Firebird_305

Hey guys! The title states it. I know I should post in the exhaust section, but I wanted to start here first. 3.1L firebird and I have to replace the manifold on the pass side. SPrayed all bolts down and have the dorman OE direct replacement one for it. Was going to today, but... A few problems.

As anyone done it without the engine pulled? I have room providing I remove the smog pump. Does anyone have any advice on how to remove the manifold? Just need a little guidance to get me confident!

Thanks all

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Best thing to do: DON'T BREAK ANY BOLTS. That's all.

Other than that, you will need a replacement donut for the crossover flange, which you will probably want to drop first.

Firebird_305

Yeah I have been spraying them down each day. I really don't want to pull the engine because I know it can be done without it. My main question is the smog pump. I've read people removing it all together because of fitment for different headers. If that is the case, can I just pull that out and not re install it? What would be the easiest way to tackle this? No room to stick any wrench or ratchet in there anyways

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Better check your local emissions laws before you go yanking the pump... I know that down by NYC, it's probably required. See if you can find a shop that will give you a pass without it.

Yes, to install headers on engines equipped with the AIR pump (yes, 2.8's got it too as a part of a recall for cold starting issues), removal of the AIR is required as there is no connection for the check valve on the passenger's side header.

And yes, you can get the manifolds out without removing the engine. I removed both of mine and replaced all of the junk bolts without touching any engine mount parts.

Firebird_305

Yeah currently messing with it. Having a rough time getting the nuts off of the bracket that is attached to the alt and studs on the manifold. Got one out, can't get a wrench on the other one due to what I believe is a heat shield that is attached to the smog pump pulley and cover a black object. Went to remove one hose and it was for rad fluid so I put that back and just pushed it out of the way. Rough when not having the correct tools but can be done.

I am a NYS inspector so I'll pass my car worry free also live about 30 miles east of binghamton so in the small, small town you can run a car without plates or anything. No one ever bothers you

Any advice man? Remove belt and then just pull the smog pulley and detach components and then buy belt that is shorter? Sound like a good plan?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You're lucky... My NYSI card expired in October and I have no reason to go back to get another one. I got out of school 3 years ago and nobody around here wants anyone with less than 2 years "professional" experience... Never mind I graduated in the top 5 of a 200-person class and have been DIYing my own car since 2003. Maybe when my car is finished...

Yes, yank the pump and all brackets, cap off the pipe at the catalytic converter (or replace it with a higher-flowing cat without the AIR connection), and get a Drive-Rite 915K6 belt (91.5" long with 6 ribs). Route the belt the same except without the AIR pump.

Firebird_305

Ok sounds like a plan! I didn't have a line running to my old cat... I did replace it with magnaflow and once I replace this manifold, I will install magnaflow rest of the way back for good. Well I had the pump out and everything and realized that I didn't have any replacement bolts (whoops!); nor do I have the belt! So I put it back together and sprayed all the bolts and crap again so I can do this thursday morning! The hardest part will be lining up the y-pipe to the manifold (in my opinion now that I see what is going on).

I'm in the same boat. I am half way through my junior year at Binghamton University for Mech Engineering. Try every year to find a decent job, but no one ever hires. So thankfully my family owns a repair shop so I get to work there.

Doing work on imports and tuner cars are easy for me and should be the same concept. What I hate is when things break on my car haha!

Decided to take pictures and a video so I can document this because I'm sure someone will want to do this and having pics/video would give much more confidence!

I appreciate the help man!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

First, all nuts and bolts used on our engines are metric. That said, the manifold bolts are M8x1.25 (and I forgot how long, but I think I used 2" for the shorter ones). I strongly recommend replacing them and using anti-seize on them around the shanks (but not the threads, which I would use locking compound on to both seal the threads and make sure they don't come back out again) so they don't corrode to the manifolds/header flanges.

Yes, lining up the crossover pipe is a PITA. What I do is line it up first without the donuts, get the nuts on the studs a couple of threads, and then shove the donuts in the gaps before tightening everything up. Make sure there is sufficient clearance around the cat before you tighten everything up.

Firebird_305

Yeah I figured that much of it. I hate that it is metric considering it's american car, but it happens. So I'll have to grab those bolts from lowes or home depot. Get those bolts and call it good. Discovered I have 2 missing on the driver side as well so I'll replace them while I am at it. Positive they are missing! I need to get a shorter belt cause the one I got was like 2 inches too long. I have been spraying them down like crazy and if they break off I will be p.o'd!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The engine was made in MEXICO .

Take one long bolt and one short one to the store with you when you go. I'm not sure if split washers will help or not. Hopefully the "missing" ones aren't "broken" off just below the heads.

