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B&M Megashifter

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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
firedawg225's Avatar
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From: Okinawa, Japan
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 w/Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
B&M Megashifter

Has anyone ever got theres to work through all gears just right?? if i get drive or 1st right on park doesn't line up and the car stays in reverse in park. any ideas or you thoughts. thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2004 | 09:36 PM
  #2  
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From: Iowa
Car: 86 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: built 700R4
i had no problems with mine. try readjusting the linkage at the trans. just follow the instructions. make sure you are in the right mounting hole.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:00 AM
  #3  
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From: Stoneville, N.C.
Car: '88 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4/OD
I've noticed the same thing with mine. I've found that when I shift from drive-to-park slowly, the selector shows "park" when I'm in reverse. But, when I shift quickly, it does alright. Maybe the selector cable is in a bind in the cramped area of the console (i don't know).

While we're on the subject, what is the best way to hook the 2 wires for the idle speed and coverter clutch lock-up (while in park or nuetral) that I did't buy a relay and hook up when I installed the megashifter. I know you can't connect these together full time (you'll burn everything up). Can I hook to a manual switch and use this only when in park while car is warming up?
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 02:56 PM
  #4  
sleeperZ28's Avatar
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From: Iowa
Car: 86 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: built 700R4
lots of people run a manual switch for converter lock up. i dont know about the idle speed.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 04:41 PM
  #5  
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From: Stoneville, N.C.
Car: '88 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4/OD
I don't think these wires have anything to do with converter lock-up. These two wires are orange with black and black with white. With the factory shifter, these were switched together in the neutral and park positions. What they do is lock out the converter clutch and changes the idle speed. My question was, can I hook both of this up to a toggle switch?
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:08 PM
  #6  
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
The thicker wires are the neutral safety switch. You can just hook them together if you want, just be careful to have the car in park or neutral when you try to start it.
The thinner wires are for the reverse lights. That's it. Converter lock up is controlled entirely by the ECM. The idle speed changes because when you put it in park or neutral the engine doesn't have a load.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:28 AM
  #7  
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From: Evansville, IN USA
Car: '89 GMC Pickup
Engine: 383 SBC Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4/VIG 3200
I had a little trouble with that cable but solved it by disconnecting the end with the eye on it and giving it either a half, or a full twist, don't remember now, but it stiffened the cable and has worked fine for 5 years.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 05:11 PM
  #8  
screamin' 85 z's Avatar
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From: Durham NC
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 355 CI n/a
Transmission: 700 r4 w/3500 Coan
My indicator has NEVER worked right..I've tried everything
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 11:30 AM
  #9  
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From: grand haven, mi usa
Car: YTG Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH-350
I've fixed my indicator several time but the cable keeps coming loose. I just live with it.
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 12:01 PM
  #10  
screamin' 85 z's Avatar
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From: Durham NC
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 355 CI n/a
Transmission: 700 r4 w/3500 Coan
Originally posted by brockrodgers
I've fixed my indicator several time but the cable keeps coming loose. I just live with it.
I'm with you...F*ck it!!!!
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 09:13 PM
  #11  
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Mine lines up just fine, unless I start to mess with it. The handle itself has some play and I can move the indicator around a bit, but once I'm banging through the gears it seems to correct itself.

Although, I can't even remember than last time I looked at it. Why do you need it? I'm just going to replace the center console with a 97+ manual console and use a leather shift boot with a chrome shift ball. Don't need the indicator at all.

Laters,
Scott
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Old Feb 21, 2004 | 11:51 PM
  #12  
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I've had mine since I bought it in 97 and it still does not give me any problems.
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Old Feb 22, 2004 | 09:56 PM
  #13  
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From: West Seneca, NY (just outside Buffalo)
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: auto (4L60)
I've had mine for a few years with no problem, but I had it installed at a shop ('cause I usually break stuff or screw it up somehow). It works perfect, but it's REALLY stiff.
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 02:51 AM
  #14  
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
How much play do your shifters have? Mine has way too much, in my opinion anyway. It's acceptable, but I'd prefer it tightened up. It was installed by the previous owner so I don't even know if it's something easily fixed. Every time I've had the console open or off, I've never really taken a look at the shifter.

Also, that 't-bar' "safety" thing sucks. When I first throw it into drive, I have this habit of making good use of the shifter play by knocking it around without shifting it, so the 't-bar' "settles." Sometimes it stays up and if I push the shifer into neutral, it shifts into reverse (happened twice).

