vernw

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I finally ordered the 1205 gasket MiniRam and fuel rail kit this morning. Installing it when I put on the AFR 195 Eliminators late this month. Rest of the car is described in the sig file. Naturally, I've got a couple of MR questions:

1. Fuel lines - does their F-body kit come with the adapters to bolt onto the factory hard lines, or do I need to pick those up?

2. Cam choice for my 383 - a good buddy (or three) is telling me to go up from my existing 218/224 112LSA .520/.525 lift (1.6RR) cam. I'm debating between a 224/230 and a 230/237 112 or 113 LSA hydraulic roller cam (using Comp retro fits in my older style block), probably around a .550 or so lift w/1.6RRs. What cam would your MR guys recommend, and why?

Chris Etemadi

I would at least get a recommondation on a cam from a reputable company, IE Comp cams, Cam motion, Howards. to atleast get some idea.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Yep, planning to. But by the same token, they're the ones who recommended the really mild 218/224 cam I'm currently running.....

Guest

What are you trying to accomplish with the car? Daily driver? Race car? Some of both?

IIRC, Traxion was running something in the 240 range on a 350 with a miniram, but I dont know how liveable it was on the street. I have a 232/238 in a 350 and its not too bad, IMHO of course. There's much to be said though for picking a smaller cam, generally you pick one on the wild side you think you'd like... and then take a step down. Thats what that 218/224 was with your old combo, a step down. Nothing wrong with that, just how it works out most of the time. Even DD dyno, which is accurate enough, doesnt show much change from one range of cam to the next but in reality it could make a difference from tolerable to annoying. I'm a little weird though, I almost always do that and then wish I had gotten the next size up instead lol. Next time, I'm just gonna go nuts and see what happens next.

Putting on the AFR's out of the box?

Schultzy89GTA

Vern,
I went with a 230/238 @ .050 with .565/.565 lift with 1.6 rocker ratio. This is on a 114 LSA. This was recommended by the cam designer for my combo. What I wanted was a strong driver with good idle but some bawlz when you got on it and the occasional shot of juice. The 114LSA provides plenty of vacuum and the nitrous likes the wide exhaust duration.

This cam idles at 750. If you want a rumpity rump lopey idle it will dissapoint. Don't get me wrong, it sounds good but it is not radical. I can drive the car nice and mellow with no problem. Bring her up in the mid-range rpms and she really takes off.

I am running AFR 195 street heads (not the awesome new ones that you have!). This combo dynoed at 374hp/386ft lbs at the rear wheels (over 350ft lbs from 2500-5500rpm). I later found out that I had a valve spring bind issue. My track MPH says that I picked up about 20-30 more horsepower after correcting that problem.

All in all, very streetable mild combo but will get my fat 3,850lb car (with me) up and running real quick.

I can't speak from experience on your other choices there but I think that you will be dissapointed if you go smaller than the 230*. One guys input/experience FWIW.

Cheers!

-Schultzy

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply!

Yep, car is a daily driver and "play toy" all at the same time. Will see some occasional strip, but more likely just showing off on the streets and vacant parking lots/abandoned roadways. So some of both is definitely the "right answer". LOL

And I am planning to use them straight out of the box. Since they already flow 274/207 @ .500 lift, I doubt much more would be that beneficial on the street.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the opinions, Schultzy, I really appreciate it! So now I've got one vote here for each. Figures. But since this is for a 383, which will typically from my inderstanding essentially be a "step down" cam wise to start with, I'm tending towards the 230/238/114 direction. Still wanting other opinions and why, though.

I haven't weighed my car, probably should. I know I will help tip the scales to the heavier side of that, plus the 9" will too. I'll do some playing with DD2K with some different cam specs as well. In my spare time, of course, what ever the H3LL that is...

If I got it up to 400+ RWHP and didn't drop the TQ below 425-450 I'd be extremely happy!!!

Schultzy89GTA

hehe no doubt!

Good luck. I am sure you will end up with an awesome combo.

-Schultzy

vernw

iTrader: (2)

LOL Yep!!!

I sure hope so.....

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

TPIS advertises their world-beater combos with 230° - 236° cams. So I'd be looking in that range at the very lowest.

