87bluebird

sorry this is a long post.. my car is a base model 2.8 v6 87 firebird.... a couple months ago my battery started dying out on me while driving. i played with all the wires for the alternator and battery cables and it worked for a few days then i drove to Rochester and she died again goin down the 390. well i drove home that night with everything shut off no lights radiator anything. lucky the cop laughed at me and used his car to push mine to a gas station.lol car would go bout 5 miles off a jump start and 5 min charge off someone else's car with everything shut off on mine then battery would die and i would find someone else to jumpstart me and go another few miles. after that fiasco i replaced every battery and alternator wire and wired in a second batterie like a diesel truck.. both batteries are new alternator is only year old and was tested at advanced auto bout a month ago and was still good.. but i cant get it to charge my batteries if i plug the car in to a charger and charge batteries they hold a charge. and 2 full batteries will get me bout 50 miles before running out of juice. i have searched searched and searched some more on alternators. and tried a few things like i jumped the sensing wire straight to batteries didn't change anything. all my fuses are good and i replaced the relay by the door buzzer that i was told runs the alternator. a couple times when i was driving battery gauge went to 18 volts and charged the batteries for a min but then went away. this is our only vehicle right now i need to fix it fast and i have no money so any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated thanx

Adrenaline1

iTrader: (1)

Alternator tests can give false results at times, or so i was told when my new battery died on me after being told my alternator was fine (it most certainly wasnt).

firebird904

Like Adrenaline1 said, those tests aren't always accurate. I had one that was a POS right out of the box and they swore up and down that it was fine. If it isn't the alternator itself then you may have better luck in the electrical section. In my experience a bad connector can cause this issue I had it happen to me when I had my old 90 bird. Good luck.

87bluebird

i just got another alternator under warranty still dont work... but i think i finally solved it the brown wiring going to the alternator has no power so i got to find another switched 12 volt source to feed it and hopefully that fixes it..

what would be a good source to tap into to power it?

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Yes you do need a 12volt supply for the alternator to work below 500rpm but also make sure that with the battery disconnected, the positive wire should have atleast 12 volts, if not you might have a bad fusable link, Plus you need to have an isolator if you going to run two batterys, one other thing to remember is you need grounds. One time I put a new motor in my car, new battery hooked up and all and new alternator, it kept dying, so I had a ground from the motor to the battery but no wire from the ground to the body, so since the motor mounts are rubber it wouldn't ground and hence no charging.

87bluebird

i have several ground wires car is grounded good both batteries have a motor and chassis ground. what kind of isolator do u mean? i only have the second batterie in so i can go further off a charge without the alternator. i aint decided yet if i will keep it in after i finally fix the alternator problem. why do you say below 500 rpms? car never goes below 600rpms? and right now with the battery disconnected i got 0 volts and car dies instantly..

and i had the old alternator tested 4 times and this new one 2 times all times came up good and i got the senor wire hooked directly to the primary battery as well as i direct wired the alternator main wire to the primary battery and i still got the main alternator wire going to the junction power distribution block by the radiator.

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

I said below 500rpm cause, almost all gm alternators will start charging after they hit 500rpm, I could be wrong about this so look into that, anyways the 12v ignition on truns it on right away so make sure thats on.

But if your saying the car shut right off once you remove the positive battery wire, then you need to look at the fuseable links.

Oh and an alternator can not charge two batterys at the same time, you would need a battery isolator, just do a google search and you will see what I'm talking about.

87bluebird

can i wire the brown wire to a switch on the dash like i have my radiator fan? i have been looking on alot of sites on how people who convert there cars to these alternators run that wire to a switch and a light to give it resistance. i only need to keep this v6 working a little bit longer and i have spare switch already screwed to my dash that was running my reverse lights before i finally found and fixed that short.

what i am thinking is bring a wire from the positive side of the main battery, thru a fuse to the switch, then thru a light bulb then back out to my alternator. would that work? i know its hack job repair but i am so tired of fighting with this thing idc anymore i will do anything to make it work like the second battery and jumping the sensor wire. i just need to have it run without constantly charging the batteries and finding someone to jumpstart me.lol

87bluebird

right now the brown wire which is supposed to be the switched 12 volt source off the ignition to feed the alternator is dead no power i have tried bypassing the fusible links before to test them and it did not change anything and i will probably unhook the second battery if i can get the car to charge. then i will be able to put my air filter and charcoal can back

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check the coolant fan relay by the brake booster... The alternator wire is spliced into the FAN fuse wire there, and I've noticed over in the Electrical board that a lot of guys have been having problems with the brown wire getting damaged due to overcurrent and heat (mine did the same but still worked). If the radiator fan doesn't work either (jump ALDL A to B and the fan should come on when the SES starts blinking), then you have a fault between the fuse panel, C100, and the fan relay.