Also the 't-handle' sucks. So aside from those 3 problems, and the indicator problem some of you guys have, the shifter is flawless... haha!

Laters,
Scott
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 09:14 AM
  #15  
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
I haven't installed mine yet....I've been reading through the instructions though.....how do "wire up" the detent cable from working? I went ahead and bought the relay from Radio Shack....the wiring dosen't look bad at all.....but I think I'm going to go ahead and use my stock tranny cable...I'll just have to swap brackets with my stock shifter.
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 12:18 PM
  #16  
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From: West Seneca, NY (just outside Buffalo)
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: auto (4L60)
Mine has no play at all. The guys at the shop did a good job with it. It's rock solid -- in fact, when it was brand new it almost took 2 hands to get it out of park.
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 10:24 PM
  #17  
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Nice, then I'm going to check it out thourougly this week when I have more free time.

What about the 't-bar' "safety" thing? You guys have any issues with that? I like the reverse lockout feature, but that little bar is a worthless piece of crap.

Maybe mine's just installed poorly. It does work and does everything it's supposed to do. It's just the stupid play in those things....

Laters.
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 10:12 AM
  #18  
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From: West Seneca, NY (just outside Buffalo)
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: auto (4L60)
No, I personally haven't had any trouble with that safety T-handle.. but that's probably 'cause it was installed so well. It just rattles a little sometimes. But if I had installed it myself it probably wouldn't work very well.
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Old Feb 28, 2004 | 10:53 AM
  #19  
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From: Beaufort, S.C.
Car: 87 GN & 87 T
Engine: 3.8 V6
Transmission: 200r4
That little "T" trigger totally snapped off in my hand one day trying to get the car in gear! When I called B&M for a replacement (lifetime warranty) make sure you save your reciept because I didnt have mine and I had to pay for it-- $18. and wait for shipping. While I was waiting i bought a cheap set of T handle style valve cover bolts (for SBC center bolt covers) and installed one to work the trigger, it worked and looked so well I have yet to install the B & M part.
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 01:24 AM
  #20  
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From: West Seneca, NY (just outside Buffalo)
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: auto (4L60)
That's a cool idea.. Damn, I doubt that I still have my receipt, so I guess I'll be careful with it.
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 03:35 PM
  #21  
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From: Nanaimo, BC, Canada. (West Coast)
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt posi (non 1le)
I hooked the wires up exactly how they said, and my reverse lights still dont work, maybe its those little crap buttons??
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 11:43 PM
  #22  
3rdGenBlackBird's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Originally posted by carfixxer
That little "T" trigger totally snapped off in my hand one day trying to get the car in gear! When I called B&M for a replacement (lifetime warranty) make sure you save your reciept because I didnt have mine and I had to pay for it-- $18. and wait for shipping. While I was waiting i bought a cheap set of T handle style valve cover bolts (for SBC center bolt covers) and installed one to work the trigger, it worked and looked so well I have yet to install the B & M part.
I'm not surprised at all about you breaking that little piece of ****. Was $18 the price shipped? I didn't get ANY receipts when I bought my car so I don't have one.

What exactly are "T handle style valve cover bolts...(center)?"

Wingnuts for center bolt covers? That what ya' mean? Will any of those work or do you have a part number? Thanks!

Scott
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 12:23 PM
  #23  
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From: USA
Mine works great altho I broke the bracket that holds it on the tranny. Had it for almost 3 years now . I got sick of the tbar handle so I went to napa and got an oldsmobile manual black plastic steering ball. Best thing I ever did its alot better than the hot metal tbar handle. Only came out of adjustment once which was when the bracket came apart (guess I hammered it too hard). It is the best thing Ive done to my 84 camaro so far .
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 01:56 PM
  #24  
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
I'm going to install mine in May probably....I hope i get mine in ok using the factory cable...(different bracket)!!
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 02:12 PM
  #25  
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From: Oregon
Car: GM & Jaguar
Engine: Various
Transmission: Various
Axle/Gears: Various
I love mine to pieces. I've never had it break, I spent the time to adjust the little switches, and had no problems with the linkage either. If you take the time to install the cable properly you won't have problems. Also, if you calibrate the shifter for your model transmission, you will have no problems. It's inteneded to be used for both 3 and 4 speed automatics, but you need to set the shifter up to work with the right one, and use the proper indicator plate. The instructions to do so are very simple. When (:sigh:, IF) I drop a T56 in, I will be more than happy to transplant my Megashifter (+700R4 perhaps?) into my '69 Nova. A worthy addition if you ask me (personally, IMO, etc. etc.... ).
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 09:08 PM
  #26  
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
Originally posted by Daishi
I hooked the wires up exactly how they said, and my reverse lights still dont work, maybe its those little crap buttons??