Firebird_305

Well the back 2 on the pass side are broken flush on the outside of the manifold. The ones on the driver side are just missing. I was able to put a screwdriver in all the way so there is room for it to thread in never the less. The driver side doesn't leak so I don't care much about it. That pass side is loud!! Leaked off the manifold from the start and leaks at the y-pipe now cause a bolt broke so I want to replace it all together! Eventually I will put actual ones on, this is just a replacement to quiet the motor and eliminate 99% of exhaust leaks!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Luckily, they finally make replacement pass side manifolds (sure, I got rid of my heads and manifolds early last year and I'd been looking for a replacement for years before that!) that come with everything needed for installation (except the bolts that go into the heads).

Firebird_305

Hey I have a quick question. I just replaced the manifold. Took my time and managed to break nothing

I was going to remove the smog pump seeing as how i do not need it for the new manifold. However, i ordered the wrong belt and my parts store closed at 1. Can I just put it back, but not wire it up? Also with the EGR, can I just unhook that also since I won't need that? Would result in a SES light correct?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Yes, leave the AIR pump disconnected and acting as an idler until you can get the right belt. Speaking from experience with a harness and ECM from a 91, you WILL NOT set a code leaving the AIR parts unhooked (I don't have ANY AIR parts and never have had other than one bracket that was still attached when the 3.1 was dropped in), but you WILL have a code 32 leaving the EGR disconnected. Even if you connect the harness to the valve and block off either end of the pipes, as the ECM uses the MAP sensor to check for a difference in manifold pressure when the solenoids open the EGR ports (only way the 730 can tell if the EGR is open as there is no vac switch or temp switch on the digital valve).

Firebird_305

I ended up putting things back together so the smog pulley acts as an idler pulley. I kept the EGR connected because until I work out all the bugs, there is really no point in removing it. Man oh man what a HUGE difference this manifold made. No more exhaust leaks coming from the pass side, can now hear the motor and hear myself think. Took about 4 hours (3 hours of waiting for bolts, nuts, etc...). I was very pleased that I didn't break any of the manifold bolts. I did however break a stud for the EGR so I just replaced both with bolts. Without the A/C and without the smog pulley the belt length is 81.5 inches correct? I didn't measure properly and came up with 71.5 inches (realized the mistake I made). I have an 81.5 inch belt that I was going to return.
Worth a shot trying it right?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The thing about when you go to delete both the A/C AND the AIR is that you need to modify the power steering pump mount. The 81.5 inch belt is correct, once you modify the PS mounting by removing the rear bracket and remounting the pump using the other hole where the top bolt passes through into the cylinder head. For the A/C use, the bolt is in the left hole, below where the lower bolt for the compressor bracket enters the PS bracket. The bolt goes into the hole on the right for non-A/C cars, swinging the PS pump in towards the engine and up a bit.

Firebird_305

Ok sweet! I didn't know that and thanks for the tip! I'll do that tomorrow morning. So just to clarify, since I no longer have A/C, the pump should look like it is more inward and up? I remove the power steering pump and replace it by putting one bolt in the A/C spot and the other where it will go. Just want to clarify because not looking at it currently makes it difficult to picture.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

The bolt that passes through the PS pump bracket that goes into the boss on the water pump is the pivot bolt. If you look at the upper mounting on the PS bracket, you will see 3 holes. The top one has threads, and is where the lower bolt on the A/C compressor bracket USED to go into. The lower 2 are the concerned holes. Right now, the upper bracket-to-head bolt is in the LEFT hole. You need to pull the rear bracket off (wrong angle on the bend) and put this bolt in the RIGHT hole. I recommend taking the bolt to a hardware store and replacing it with a grade 10.9 bolt (as mine sheared on me at one point and I ended up running with the A/C bracket reinstalled). If you can find a non-A/C car, that would be better as you would have the correct rear bracket for the pump and more support for it.

I'll have to see if I can get a pic of my old bracket to illustrate...

Firebird_305

Ok awesome thank you for the help! I really appreciate it Mav! I was messing around with it this morning and pleased with the progress. I noticed that a few bolts were stripped so i went and got a slightly bigger size and threaded them right in!

The engine bay looks 100% cleaner and there seems to be so much room. How did you figure all that out?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Mostly? Bad luck. PO of my car didn't take care of anything properly (pass side door wouldn't lock because he screwed with it in such a way that the interior lock rod was stuck and wouldn't move, hatch motor was busted, the issues with the quarter panel, engine oil was sludge when I bought it, tops leaked, all rubber was bad including suspension bushings and vac hoses, air dam knocked off, others which would make a long list...). The A/C didn't work when I bought my car, and with the t-tops, I didn't want or need the hassle of fixing it, so I set about tearing it out (also saving weight, of which I estimate about 200 pounds have been shaved off of the front). I systematically removed pieces of the A/C and ended up with the compressor and evaporator left. Bought a non-A/C blower housing for the firewall and found a non-A/C car at the J/Y to find out how to work the belt routing WITHOUT an idler pulley in place of the compressor (V6 cars DO NOT have an idler on non-A/C models from the factory)... Mostly trial and error and a lot of cursing out the PO is how things are getting done one at a time.