The intake itself though, if you can do the chip (or aftermarket ECM) programming, will support cams well up into the 250° - 260° range, in terms of raw RPM range capability. So this is really more of an ECM question than a MR question, as such.

What ECM are you going to be running? (please don't say "stock"... not even "with a Herkimer Q. Schnitzelfritz chip".... )

vernw

iTrader: (2)

730 running S_AUJP v4 (still in beta testing, but about ready for release i believe). But the box is stock, just missing the cover plate so my Ostrich cable can get to the memcal adapter....

Guest

Sounds ripe for a 230+ cam to me.

One of these days, I am going to have to get a decent recording of the cam I have because from that I think its pretty easy to tell where it falls. Most people can tell by the lope how they'd feel about the engine on their car. I know Trax had a sound clip up of his at one point and I liked it

Before I even tuned the car through a blowmaster muffler... or resonance box as I liked to call it
http://home.earthlink.net/~chris.foster/GPrev1.wav

^^^ Comp XFI 280 in a 350 that Mkos is getting.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Vern.. Congrats on the purchase. I am also going with a new cam and comp recommended the new XFI cam 232/236 576/570 113 LSA Also if your still up in the air email Lloyd Elliot for his suggs. As for ecm, try to move over to the 411 LS motor ecm. I converted both my cars and I love every minute of it. The formy started right up on a 2500 HD tune and drove like a brand new car. I see people burning chips now and its like eak. I'll never go back to that stuff now. EFILive is where its at.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies and sound clip, guys. Wish I could hear that same cam in a 383 to see the difference. Definitely some lope to that one in a 350....

What's the 411 ECM you're talking about? Do you mean an LSx ECM? I've kinda wondered about going SEFI with an LTx ECM and harness, but never considered the LSx ECMs. Can you tell me more about this?

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

Look for the OBDII Post in the TPI boards on like the 3rd page. Its a 3 page link.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Im currently running a TPIS ZZ409 cam and wish I went bigger. My buddy Matt87GTA on these boards, is running a ZZX cam with his MR, 383, Brodix track 1's and put down 447 rwhp, with longtubes and a Mufflex 4".

When I get back home from Iraq, Im planning on getting AFR 210 Eliminator Competitions and running the ZZX cam (240/240 @ .050) with a Hydra rev. Hoping to better Matt's 447 rwhp with the better flowing AFR 210's.

brutalform

Hey Vern, that car should really rock and roll! You have all the tuning capabilities at your fingertips. I went with a lazy cam, and a wide LSA on my cam first time around, because I never thought I would be burning my own eproms. Now that I am in the process of my intake swap, I do have a new SR cam picked out. This one specs at 248/254 @ .050, on a narrower 112* LSA. In all honesty though, I want to do the intake first, and see how it performs with the current SR cam. I do not want to change a bunch of things all at once. With the new converted intake, and my billet three piece timing cover, cam changes will be WAY easier now, so I figured to let the cam wait a bit.

So you did go with the AFRS, huh? I think the first time you hit the throttle, you will be all smiles.

Are you still running the 4.11s in the rear?

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Those sound like some mean machines! I don't want to go quite that wild though for every day driving and a couple of road trips a year. The ZZX (239/239 per tpis.com) is a bit more than I think I want to go. Appreciate the info though. Seems like everyone is now saying to go into the 230's for sure. My numbers won't be quite as high as yours since I'm using SLP shorties with dual cats and a meeker cam. Regardless, stay safe over there, Randy!

Yep, Tom, still the 4.11 or 4.10 Ford 9 inch. Considering a drop to 3.70's though. And the AFR's are on order and supposedly will be in my hands by mid-month. We'll see, I know those things can get delayed a little bit at times.

And I hope you're right about my expression when me foot gets heavy. LOL

I don't quite know how to relate the solid roller specs over to an equivalent HR, if there even is a conversion. I may have to think about the 2 or 3 piece timing cover myself, just in case LOL. I've been debating on whether I should do the heads and MR w/o the cam just so I don't change too much at once either. Then again, since it will have to be totally re-tuned anyway... Plus I guess I'm a lazy sort, I don't want to have to remove the MR once I put it on if I can avoid it.

