hokiefanatic93

I recently purchased my first camaro after years of wanting to get one. I found this camaro that has been restored for the most part and has a recently rebuilt engine in it. but for having a V6 this car seems to be guzzling down gas. i've been averaging 12-13mpg and i've honestly managed to be light footed on the gas because it still isn't insured yet . i know the only problems it has is low low oil pressure when the car warms up, the water pump leaks because the bolts holding it on need to be re-thread, and the engine fan doesn't turn on but the owner says that he may have bought to cold of a thermostat. other things i noticed is that the headlights tend to dim and brighten when idling but this is probably not the reason for the poor gas mileage. what should i be checking to figure out why my gas mileage is so poor. another symptom is that when it is still warming up and i give it gas when it's at rest, the car seems to bog down for a second then regain it's power and drive like normal. the problem goes away when the car warms up a bit.
Thank you.

Edit: moved https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...ileage-v6.html

Andrew James

iTrader: (3)

Why is it not insured?

hokiefanatic93

i bought it like two weeks ago and just havn't gotten to it yet.... i probably should soon though

Project 3.4 Camaro

Not wise, what happens if you hit a $100k car....I've never driven a car that wasn't insured. Nor would I, not worth the risk.

ex-x-fire

Put a correct t-stat in it, should have a 195*, these are best for mpg.
Is the tune up parts good? Air filter clean?
Clean the maf sensor. Do a resistence test on the coolant temp sensor, looking for ohm/temp specs. google 'GM cts ohm values'.
Any codes?
Get a fuel pressure tester, auto zone rents them, check the pressure while its running (36-42 psi or so) & while the engine is off. It should hold pressure at 38-45psi for a while. If it goes right to zero then you might have a bad fuel pressure regulator or a dirty injector(s) thats allowing unmetered fuel into the engine.

hokiefanatic93

Thank you for all of that, i'll look into these.

hokiefanatic93

well it may still be insured by the people we bought it from so that 100k car will be there problem . but i'll get my own plates and it registered to me sometime this week. but all of this is besides the point.

Project 3.4 Camaro

Warm the car up, and turn the heat on, tell me if the heat is at all hot, if the heat sucks then chances are the tstat is too cold, which could cause mileage issues, so could bad plugs if the spark isn't strong enough to completely ignite the fuel/air mixture, I would replace the spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and oil, I would also check the vacuum lines, and the timing.

hokiefanatic93

the heat does warm up but not as warm as any of the other cars i have, next week i'm fixing the water pump leak and while i have the antifreeze out i'll replace the thermostat to. and as a side note the coolant temperature gauge doesn't work on the car so i'll need to look into that to. the car just got a oil change when i bought it and i replaced the air filters. i'll add the spark plugs, fuel pressure, vacuum lines, and the timing check to my do to. O and another symptom is that when it is still warming up and i give it gas when it's at rest, the car seems to bog down for a second then regain it's power and drive like normal.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The reason the heat isn't as hot is because you're losing coolant... Pressure can't build in the system and bring the coolant up to temp due to the leak. I'm going to assume you're filling the system with water because if the water pump leaks, you're probably spending tons of money on antifreeze if you aren't. Which is another reason why the heater is weak. Fix the water pump and then worry about the thermostat if things don't get as hot as they should. The coolant temp sender is above the power steering pump in the corner of the cylinder head. The connector slides off.

As said above, change all fluids and filters, check the vacuum lines and hoses for breaks and degradation (if you touch it and your hand comes out with black chalky stuff, you need new lines), change the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.

And, while you have the air filter out, remove the filter can and the MAF sensor next to it. Then, as was said above, use MAF sensor cleaner on the orange film, let it dry, and then look at it against a light. The film should appear to be completely flat. If not, you need a new one. Also, check for trouble codes. I forgot to mention one thing: DOUBLE CHECK FOR CRACKS OR BREAKS IN THE INTAKE DUCTING, especially the rubber bellows. The orange film in the MAF sensor WILL need to be replaced VERY soon if any are present. It is VERY sensitive to a damaged air duct.

Andrew James

iTrader: (3)

I've had mine for three yet I insured it from day one. Get liability at least, you'll be ****ed when you wreck some guys Porsche, or get pulled over.

