XxSgtReillyxX89

I got an idle of about 2,000 i took a quick look at the TB and seriously i can't find the idler screw. I feel kinda stupid asking about this but I'm gonna waste so much gas and I'm dropping a motor in a Toyota truck and my dads getting up my but about that, and he won't let me near my car unless I'm going out to get something.
please help

2.8RS

iTrader: (5)

You may have a vaccum leak also for it to idle high. The screw is on the driver side of the TB.

projectz28rs

does it have an aftermarket fuel pump?? if you do, check the adjustments and specs on it, if it pumps too much, sometimes the computer speeds up the rpm's so it dont flood out. rare though

XxSgtReillyxX89

I don't think i gotta vacuum leak and i don't have an A/M pump today when i was driving it the idle returned to about 1,000-800 then after a while it went up to 3,000!!! then settled back down to 2,000 after a while. i see the idler but how to adjust it, but for right now I'm leaving it alone till i get a scanner on it and the y-pipe fixed.

I have a crack in the y-pipe right before the O2 sensor so i think that might have to do with something and i think thats why the check engine light is on too. So i need to find a welder to use to see if i fix that problem. But then the Idiot light sometimes flickers and the engine sputters. So i want a scanner on it and no backyard crap with the paper clips I'm too retarded to count the blinks.

I can tell the car has been neglected before i got it, and I've been putting additives in the tank to see if it changes the lousy performance I've been having. I'm thinking the injectors and valves have so much s**** gunked up on them that it could be the reason why i can't accelerate as fast as a Chevy 20 van. The tranny is due for new fluid as well.

Hey thank guys for your help and opinions.

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

dont mess w/ the idler screw. if the car idled fine when it was new without messing w/ that, then that means that theres something wrong. ive talked to a guy who worked for toyota, and one for GM, both said i have no idea why they put that screw in there, but dont ever touch them. if it idled fine before and doesnt now, that means theres something wrong and messing w/ that will just band-aid and eventually screw up more stuff.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...ght=tom+p+tune
try this too, this has helped anyone who has done it, you cant go wrong w/ starting at the basics.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

there's a vacuum leak somewhere...

You may have to check the lines going to the charcoal canister and the vrv that runs that. Also your 3.1 has a digital egr valve. If the stainless pipe that runs from the egr to the throttle body is cracked then your idle will go nuts as well.

XxSgtReillyxX89

Well today it was wet out and you guys know how cars perform a little different well instead of idling high it was stalling out. And i learned that the hesitation only happens when its running hot. I know i was doing wrong but i just got in my car and went this morning and i had great acceleration. Then after 2 lights it sucked. So i think it has to do with the crack in the exhaust thats right next to the O2 sensor and its screwing up the sensor causing all the non sense. So knowing that, tomorrow I'm bringing it in to my school and getting it welded. And if it still happens after that I'm putting a scanner on it from work cause I'm burning up fuel like a 70 Chevelle.
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When i bought the car it idled fine then it sat for about 2 months {but of course i took it for an illegal spin} but everything seemed peachy when i did but now im thinking the crack in the exhaust has to do with it. I did the tune up already and changed what needed to be changed the cap and rotor looked new so i replaced the wires and plugs and i changed the fuel filter.

boostedv6

Sounds like your idle air controller needs to be replaced.

ken3983

Yeah...my 3.1 idles high as well. I've sprayed tb cleaner to find a leak to no avail. Answer me this, I got the Y air intake off a 88 2.8 Camaro. I gutted the sensor out of the tube that goes between the air filter housing and the rubber piece that connects to the throttlebody. Where the tube and the air filter housing connect, it is broke a little and not all that tight. Would this be considered a leak? I mean the air is coming in after the IAT sensor but before the IAC valve. Would that cause a high or rough idle?

Ken

xgtharo86x

iTrader: (1)

u might me loing power to your acceleration due to the lack of maintanice on your tranny...if your low on fluid and the engine gets hot it tends to slip..id drop the pan and change the filter and and new fluid..or go to the shop and get it flushed to save it...tony has the same prob wit his car...and if u step on the gas it takes a while to go back down...also check your o2 sensors

XxSgtReillyxX89

I think i might do a flush today after work and were also testing out a knock sensor code we got when we hooked it up.......and that knock sensor is retarding my timing and stalls the car out.........i got the y-pipe welded and it turns out that wasn't the only leak.......my right exhaust manifold has 2 broken bolts from what i could see right now......now that I've been trashing the suspension around turns just to see if something will break in the future the rear strut plates are squeaking and the sway bar in the front is completely off (it was off when i got the car)"fixin that Thursday" then this Sunday I'm devoting all day to fix the leak cause i can't stand having that car be called a P.O.S. by the Honda's. So by next week imma have some acceleration.

Hopefully