That new intake of yours with that 1200 or 1300CFM 4 barrel TB ought to be a killer once you put it on. Of course, your car is a killer with the current SR, too. That was one of the main reasons I questioned pulling off my SR - your car's performance with one. But I think the AFR's and MR are a good move, especially with a better cam.

From what I read here and elsewhere, as well as what I've been told, I'm thinking the XFI280 like cam is going to be the one I go with. Just got to decide the LSA for it. Hopefully the small base circle I need to use won't hurt it's result. I'm still undecided on the Hydra Rev as to install it or not. Decisions, decisions!!!!

Grim Reaper

With a Miniram and those heads, your engine can pull some serious RPMs. Large duration Hydraulic Rollers are murder on the valve train and you start to encounter valve float where the cam is just starting to sing.

This is the problem my buddy with a VERY SIMILAR setup to what you are planning. I finally convinced him to dump the hydraulic roller setup and go solid roller. We discussed the amount of miles he's driving and how he likes to tinker anyway, so the valve adjustments weren't a real issue. In fact, he only does two a year, and really only needs to do one.

He finally went with a solid roller similar to what Tom/Brutalform is installing, except he went with a 110* LSA. He now wishes he had gone with a narrower LSA like I also recommended.

He will tell you that he wishes he had gone solid roller right from the start. Now he has a valve train that can match the revs of his 383 Miniram/AFR 195 Competition Ported. There is something sweet when you hear a SBC pull past 7,000 rpm.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

WOW, never seriously considered a solid roller for my daily driver before. Does the fact that I use a small base circle cam make any difference?

I'm also converting over to retro fit lifters instead of the little '95 V6 lifters (with spider plate) the engine builder put in the motor before I bought it, what's that do to the SRL idea? Anything?

How loud are SRL's compared to HR's? First thing I wonder about is the knock sensor and if the solids will drive it nuts like a gear drive would. I don't mind the adjusting idea a couple of times a year if it makes a good reliable setup.

I also wonder if my bottom end would handle the higher rev-ing, 7K sounds like a lot. My pistons are flat top Speed Pro hypers with valve reliefs and anti-friction coating, the rods are 5.7 PMs, block is a .040 over 010 casting hi nickel content with 4 bolt mains, Speed Pro chrome moly rings, Summit double roller timing chain, 2 piece RMS external balance cast steel crank (unknown brand), etc. Sounds good, but is that strong enough for that kind of thing?

Plus I'd like to be able to throw a 100-150 shot at it every now and then (4 or 5 times a year maybe), though I guess with enough motor that wouldn't be necessary.

brutalform

[QUOTE=vernw;3175835]WOW, never seriously considered a solid roller for my daily driver before. Does the fact that I use a small base circle cam make any difference?

Not really. Why are you using a base cut cam? What kind of rods do you use? I use a .900 base cut, billet cam because of my Eagle H beam rods, and the 4 inch stroke crank. On cylinders #2, and #7, there is a contact problem with a regular base cam. But, if you do need the smaller base, you will not run into problems until you get into very aggressive lobe profiles.

I agree with Glenn. Having a SR on the street is no big deal,(for me anyway), as I love tuning, and playing with my car. A little lash adjustment once a year,(if you only do summer driving, as I do) is no big deal. We all love playing with our cars, or we would not be posting on here. I would fill up my car and leave the state on any given day.

The noise is not really not a problem. Some cams call for a .016 lash, while others call for adjustments as narrow as.010!! I have my K/S capped in the eprom, and just read the spark plugs, so its really not an issue.

You have all the other ingredients for a higher RPM engine, so I would go for the SR cam. The cost of new lifters will set you back, but, thats somthing you can not avoid, if you choose the SR route.