87bluebird

the radaitor fan died last winter i replaced the relay and fan and it still would not worked so i wired the fan to a switch i mounted on my dash.. and theres i think 5 relays and i got that thing i am guessing for cruise control tucked into that corner not much is were it is supposed to be under my hood with the original fan wiring being removed how else can i test that?

today i took a spare third brake light i had laying around and use it as a test light and as i thought yesterday brown wire is dead so i clipped the one wire on light to positive on battery and other wire on light to the brown wire to feed the alternator and when i did that battery gauge jumped to 17 volts right were it always used to be i used the light to give resistance so i didn't fry the alternator. can i wire that to a switch on dash like i did radiator or is there another switched twelve volt source with enough resistance i can tap into?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

There's no resistance at the brown wire... The TAN wire is the resistance wire (and is not used on later models). That's why you're overloading the alternator at current, because the light bulb is pulling down the power coming into the regulator. Ditch the light bulb.

87bluebird

the tan wire is there on mine i have not messed with it.. what do you mean overloading at current? and would it work to wire the alternator brown wire to a switch? or is there something else i can wire it too?

87bluebird

also according to the wire diagrams on atgo the brown wire runs to the c/h fan fuse? is that correct

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Dude you can just cut the brown wire at the alternator and crip on a eye terminal, then bolt it to the back of the alternator, to the terminal that feed the battery.

BUT thats if all else if fine AND just by your description, your problem lies somewhere else.

So say my car is fine and everything with the charging system is fine, now lets say one day my brown wire get fried somewhere in my harness and I just dont have time or feel like fixing it the right, the you could just do as I said above.

You also said the you have a switch for the fan, did you hook up a relay with it?

does the wire (fat wire) on the back of your alternator go directley to the battery or a junction block?

Almost all moden alternators work the same way, if it has the voltage regulator in it, then once its spinning over 500rpm, then 12-14v should be coming off the lager terminal that goes back to the battery, not always directly but it does one way or another ( junction block, dash fuse box, some how). Most need a 12v igntion on feed to turn on the regulator.

So my car is running, I have my multimeter, in my hand, I check the back of the alternator, it should read about 13-14v,if not what does it have? 12v less? nothing?if nothing thats your first problem cause that wire need to feed the battey and if theres not voltage then theres a break in that wire, if not check the 12v feed that turns on the regulator, does it have 12v?, no! then jump a wire to the back terminal (fat wire), now check voltage output again.

87bluebird

i thought brown wire was a switched 12volt thats why i have not done that to it yet.. and thats how i hooked the red senser wire its now hooked with an eyelet to main charging screw..

no i just have a wire goin from battery positive to fuse to switch then to the fan and back to battery negative... does it need a relay?

i dont got a multimeter so i cant test voltage and i got 2 wires coming off alternator charge terminal screw one feeds junction block like factory and when the problem first started i added the other one going straight to my battery..

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

First you probably fried your electrical system with that fan hooked up with out a relay, Second you need to in vest in atleast a cheap muiltmeter or someting to read voltage, without one how can you check voltage?


And yes you need a relay for that fan, your lucky you didn't start a fire.

87bluebird

well the fan has worked like this for a year?? electrical system was fine till a couple months ago what kind of relay would i need to add to it? and how do i add it? and i will replace the whole harness when i swap motors in a few months till then i just need the car to run and charge so i can go places to try and find money to fix it and pay bills... idk much but electronics and wiring thats y i am having a hard time figuring this out... and only way i know voltage right now is the bat gauge i put in my dash a while back.

