jacob_coulter

I have an '86 2.8 with the e2se carburetor, and the car stalls out when it has just started. It will start up fine, but when I try to accelerate, it dies.

The carburetor is a relatively new, remanufactured unit that was a drop-in, exact replacement. I'm wondering if I need to have it dialed in at a shop with a scope.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

8492bird

Are you sure it's an '86 - I thought '85 and up were all MPFI. Anyhow- my '84 with the 2 barrel carb has always done that stalling when cold routine, even when it was brandy new. As near as I've been able to determine it's a function of the choke being on - the engine just does'nt seem to have enough of whatever to function under load until the engine warms up and the choke opens.

jacob_coulter

It must be an 84 type engine (its a relatives), because it has the 2 barrel carburetor with the 2.8 engine.


The stalling is really bad for the first 5 minutes, almost undrivable, and I live in a warm weather climate (AZ).

I'm thinking it's something worse. I've heard EGR valves can cause this cold stalling, I may try a new one.

The electric choke doesn't look like it's adjustable.

There are no check engine lights coming on. I have access to a good obd 1 scanner, maybe I'll give that a try and see if any of the readings look off.

Any additional help would be greatly appreciated.

8492bird

A bad or stuck EGR will cause warm stalling too, so I seriously doubt that's the problem. I still think it's the choke, and you're right there's not much adjustment there. If the car runs fine when it's warm, I'm 99% sure the stalling is choke related. Take the top off the air cleaner and see how long it takes for the choke to fully open. On a cold start the choke will close, even in AZ.

BTW - you need to find out what year engine/car this is for buying replacement parts. Check the 10th digit of the VIN number - "E" is '84, "G" would be '86.

You said the carb is a remanufactured unit - take another look at the choke cover. If it's held on with screws you can adjust the spring tension by loosening the screws and rotating the cover. IIRC rotating clockwise will decrease the tension and the choke will open sooner.

jacob_coulter

If the car is stalling out, my guess is that the engine needs a richer mixture, so I would want more choke (less air), so I should rotate the choke coil counterclockwise to close off the air.

Is my thinking correct?

The problem is, the choke coil has ridges in the plastic part that line up with the metal in the carb, so it seems there is only one position you can set the choke in, it looks like it is impossible to make any adjustments.

I plugged the EGR port on the Carb to see if it made a difference, and it did stall much less, but it didn't completely solve the problem.

Thanks again for all the help, if anyone has any other suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

IMO, this is backwards. But I've not worked on carbs.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Bypass the choke altogether and see if it matters. It's really not intended to be adjusted anyway, from the factory it would be mounted with rivets and be keyed so it's not adjustable.

The stalling you describe may very well be the choke doing what it's supposed to do. When the engine is cold the choke raises the idle and closes off the incoming air. Until the choke disengages the engine won't be able to develope maximum output. If it starts cold, it's probably not choke related.

All the sensors and CC parts on that carb do virtually nothing. It would probably run decent with all of them malfunctioning or even disconnected. I'd be looking at the filter, fuel lines, fuel pump, and ignition.