Get your car back from them?
I hope your tranny mission will work out well for ya.
Hurts, but,
These days...
Tranny jobs cost half as much as an engine rebuild
10-10-2002, 07:16 PM
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
little side bar for ya: those dioing the 3.4 swap allready get a "new" distributor gear. 
05-10-2003, 11:16 PM
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Came across this post while doing a search, i' getting ready to do a rebuild of the distributor to see if it will solve my problem. Couple of questions, are there any other electronic components to change other than the module and the pick up coil? Do I reuse the old roll pin? If so should I spread it a little first b4 tapping it back in?
I may and try to do this tomorrow if my back feels up to it.
I may and try to do this tomorrow if my back feels up to it.
05-11-2003, 01:51 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
There's nothing else electrical about the distributor.
Yes you re-use the old roll pin. If you want to spread anything it's up to you; I doubt you need to; I didn't need to when I rebuilt mine back in '99, and it's still holding up.
If you have a valve feeler gauge ($5 at any auto parts store, looks like a swing-out pocketknife), use that to get an exact distance setting between the reluctor and pole pieces.
Yes you re-use the old roll pin. If you want to spread anything it's up to you; I doubt you need to; I didn't need to when I rebuilt mine back in '99, and it's still holding up.
If you have a valve feeler gauge ($5 at any auto parts store, looks like a swing-out pocketknife), use that to get an exact distance setting between the reluctor and pole pieces.
Originally posted by TomP
With the distributor out of the car, spin the distributor gear. It'll spin somewhat smoothly. After rebuilding it, and when you finally put the gear back on, and adjust all the pole pieces to the same distance, spin the distributor gear again. You'll feel it "pulse" as the magnets attract the pole pieces with more strength than before.
The pole pieces don't have to be rust-free since they don't make an electrical contact. I'd still use a fine-grit (320 or 400) paper on the pole pieces (fingers) tho, because the less rust in between the pole pieces and magnets, the stronger the magnetic pulse. The magnetic pulse is picked up by the circular white (or in your current distributor's state, decaying yellow) "pick-up-coil". This pick-up coil senses the magnetic pulse, then sends that signal to the black ignition module.
With the distributor out of the car, spin the distributor gear. It'll spin somewhat smoothly. After rebuilding it, and when you finally put the gear back on, and adjust all the pole pieces to the same distance, spin the distributor gear again. You'll feel it "pulse" as the magnets attract the pole pieces with more strength than before.
The pole pieces don't have to be rust-free since they don't make an electrical contact. I'd still use a fine-grit (320 or 400) paper on the pole pieces (fingers) tho, because the less rust in between the pole pieces and magnets, the stronger the magnetic pulse. The magnetic pulse is picked up by the circular white (or in your current distributor's state, decaying yellow) "pick-up-coil". This pick-up coil senses the magnetic pulse, then sends that signal to the black ignition module.
05-11-2003, 02:03 AM
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When I use the feeler gauge what clearance am I looking for?
Thanks
Thanks
Originally posted by TomP
There's nothing else electrical about the distributor.
Yes you re-use the old roll pin. If you want to spread anything it's up to you; I doubt you need to; I didn't need to when I rebuilt mine back in '99, and it's still holding up.
If you have a valve feeler gauge ($5 at any auto parts store, looks like a swing-out pocketknife), use that to get an exact distance setting between the reluctor and pole pieces.
There's nothing else electrical about the distributor.
Yes you re-use the old roll pin. If you want to spread anything it's up to you; I doubt you need to; I didn't need to when I rebuilt mine back in '99, and it's still holding up.
If you have a valve feeler gauge ($5 at any auto parts store, looks like a swing-out pocketknife), use that to get an exact distance setting between the reluctor and pole pieces.
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05-11-2003, 02:21 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
The thinnest possible you can use, without causing them to touch. The stronger the magnetic "pulse", the better. You'll notice by doing the "before & after" spins.
05-11-2003, 02:18 PM
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ok i have a new module and pickup coil. do i need to find my distributor wrench or can you get to the hold down bolt with regular wrenches or sockets? Its been so long since I had to use my distributor wrenches that I'm not sure where the hell I placed them.
05-11-2003, 04:05 PM
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Car: 1990 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1L v6
Transmission: Automatic
distributor wrench? just use a 15mm socket and swivel attachment. or u can buy a 15mm socket that has a swivel built onto it if u cant get clearance w/ a socket and swivel seperately.