87bluebird

ok can some one give a clear answer to what the brown wire is? i cut it and left it unhooked and now car charges perfectly i tried hooking it to the charge screw and the alternator was buzzing which i assumed meant the, i cant think of the word right now, thing in back of alternator. was always on if i had it hooked liked that and it would drain my battery. and thats when i tried leaving it unhooked and starting the car.. what should i do with the brown wire?? leave it unhooked or find a way to fix it? can it be fixed?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If the brown becomes disconnected, the tan wire next to it becomes a backup. Which probably means that there is power on the brown wire, but not enough. And yes, with the brown wire hooked to the BAT terminal, the module will NEVER shut off and will drain your battery (and probably cause other issues). With the way you described your charging situation in the first post, the brown wire has a bad connection, probably at the fan relay. All you need to do, most likely, to get the fan and alternator working again (the way they should instead of the way you have it now), is go to a place that does car alarm systems and buy a relay and connector to replace the fan relay and connector. Cut the bad parts off of the wires leading into the relay, and put in the new connector. I have a pair of relays from an old Avital alarm system on both my fuel pump and fan relays and have no issues. It's cheaper to replace a $5 universal relay than a $15 manufacturer-specific relay.

The brown wire is the primary power source for the regulator (basically the power side of the "relay" inside the regulator). If it becomes disconnected, the TAN wire next to it becomes the backup and feeds the regulator on cars so equipped (not all cars have the tan wire).

87bluebird

what size relay is needed and can u tell me were to find a wiring diagram for that circuit? cuz fan wires are completely gone and idk where alternator wire is going. will it be fine to leave brown wire cut and taped for now?

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

You need a 4 wire relay, 50a, the two fat wires are the power feed. So the one of those fat wires goes to the batt, and the other goes to the fan, the two smaller wires are to turn the relay on, so one wire to a ign. on feed and the other to a ground, if your using a switch to turn on and off the fan then put the switch between the ign on 12v supply and the relay.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

1. 50A is overkill for a single fan... I have yet to see a fan relay rated over 30A. Mine is a 30A and has been running (well, with the exception of the fact that the harness has been out of my car for a year and a half) for 3 years (or better, I don't remember when I replaced the relays).
2. Orange is a feed either from the junction block or from the starter. I believe it's from the starter, but I can't swear to it without looking in the FSM. Yes, both come indirectly from the battery.
3. Ignition feed TO the relay is brown. Grounds FROM the relay are GREEN (with a white stripe, just like most other relays), and there WILL be 2 of them. The second one is for the switch in the back of the passenger's side cylinder head, by the lifting eye (V6).
4. DO NOT put the switch on the power side of the relay. Keep in mind that the BROWN wire from the FAN fuse also powers the alternator, if you fix the fan relay. You turn the switch off, and you turn the alternator off as well.

Why install a switch to control a relay (which you will also need to install) if you can just replace the relay and connector and get it working right? That way you won't have to worry about either the radiator fan OR the alternator.

87bluebird

how do relays work? how does it know when to turn the fan and alternator on? relays are the little bout 2 inch rectangle boxes that are on the firewall by the brake booster right? i replaced the one connected to the fan wiring when i realized it was not working and it still did not fix it... i have a few extra of them i saved off the parts car when i replaced the wiring harness almost 2 years ago there in my center console still.lol does it matter which one i use and can i just make a new circuit for this cuz the old is so messed up? what gauge wire do i need? and could someone please draw up a simple wiring diagram explaining how to wire it? electrical is something i aint good with but i can i follow a diagram. lol

rusty vango

man,i know youre a working man and all but cars like yours i see in my shop often.usually AFTER the owner has done all manner of really bad things to their wiring.and when i have returned their wiring to factory condition THEN theyre like 'how much???

87bluebird

lol right now idk care bout the disaster of a harness i just need the thing to work and not catch fire till i get the money up to get another vehicle to drive while i finally put in the 350 and 5 speed that are sitting in my garage. then i will get a new wiring harness from painless or someone. till then i am just doing anything i can to keep her tired v6 and half dead auto trans running and driving down the road. so i can get to work...

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Yeah 30a would be fine for one fan, I was thinking of my dual setup.

I would not give him colors of wire cause not all relay kits use the same colors, its better to learn how to read the relays schematic on the relay its self to wire it properly and I'm not telling him to use a relay, I'm just trying to make him curious enough to maybe want to learn what and how a relay works.