87 transam

that is the most ****ed up thing i have heard in a while you should not be driving with someone else tags on the car and if you had it for two weeks that is plenty of time to get it taged up you are something else and if you dont have respect for outher poeple then why should someone have respect for you

camarosrock1989

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys I think he gets the picture on how important it is to be insured.
I have a 2.8 and it runs great, I was suprised at the gas milage also after buying it.
Not much better then the V8. I only have 54 thousand miles on my car. So can't give you much advice. Other them next time buy a V8, I am searching for the right one!
But will never get rid of the 6

hokiefanatic93

i know have it registered to me and insured... happy every?

hokiefanatic93

know i'm taking the water pump off to put on a new gasket and re-thread the bolts if needed. but i'm having difficulty getting this one torx screw that is behind the water pump wheel. do you guys know how to get to it? thanks

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

Remove the pump pulley.

hokiefanatic93

when i try doing that the pump pulley just spins. i put the belt back on hoping it would hold the pulley still but it still spun.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

Use an impact driver, strap wrench, or just two wrenches.

hokiefanatic93

alright thanks

hokiefanatic93

one last question.... how do you take the pulley off the power steering pump, do you just pull really hard? or do you need to pry the piece off at the end holding it on? or am i just completely wrong with this...

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

Why are you removing the power steering pulley? What does that have to do with a water pump?

hokiefanatic93

there is a bracket covers one of the bolts on the water pump and to remove the bracket i need to also take the power steering pulley off so i can unbolt the bracket which would enable me to get to the one torx screw being covered up by it

ex-x-fire

I think you can unbolt the p/s pump itself, theres a nut at the back too.
I always remove the p/s pulley, but I have the correct tool to do it, you can rent one at auto zone. Dont use a 3 jaw puller b/c you'll bend it.

hokiefanatic93

is it something like this?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=141495_0_0_

ex-x-fire

Yeah, thats it. Cool that'll install the pulley too.

Aaron_SK

iTrader: (1)

Never had to pull the PS pulley, always worked around it or unbolted the entire pump and swung it off to the side.

Project86B4Z

I have an 85 Camaro Spt Cpe 2.8 with 92 gfx and 16" Iroc wheels with 235's on the rear with a 3.42. I average around 29 to 30 MPGS HWY and roughly 22 to 25 in the city here are some things i have done to help:

Changed Throttle positioning sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor (next to the thermostat)
195 thermostat
My car came w\o a cat converter
Advance base ignition timing from 10*BTDC to 16 to 17nish BTDC
K&N air filter(s) if u have a Tuned port injection dual snorkel like me
Clean or change the mass air flow sensor
AC Delco Rapid fire spark plugs
new wires
new ignition module and coil

other things to consider u say ur lights brighten and dim and the car seems to bog at time...this also continued to happen to me even after getting a brand new battery and alternator. I discovered that this was due to the junction behind the radiator on the passenger side closer headlight make sure the bolt is tight or the fuel pump and alternator will shut down on you when it vibrates lose. Also be a good idea to get some throttle body cleaner, remove the hose from the throttle body and soak the inside of the body and the blade and get to scrubbing. There should be no carbon left on the blade or body.

I warn afterwards your idle will be extremely high because now there more air flowing through the intake. You need to turn down the idle by unplug the IAC control start the car back the stop screw by the lever until the idle is between 750 and 500 rpms. Shut the engine off plug in IAC start the car...if warm and in closed loop the engine will smoothly hold idle around 850 to 1000.

Your 2.8 should have a lot more pep in the step, easier starting and alot more gas mileage. The more efficient and which in turn gives you more torque, the better the gas mileage.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You'd be getting better mileage with the timing set to where it's supposed to be and by junking the RapidFire plugs (you must like throwing away 250% of what a spark plug for your car costs per plug). If I can get 30 MPG highway throwing a code 45 for rich exhaust on a 3.1 with a higher overdrive gear (700R4 in your car has a .70:1 OD while my T5 has a .76:1 5th OD) on a 3.42 peg leg, you can do better than that. 195 thermostat is stock, BTW.

And no, if you install aftermarket high-flow air filters in your air box, you don't need to adjust the idle. The ECM does this automatically... Never had to touch the idle adjustment screw on mine when I put the high-flow intake and filter on it.