lol i cant get my reverse lights to go out!

hey you guys have problems with the t handles? seems everyone does. all the cars i see with them they are either upside down or sideways. does anyone know how to keep them stright?
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 09:38 PM
  #27  
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
If none of the wiring is hooked up....will the car start and drive? I was thinking of just having a shop install my cable and bolt the shifter down...that way I could do the wiring....
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #28  
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
you must have the N safty switch wired in for the car to start. yeah i should have had a shop do mine also. you can shake my shifter back and forth a little.....is this normal? i have no idea. i hate this thing more and more
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 10:22 PM
  #29  
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
How is the detent cable wired up to keep it from working? I haven't starting installing my Mega Shifter yet....just been going through the instructions....and I'm not understanding how to wire up the detent cable.....so it will work without having to push down the button....
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 10:30 PM
  #30  
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i just tucked mine up into the dash and thought nothing of it. my shifts fine
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 10:33 PM
  #31  
Sickness91Z28's Avatar
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From: Chesterfield, Indiana
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: Jasper 700R4 Stage II
Axle/Gears: 3.23 For Now
Originally posted by Kontrax
i just tucked mine up into the dash and thought nothing of it. my shifts fine

I guess I'm not understanding it.....doesn't it have to be pushed in order to get it in and out of gear? If you just tucked under the dash....nothing is being pushed in...and it won't go in and out of gear without having to push a button....maybe I'm wrong...and I have no idea what I'm talking about....lol
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 10:41 PM
  #32  
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i have no idea. i thought the same thing but the directions said to "put it off to the side" then never mentioned it again. so i tucked it away and forgot about it lol
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 07:59 AM
  #33  
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From: Okinawa, Japan
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 w/Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
ya your right it doesn't use the cable mine just sitting where i left it.
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 09:10 PM
  #34  
IEatRice4dinner's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
Car: IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350/ 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Kontrax
i have no idea. i thought the same thing but the directions said to "put it off to the side" then never mentioned it again. so i tucked it away and forgot about it lol
the instructions say to wire the detent cable all the way in. it will have a little play in park... it's just the way it is.. mine isnt hard to take out of park.. i spent a good 20 min checking the cable adjustments and i have never even done a shifter before... no problems here.
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 11:40 PM
  #35  
HamSpiced's Avatar
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From: Detroit
Car: 89 Camaro I-Roc z
Engine: 305
Transmission: Th700r4
mine lines up fine.... i love it....

gotta love that Hammar shifter handle on it too

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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 08:33 AM
  #36  
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
how do you keep the handle stright? mine moves around and all the others i see are never stright. they are like sideways and upside down and stuff. you teflon wrap it to stay or what?
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 10:35 AM
  #37  
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From: Cheektowaga., NY, USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI LO3
84customZ28 If none of the wiring is hooked up....will the car start and drive? I was thinking of just having a shop install my cable and bolt the shifter down...that way I could do the wiring....
you could do w/out the neutral saftey switch if u wanna do that. Simply turn the key to the run position, put the car in neutral, then start it. You're basically bypassing the neutral safety switch.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 11:21 AM
  #38  
HamSpiced's Avatar
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From: Detroit
Car: 89 Camaro I-Roc z
Engine: 305
Transmission: Th700r4
Originally posted by Kontrax
how do you keep the handle stright? mine moves around and all the others i see are never stright. they are like sideways and upside down and stuff. you teflon wrap it to stay or what?
Locktite.... i didnt use any teflon... teflon is used to create a seal between the threads, not lock them in.....

i used the red locktite... pretty generously, and i twisted it on and let it set for 24hrs...