All I said was if you dont want to fix the car the right way you could use a relay.

And why cant you use a switch between the live side of the relay to turn it on and off? Just about every relay in a third gen is turned on (or better stated actuated) by ing. power and not ground.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I gave him the STOCK wiring colors so he knows what to match the relay terminals up to.

NO relay on ANY car is controlled on the POWER side. The switch or controller module (BCM or PCM in newer cars) that actuates the relay is on the GROUND side of the relay coil, which receives constant power either from the ignition switch or a constant battery source (switched for fuel pump and some coolant fans, constant for headlights and the auxillary fan on the V8 thirdgens so equipped). Just like the ECM in our cars controls EVERY solenoid (canister purge, EGR, air conditioning compressor clutch, fuel injectors) on the GROUND side. Again, if he were to fix the fan relay properly and put the controller switch on the POWER side of the relay coil, which is fed by the FAN fuse under the dash and also feeds the alternator, he would also be turning the alternator's regulator off, failing to charge the battery (in most cases, except that the tan wire might possibly take over, coming from the dash cluster instead).

A relay is a switching device. It takes in a little bit of current on the coil side, so that the control switch doesn't have to deal with the large current being controlled, and turns on a separate internal switch magnetically (relay coil is an electromagnet that pulls on an arm that connects the switch arm and the internal switch contact) to connect a large power source to the intended device (coolant fan, compressor clutch, etc). Think of the starter solenoid, which is essentially both a solenoid (like the fuel injectors, doing mechanical work moving the starter clutch) and a relay in one. There is NO WAY the ignition switch alone can handle the 600 battery amps (average, a lot have less on 4 bangers and others have more) going through to the starter motor, so the solenoid has an EXTREMELY large set of contacts that are engaged when the ignition switch is turned to the START position to connect the full power of the battery to the starter motor itself.

GreenCamaro13

Hello All, This Will Help you Its a Thread I Posted Yesterday And More Than Likely Is the Same Problem For You>>
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-dyi-info.html

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The average person will have pretty good luck doing that on an alternator in a car produced after 1986. The CS130 isn't called "Can't Service" for no reason. Yes, you can get it apart, but you can't get it back together again without special parts. Your fancy diagram there shows a Delco SI alternator anybody with a socket set could fix. Up to 1986, that is. Just to get it apart, the CS requires wire cutters... How do I know? I've replaced the regulator in my CS130 twice now (first was bad, second because I wanted a better regulator).

:edit: Posted some bad info... I've replaced the RECTIFIER bridge twice now, the regulator once due to low output... Guess I'll be needing the upgrade kit when everything goes back together for the dual audio amps...

GreenCamaro13

Nice, Yes. When i Changed Mine it was Pretty Simple as i Saw. Got a torque wrench undid screws, got new brush, installed, and good as new.

This Would probly be this mans problem due to the fact it turns off and then after a charge it runs ok but then dies all of a sudden.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I hate to bust your bubble, but you're wrong. The reason the car dies is because the alternator isn't charging due to an external wiring problem. The same problem a lot of people lately are having with their 20+year old wiring, that the wires at the fan relay burn up and fail to work, killing power to the regulator, so the regulator fails to turn on. Which means that no matter if you replace EVERY part in the alternator, it's not going to charge the battery.

Seeing as how the car is an 87, like mine, it's not just a matter of opening the alt, removing the diode trio and the brush holder, cleaning the slip rings and brushes and putting it back together again. The wires coming out of the stator get cut, the shield comes off, and then the rectifier is replaced (because you can't get the remnants of the stator wires out of the clamps due to the fact that they're SOLDERED in) before you can even think of getting the brush holder out. And then you need to buy stator wire extensions to put in the new rectifier.

GreenCamaro13

well it worked for me the way i did but yes for older cars you are right, shouldve thought of it more. anyways GL on your car man.

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

I guess I'm wrong, sorry.


Well Maverick you seam to know a lot about this stuff and maybe you can help me out, I use Alldata to do my repairs on my cars at home, this is the fuel pump daigram for my 90 gta.

It looks like to me that the relay get ground all the time from engine at B and the ecu sends power at C to turn on the realy from BA11 12v drive, Am I reading this wrong? or is alldata wrong?