Besides, this is a 4-month old post... I don't think he really much cares any more.

hokiefanatic93

I just put a 195 thermostat in yesterday and i got the error code 34. So far alot of things are pointing to the mass air flow sensor. I'll check for that bolt behind the radiator because i'm still having the dimming lights issue and it shutting off. I should probably re check my gas milage because i also found the transmission mount was broken. I put a new one on and then a new fuel filter. My car seemed to have alot more power after doing that. I also have replaced many gaskets on my which seem to help a bit. Basickly while the past owner got car running again, he did a really sloppy job and re used old gaskets and used the wrong bolts to hold things on. I've justabout fixed all of these problems and my car is running better, but still have the problems i had before but just not as frequently. To sum it up the car was cheaply "restored" and the main problem i face now are the dimming lights abd it still bogging down when i accelerate after starting the car. It rarely shuts off now but seems to do it if i go from reverse to drive quickly or if i'm in a parking lot or traffic and lightly touching the gas pedal to move forward. Sorry for any gramatical errors because i wrote this all on my phone.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

When you go to check the junction block by the radiator, the MAF sensor relay is right above it. Swap it with one of the relays by the brake booster to see if the MAF behaves. If not, pull the sensor and look inside the engine end. If it's dirty, you can buy MAF cleaner, just make sure the sensor is dry before you reinstall it. If the orange film in the board is bent (may look like a skate ramp or the surface of a lake), it needs to be replaced.

If the PO of your car reused old gaskets, chances are he didn't think to check the vacuum lines and hoses. Leaking vac lines can be another cause of a code 34 (low air flow), so, if you haven't checked or replaced them yet, you might want to. If you touch one of the lines with a clean hand or finger and it ends up black, the line is degrading and needs to be replaced. And so do the others, most likely, except the one on the brake booster.

Project86B4Z

with the the rapidfire platinum in my experience are alot more responsive at a feathered (light throttle) than the standard iridium plugs even at the stock 10* ignition timing. My engine can handle the 16* timing on 87 octane without pinging im guessing because its catless and yes i've had it higher than that before which caused misfiring, pinging, backfire through the intake, cold stumble and stalling. I also around 70 MPH i barely have to push gas to maintain speed climbing a hill . I like the K&N's because i'd rather clean a filter rather than buying one since i live in a dusty area. I would like have to have the tranny rebuilt since there's mysterious leak a and harsh late shifting when cold even after adding extra fluid at times...most likely cause of my mileage plateauing around 30 MPGS.

redneckcamaro

read this link i had the same problem then fixed it with this info in this link
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...ing-issue.html

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Stock Delco R42TS plugs are COPPER, not iridium... The reason it's more responsive is because you advanced the base ignition timing . Again, no benefit to paying $6 for a $2 plug. Which is why, instead of the RapidFire plugs that were installed in the 3100 cylinder heads I'm putting on my 3.1, I'll be putting on copper ones instead.

I didn't say that the filters were bad, but your adjustment of the base idle speed WAS... The filters also give the engine more responsiveness, not the platinum plugs (more air into the engine) .

hokiefanatic93

I checked on the MAF and it is wavy. where is there a good spot to find another one?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Well, you could go and get a parts store one, but I guarantee you'll be replacing it again when you don't want to (I've had 2, both went bad in about a year). Scour eBay and other places for a GM MAF. It may or may not cost more, but it will be made the way it's supposed to be.

hokiefanatic93

i also found one vacuum hose line to be mildly deteriorate on the outside and leaves my finger black after touching it. it is only about a finger length long. should i bother replacing it?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Double-check the other vac hoses, especially around the charcoal canister (those tend to go first due to the fuel vapors) and also the hardlines. Make sure the T in the back of the plenum is tight, and also make sure the valve covers aren't leaking along with the PCV valve grommet and tubing (the nipples on the ends of the idle air bypass pipe go bad easily).

hokiefanatic93

So my gas mileage still sucks (12-13 mpg's). Replaced old vacuum lines, new brake calipers because they were cheap and the old ones were sticking, new struts, cleaned MAF sensor (may still be problem in my mind), changed 180 thermostat to 195, rebuilt the throttle body, new fuel filter, oil change, and rebuilt transmission and is now mounted down ( the mount use to be broken). The only symptom they I have left is the car stuttering when I first start it (usually just when sitting outside. Like after school after the car has been sitting outside all day is when it stutters) one time it was misfiring for like 30 sec but it has never done that again. I spent a lot replacing and fixing all the other problems and I really don't want to just throw more money into a new MAF sensor and not have it help. The orange strip is the sensor is slightly wavy which is why I have a feeling that it is starting to go bad. I checked for codes and nothing came up. Fuel pressure is good and hold when the car is off so there is no fuel leak. The timing seems to be good and the car runs much better since the throttle body rebuild but my gas mileage only had about 1 mpg improvement. What do i do next? Buy a MAF or take a look at some other cheaper options?