I have looked at just about everything I can find on this board about the stealth RAM, and I have to tell you. I can not wait till I get my car so I can get it......anyways.

Throughout everything I have read about it, I have not seen anywhere about the size injectors that come on the STealth Fuel rail. Does anyone kknow if they are bigger injectors? And if so, would it bne best to get a bigger fuel pump as well? The car I am getting is stock other than some MSD electronics and headers with full exhaust. I figured I would get bolt on stuff and maybe heads next, until the engine blows....at which point I will just get a crate enigine, and add all the bolt ons that I bought for the old engine....ok getting off subject now....lol. (Excited about getting another third gen car, haven't had one in 5 years)

So point being I have a pretty much stock motor that I am going to put the stealth RAM on, and need to know about the injectors/fuel pump.

Thanks.

 

Are you putting it on a car that already has TPI? If so, the fuel rails don't come with injectors. The only way injectors come with it is if you buy the whole stealthram kit to convert a carbed setup over to EFI and then you get manifold & plenum, throttle body, fuel rails, injectors , computer, fuel pump, etc., etc. If you are putting it on an otherwise stock motor with factory TPI, you can re-use your original injectors and fuel pump. At that power level, they will work fine

 

Thank you, yes the car has TPI so I am just replacing that. I will wait till I get the crate motor and all the mods, before I increase the injectors and fuel pump.

Thank you for answering.

 

no problem Also, you didn't mention what year you car is, but be aware that you might have to buy more than just the manifold/plenum, fuel rail kit, and fuel line adapters to install it on your car depending what year TPI you have. You might check out www.stealthram.com if you haven't already

 

yes I have checked it out, car is a 91 TA 350 TPI. I red on this board just about all day yesterday learning all I could about the Stealth RAM (You guys have allot of info on here). According to what I read, all I need is intake, baseplate and rail. Well I will also get the 52mm TB while I am at it.....lol. If I am wrong, let me know, but thats what I get from everything I have read thus far.

Thanks, I can not wait to get the car and start rolling in it.....lol

 

You need all that stuff, and some new fuel lines to adapt your factory ones over on the drivers side (under the master cylinder) to the AN fittings of the stealthram fuel rails. Thats all I needed, and my car is a 91 too, just a Z28 not a TA

 

ty bro, yeah I knew that...I just forgot to mention it.....lol. I found a website that shows what length lines and sizes to get and what fittings.

 

You're stock one will do just fine. Besides, don't give yourself the extra headache of dropping you're fuel tank if the stock one's pressure is pretty solid (after you check it, of course).

I personally wouldn't bother with a crate engine, especially if you're already in possession of an L98. If it's knocking, different story.

 

Thats what I mean, I will do the heads and stiff like that without getting into the block, and once it starts to knock or w/e, then I will do a crate. Last time I built my block myself, but this time I figured I got the dough, but ot the time....so why not do a crate......lol

 

Do you have that website on hand that has the fuel lines and fittings? I am having a tough time finding the parts I need locally.

 

Make sure you get the correct TB. I think it takes the early model 3rd gen. Or you can modify the channel that the cable sits in on the TB arm. I found out too late and ground mine for clearance rather than exchange it. Hopefully I can adapt my stock 1gen linkage which will be easier with the later TB I think.
It's on Stealthram.com if you search for it.

 

If you're L98 is kept at a decent RPM level, and it's oil level, and pressure, are keeping up to par... then there's no reason for her to ever knock.

Sure, you might need to change her piston rings... but this is much cheaper than buying a crate. Even if you have the money for a crate, I would honestly concentrate on building the lower half of my original L98 (forged), then use that same money planned for a crate, to concentrate on it's valve-train (where it's true power lies).

Because you'll need a specific crate. You'll want one with a knock sensor location already tapped for it (down by the oil pan). You might even kill it's warranty if you have one drilled for it after you purchase one without...

You also wouldn't want to plug the sensor into the side of one of the heads in it's place, as the slightest sense of any clacking rocker arm (very common under hard acceleration)... would then cause the timing to be retarted when it shouldn't (loss in power).

Build you're stock L98. Bore it, stroke it... then eventually blow it.

 

hmmmmm, good points. Didn't think of it like that....lol Maybe I will get an L98 block and go ahead and start bulding it now, so that when and if this one goes....I can just swap enignes kinda quick and not have allot of down time. This engine in the car is suppose to be good and kept up good, so I am sure it will last awhile and allow me to at least bolt on from the heads up. I just cant wait to be back in a third gen......lol

Thanks for the help/advice from everyone.

 

Being halfway through an engine build myself, I know exactly how you feel. The only difference is, my car came equipped with a 305-TBI... so I'm forced to deal with absolutely no power, until my 400 is finished.

You however get to enjoy an L98 while you're building you're next engine...

 

Are you kidding me? I have a 1967 327, and it had a drain plug where the knock sensor would be on an L98. I think every small block chevy has the "knock sensor hole" already there -- it used to be a block drain plug waaaay back in the day. I removed the drain plug and inserted the knock sensor, pass. side right above the oil pan. I verified with a bunch of TPI junkyard motors that my 1967 engine had the 1/2" npt hole in the exact same location as the knock sensor -- it did. The L98 has the knock sensor double as the drain plug. Woopee. Any SBC block, any year, should work beautifully as a TPI application block.

 

something i noticed that was overlooked as far as extra parts needed was the angled spacers. The center four bolts that mount the manifold to the heads used a different angle from 87+ heads. The manifold is already slotted, but you'll still need the spacers so the bolts tighten on a flush surface. I had a friend just cut me some spacers out of aluminum. I forget what the exact degrees were for the angles, but 7* and 37* rings a bell... i might be wrong tho, so make sure u check that out.

 

Not if you want to use factory roller cam hardware.

 

'Yeah', I'm kidding with you...

I used the word specific, as I was a little unsure as to how various crate engines were designed. Obviously GM & Edelbock would have it, but I was unsure about the Motown & others...

After speaking to a friend over at Summit, who surprised me when he was a little unsure himself at first (as I'm sure it's not too common of a question)... he concluded that all crates have the drain plug.

Cool? Is everything cocastatic now?