Also one other thing if you can explain to me is, lets say I dont have an electric fan in my car and it came with a clutch fan, I want to put a new electric fan in with a relay cause I just dont want the clutch fan anymore, So I wire my relay from battery to the fan motor, now ideally If this was my car I would use a temp switch in the head or the intake to ground the relay but lets say I just want a switch on my dash to turn on and off the fan, what would be the down side to putting the switch between the ingnition supply power to the relay instead of on the ground side, would this be a problem? cause a fire? overload?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Crap. I always forget about that system. There are rare occasions where the ECM DOES provide power to the power side of the relay coil. However, that is because of the small amperages involved (relays only use half an amp or so on the coil side). Usually, though, the control module provides the ground. For some reason, the fuel pump is the ONLY relay that the ECM controls this way. The fan relay and the A/C relay are still controlled on the ground side.

In your hypothetical situation, without the fan relay coil power source having control over the alternator as well, yes, the switch can be used on either side of the relay coil. Ideally, however, there would be a temp switch in either the cylinder head, intake manifold, or passed through the fins of the radiator, and would be on the ground side (this is the way such kits are wired as according to the instructions in the kit). The manual dash switch would then be used to bypass the temp switch and bring the relay coil to ground when switched ON.

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

How about my antenna relay? does the radio provide a ground to the relay or 12+.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Didn't know about that or the high speed relay for the heater blower motor, but those appear to also be on the power side of the relay coil... I'd guess that's because those are isolated systems that already deal with a decent amount of power. Not sure about the newer cars, though, but I would assume that the heater blower is on the ground side and the antenna relay is still powered by the radio as the radios are pretty much a direct swap for us...

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Oh bro I'm messing with you now, Its obvious you and I both have a fairly good idea about relays and how the electical systems in our cars work, heres what gets me though, we have given 87bluebird everything he need to at least be intrested enough to want to fix his car right, but with out the right tools and some basic understanding of an electrical schematic he maybe doing more damage than good.

when I was a 15 year old kid trying to fix cars with my trusty old test light, I end up do more harm then need most of the time, 20 years later I wouldn't even think of trying to fix a car with a manual in front of me, that I'm not extremely well familiar with.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I hear you there... I got started with some understanding of the basic systems (ancient book), a 96 piece tool set, and a big problem under the outer sheet metal of my car (the whole thing). That $50-60 (it was a gift so I don't know how much it cost) tool set has been expanded to a $1500 set and I'm basically a trained tech that's still looking for work in the field (to gain experience, not much around here unless you've been in the field a while with ASE certifications and I can't afford to move) after owning my car for 8 years (almost 9). I've learned to only trust factory manuals as I've seen plenty of wrong/incomplete info in others. Luckily, I didn't get blessed with electrical gremlins (all physical mechanical problems) between the fenders, but the body work is not something I want to do again EVER (wouldn't have to do it period if the PO hadn't messed it up bad when he took a crack at it!).

His best bet, to fix the problem right, would be to start off with replacing the coolant fan relay and connector. And then get a decent tool set with a multimeter and torx sockets to keep close to the car in case something happens.

Mrs.Crasher0083

So what if you dont have a brown wire....just red and tan/white going into the alternator and your getting power in the run position to the tan/white "F" prong, Red wire "S" prong and the alternator still isnt putting out power but it is when its jumped? Is that a bad relay and which relay. This post has me all F-ed up lol

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Would help to know what year and engine... The wiring does differ.

Generally, you should try to find out if your primary (or only) coolant fan works before you go any further as the alternator is tied into the relay circuit for this fan. Seems to me, however, that you're missing the BROWN wire.

Crasher0083

The car shes working on is a 89 RS 5.0 TBI Vin E. All the fans and everything are working fine. Only problem is the alternator isnt charging. It dont appear that there was ever a brown wire. My 92 RS has the same set up. No brown. All the wires are getting power when theyre supposed to. When she asked me to look at it, I thought it would be an easy fix but Im at a loss. No clue whats stopping it from charging.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I have to beg to differ with you because there is no TAN wire to the alternator on a 92 (from the 92 GM FSM). It's probably faded, and so is hers. There's only the battery black wire, the red wire coming from the starter solenoid, and the BROWN wire. I've had pink wires turn white...