it sounds like your threads are stripped out... you may want to consider re-threading your shaft, and getting a new handle... the Hammer Shifter Handle has a thread adapter... i jsut rethreaded the shaft to match the thread size and pitch of the adater, i used locktite on the adapter and the shaft, then locktite on the adapter and handle... Hasnt came off yet.
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 04:22 AM
  #39  
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From: Welland.Ontario Canada
Car: 1988 Formula 350
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt...3:27
To keep the handle on tight; I drilled and tapped a 3/16 dia. hole on the front of the handle and put a set screw in to butt against the flat of the shifter handle(there is a flat on the front and back of the threaded handle part). If the 2 flats on the threaded part of the shifter handle were not there; but all thread; then the handle would stay on tight--oh well!!!Cant feel or see the hole and the handle stays on tight!!!!
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 10:57 AM
  #40  
HamSpiced's Avatar
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From: Detroit
Car: 89 Camaro I-Roc z
Engine: 305
Transmission: Th700r4
yea... ill just stick with the Locktite... dont wanna drill into that hammer shifter ****...
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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 01:40 AM
  #41  
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From: Ames, IA
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: Built 700R4
Originally posted by 84customZ28
How is the detent cable wired up to keep it from working? I haven't starting installing my Mega Shifter yet....
If you try to hook up your detent cable to the shifter, you've got a lot of problems ahead of you.
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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 01:19 AM
  #42  
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I just keep tightening the t-handle more and more to get it straight and tight.

Unfortunately, when I'm banging through the gears hard enough, the t-handle will eventually break loose and spin around and around! Kind of annoying when I need to shift it again but it's crooked or still spinning....

I'm just going to order a shift ball with my next jegs or summit order. If it does start spinning I can still grab and shift her!

Laters,
Scott
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 12:15 AM
  #43  
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From: Overland Park in the Great State of KANSAS
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 468 ci
Transmission: thm 350
Don't you guys use the lock nut under the handle?
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 01:04 AM
  #44  
3rdGenBlackBird's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Originally posted by katman
Don't you guys use the lock nut under the handle?
That comes loose VERY easily....

Do you use the ratchet feature much? If not, then it's probably a rare occurance.

I do like the rest of the shifter, though.

Laters,
Scott
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 04:35 AM
  #45  
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From: Stoneville, N.C.
Car: '88 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4/OD
I have mine set up just like the instructions. I use the rachet alot. I've had to tighten the nut a couple of times, but only when I smack it from rev. to drive. It seems to me, these shifters don't like easy shifting. I also have my t-handle turned to fit my hand, so I don't have trouble racheting from 1st through drive.
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 05:28 PM
  #46  
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Originally posted by carfixxer
That little "T" trigger totally snapped off in my hand one day trying to get the car in gear! When I called B&M for a replacement (lifetime warranty) make sure you save your reciept because I didnt have mine and I had to pay for it-- $18. and wait for shipping. While I was waiting i bought a cheap set of T handle style valve cover bolts (for SBC center bolt covers) and installed one to work the trigger, it worked and looked so well I have yet to install the B & M part.
So do you like using the t handle bolt better than the B&M trigger? If you buy that b&m trigger and keep that receipt, will they warranty just that piece forever?

I just broke mine this morning trying to shift out of park. I had to tear apart my center console and noticed a few of the various bolts were missing also. I just stuck a small bolt to keep the main handle on and got to work late.

My shifter came with my car so no receipts here. I guess I need something stronger because I'm really surprised that the t-trigger didn't break sooner....

Laters,
Scott
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Old Jun 12, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #47  
IEatRice4dinner's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
Car: IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350/ 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
im having problems with the wiring through the reley.... i cant believe this little 5amp reley is going to hold the big wires they have to be rated more then 5 amps. i have blown about 2 recomended releys and i bought some 40 ampsand they are arching and making the terminals dirty so it wont always start ... i wanna put the stock shifter back in.

Last edited by IEatRice4dinner; Jun 12, 2004 at 06:44 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2004 | 07:14 PM
  #48  
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From: KC MO
Car: 85Z28
Engine: TPI355,383LT4
Transmission: 700-R4,T-56
i got one the only problem is my reverse lights come on after a month or so then i got to tighten up the reverse light switch and the little indicater plastic piece has a crack in it it came that way JIM91Z your shifter shouldnt be that hard to pull out of park or any geaar mine was like that and i thought its because i ts new but you got to put the tranny in park and the cable should screw in and out EASY then nuetral same you got to put in each gear and check the cable it should screw in and out easily
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