05-11-2003, 06:16 PM
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Ok I figured out the 15mm part while digging around for a wrench, did the rebuild. Even tho I marked things with whiteout b4 pulling the distributor I still managed to get the timing retarded. I had a hard time getting it started but after awhile it fired and I set the timing to 12 degrees. Drove it around awhile and my problem with it flashing the CEL i time with a miss is still there, just now it so far only shows when I drive it hard, basically floor it and as I go over 4k it does it, after that I can pull a code 42. So back to the drawing board.
05-11-2003, 06:19 PM
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so besideds the modual what else do you need to replace ? the modual that i bout a bout 4 mounths ageo should still be good right? also what are you talking about sanding down ....the peace that looks like a star? with the points? and just clean the shaft real good righ..that it? thanks..chirs
05-11-2003, 06:33 PM
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You'll need a pickup coil. yeh sand the star shaped thing lightly just to get clean metal. You'll just need to do it where they almost touch, just very light sanding on the two surfaces that almost touch.
05-11-2003, 10:39 PM
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Engine: LH0 3.1L
Originally posted by Shok
You'll need a pickup coil. yeh sand the star shaped thing lightly just to get clean metal. You'll just need to do it where they almost touch, just very light sanding on the two surfaces that almost touch.
You'll need a pickup coil. yeh sand the star shaped thing lightly just to get clean metal. You'll just need to do it where they almost touch, just very light sanding on the two surfaces that almost touch.
Some of these guys will disagree with me to no end about this subject, but it can go bad and it's not a full rebuild without replacing it.
Reason #1- The magnet can get weak.
Reason #2- The magnet can actually loosen and spin freely on the shaft causing seriously F**ked up timing or the car might not fire at all.
05-11-2003, 10:51 PM
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I agree that a full rebuild means changing that part too. Will it get weak? I dunno. Will it get loose and turn on the shaft? Mine is splined, I can see it getting loose and moving up and down, but not spinning.
I looked for a replacement but could not find one, so I did without.
I looked for a replacement but could not find one, so I did without.
05-12-2003, 09:06 AM
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Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Karl, thanks man, this is definitely good info.. prolly help me out alot.. I'm gonna need all the spark I can get in a month =)
If you don't mind, I'd like to clean up your howto and post it on my server (building a 60 degree tech resource). Credited, of course
If you don't mind, I'd like to clean up your howto and post it on my server (building a 60 degree tech resource). Credited, of course
05-12-2003, 10:39 AM
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PLEASE SHARE THE KNOWLEDGE!!!
CaliCamaro How are you!
Great to see you back here.
YES IT IS IMPORTANT TO REPLACE ALL PIECES!
That includes the magnetic circle pole item, also.
Close is all by eye & feel.
Comparison, try for closer than thickness of matchbook cover!
Yep, weak magnet can destory great effort on a rebuild.
Glad this tip was brought back.
Happy to share for all here.
Please ya got my permission to post this elsewhere to help anyone else save a few pennies or dollars.
Send it to California for our gas pump bills!
CaliCamaro How are you!
Great to see you back here.
YES IT IS IMPORTANT TO REPLACE ALL PIECES!
That includes the magnetic circle pole item, also.
Close is all by eye & feel.
Comparison, try for closer than thickness of matchbook cover!
Yep, weak magnet can destory great effort on a rebuild.
Glad this tip was brought back.
Happy to share for all here.
Please ya got my permission to post this elsewhere to help anyone else save a few pennies or dollars.
Send it to California for our gas pump bills!
05-12-2003, 11:06 PM
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CaliCamaroRS, where do you get that piece anyway? I couldn't find a listing for it at Kragens. Give details please.
Now that everything is together again can I change that piece without taking the distributor out again?
Now that everything is together again can I change that piece without taking the distributor out again?
05-13-2003, 06:37 AM
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
To replace the pole piece the whole shaft is replaced. Just go down to the local GM dealer, they commonly have them in stock.
Another tip is that the gear has a dimple on it so that it is properly aligned with the rotor. The gear can go on two ways so line up the dimple with the rotor tip then drive in the roll pin. Won't keep the engine from running, but will enable the distributor to be placed back into the engine correctly.
RBob.
Another tip is that the gear has a dimple on it so that it is properly aligned with the rotor. The gear can go on two ways so line up the dimple with the rotor tip then drive in the roll pin. Won't keep the engine from running, but will enable the distributor to be placed back into the engine correctly.
RBob.
05-13-2003, 04:21 PM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for the tip, RBob! I marked mine with whiteout when I rebuilt it; but I have to wonder if my mechanic (who rebuilt it 2 years before I tried) did that. I'll have to look for that dimple on my spare distributor in the basement.
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