Are you checking for power on the BROWN wire with a meter or just a test light?

If the alternator is working when the BROWN wire is jumped to battery voltage, that means there is a lack of power available in the wire. Which means that you should check the fan relay for overheated wiring (which will be missing insulation on probably the last inch before the relay). Just because the fan works fine doesn't mean there isn't wiring damage there (I know, as I said above, I replaced my fan relay due to this even though the fan worked perfectly). Once you check the relay, unplug it and the alternator, and, using a meter, measure the resistance between the BROWN terminal (at the relay) and the terminal at the alternator. Resistance should be less than 0.5 ohms (I find 0.2 to be quite common). And the fan relay is next to the radiator support, on the passenger's side, tucked in the corner behind the high beam headlamp.

Crasher0083

Yeah checking with a meter and it is a tan/white wire on the 89. It even shows it on all the diagrams Ive looked at. Ill check the resistance on that relay though. I been thinking the whole time that it was a relay. Thanks for verifying that. Im having her check that right now

Crasher0083

She couldnt find the relay so I went out and didnt see any relay in that area either. Its tan with a white stripe coming off the alt and a solid red wire on the plug. The tan/white wire had good continuity up to the c100 where it goes into the firewall. I have however found a tan/white wire hooking into a relay on the drivers side. Its a square relay. It also has power in the run position but when I checked continuity between the alt and where the relay was I got no reading? Im wondering if its a completely different wire. We're 100% sure that the wire is tan/white and not faded. Its about the same color inside the interior where it goes into the firewall and the cars been in storage from 1990-2009. It only has 11,391 original miles on it. The relay with the tan wire I believe is the fuel relay though. I think this because the car wont start without it hooked up but one of the green wires on it does look stripped like you mentioned. If I recall right, in some models dont the fuel relay also control the fan or am I thinking of something else? Im adding the pic of that relay. Its the square looking one in the middle. Also a pic of the connector with the wires that go into it

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The relay you're looking for should be right under the radiator cap, IIRC. I'll need to go out tomorrow and look at the 92 FSM (only one I have with a TBI engine in it) to double check, but it's there for carbed and TPI cars. It has a large orange and large black/red wires in it. The green wires are ECM control wires, don't really need to worry about them at this moment, but I'd get to them soon enough (cover them up) as they can hurt the ECM if they short out.

The tan wire goes straight to the dash, and should actually be on the L (Lamp, used for lighting the dashboard idiot light in cars so equipped) terminal (F is the Field terminal and is BROWN on EVERY car using a CS130 alternator from 1987 to 1995 or whenever they switched to the CS130D, and may still be using a BROWN wire here), and is supposedly some sort of a resistance wire. If you're not finding a BROWN wire, it may be broken off. Only terminal on the older car that shouldn't have a wire in it is the P terminal, I believe. You might take the tape off of the end of the harness loom and peel it back to expose more wire to make sure the wire hasn't broken off inside the loom.

87bluebird

Update on mine still trying to figure out how to wire the relay into mine I am hesitant to mess with it cuz it works right now.lol anyway I was wondering if that could be why when I start the car with the remote car starter it don't charge and if I wait like 15 or 20 mins to get out there the bat will die and car stalls? But as soon as I turn the key on she starts charging. Is having the brown wire cut causing this or could something else be messed up? Also will a bolt flooting in the tranny pan hurt anything? Lol somehow one fell down the dipstick tube? And can someone tell me were the distributor hold down bolt is? I wanna advance my timing a couple degrees.. and last question I got is most cars get better fuel mileage when driving slow why does mine suck the fuel like crazy less than 20 mpg when I drive slow like 30 mph? But gets over 30 mpg when I cruz round 80 90 mph? With it finaly snowing round here I got to drive slow and I am now having to put almost twice as fuel in as I used to...

hatemail72

Loose conection bad ground

87s102.8L

I have a 87 s10 2.8L the alternator is buzzing with the engine off keeps killing the. Battery not sure what to do I found it's coming from the connector when it is plugged in. If I unplug it the battery will stay charged also will run about 2miles then tried to die any idea how to fix this I am stumped