If the periodic adjustments are not for you, then the HR is it. Just does not make sense, IMO, with the other hardware you have, not to go SR.

brutalform

Don't feel bad, Vern. My ECM has been on the floor for two years now, without a cover.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

OK, SR's have my attention. What would you guys recommend in a cam if I go that route? How much worse would emissions testing be with a SR, and what SR's should I get (remember - retro fit). Any chance anyone has lengths of the SR lifters?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Just as a reference Vern, I'm running the 224/230 112 HR and its not real quiet either. Adjusted many times and it is noticable to me.
Has a nice rumble at idle but would be a bit small IMO for the bigger cubes you have. Posted a couple videos of it running a few weeks back so you could finally hear it. Its in this post in case you missed it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...th-ram-vs.html

I was initially concerned about losing some bottom end torque with the HSR and the cam all at once but it hasn't bothered me if I am losing a bit.
By no means an expert on it but I'm thinking with a little bigger than the 230 with that setup, you won't need the n20 (Although the smile would surely never leave your face if you did)
Probly just break something then and have to invest more.
Staying with a 112 will help if you ever did decide to give it a shot.
H3ll, now you guys have me thinking of going SR now (and bigger)!
Good luck with it, sounds like it will be a killer.
----------
They have covers ???

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, they have covers. I've got one. Somewhere. I think....

I've even gone one step further in that area...

I built a "box" of sorts, 5/8ths plywood top with 1x3's on the two ends so they hold the "top" up a couple of inches. "Installed", it sets on the two end pieces kind of like the attached drawing.

It sits under the carpet up against the firewall on the passenger side. With the ECM underneath it and the harness and wiring going in the upper and lower "sides" that are without boards. That way a passenger can sit in the car, and if they stretch their legs out towards the front their feet are on the box, not the ECM.

Built that about a year ago. Now you can't even tell it's there unless you notice the slightly shorter leg room. And my most frequent passenger, my wife, has really short legs (she's about 5'4" tall with a regular sized torso - and looks better than that sounds LOL)

Thanks for the input as well, John. I'll go check out that thread. I'm still torn a little between a 230/237 or so HR cam and an as yet unknown SR cam, waiting on suggestions of that right now.......

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

I was also thinking of going to a solid, but after doing some searches, it was my understanding that the soild lifters dont last that long. Some were saying 10K and then they break! I dont know if thats true or not, but that was the only reason I decided not to go SR. Now, if thats not the case, I would be very interested in going to a SR! What would be a good soild lifter to get?

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Awesome vids, John. My idle is no where near that good sounding with a 218/224/112 cam right now! My idle is lower too (750 or so). If the saying a 383 "steps a cam down a size compared to a 350" is anywhere near correct, then the 230/237/112 cam in my 383 ought to be close to what you're seeing in your 355.

I'm still waiting to hear more about this solid lifter idea though...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I have a Comp XR282R (solid roller) that I plan on matching up with a MiniRam I also have, to go on a 400+ CID engine I also mostly have, some one of these days when I quit being so lazy and I finally get my rear off the Internet and do some REAL work.... But I think one step bigger than that might be better.

Remember, duration is measured AT THE LOBE. With a solid cam, however much of the duration is consumed while the lash is being taken up; so from just purely a duration standpoint, a solid cam with a given duration spec will "act" "smaller" than a hyd with the same spec. However it may make more power, because the ramps on a solid are almost always steeper than those on a hyd.

Solid rollers are a problem on the street. The problem is, not enough oil gets to their axles, especially at idle and real low RPMs. They fry during extended low RPM operation. Probably the best ones are the Isky Red Zones, which have pressurized oil fed to the axles; or the Crower ones with the HIPPO option. All the others, as far as I know, only dribble oil onto the outside of the roller, which since it's spinning throws the oil off and noe enough gets into the axle. Once the engine speeds pick up though, there's usually enough of an oil mist whipped up inside there, to keep them from running dry.

I'm not a "sound" kind of guy when picking cams. I get a cam that runs right, and then from there, it just sounds however it sounds. On the other hand, if my motor sounds like it's pushing my car out in front of yours, then in my book, it sounds better; regardless of some video.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

I totally agree with the sound comment, fer sure!

The low idle operation of the solids (assuming your info is current) would kill my interest in them. Daily driving (traffic, hopefully low RPM highway cruise, etc.) pretty much requires a low RPM capability w/o frying the lifters. So unless someone else chimes in to the contrary, it may have to be hydraulics. I'm not sure there is a solid in the retro fit version anyway. Haven't been able to find one anyway.....

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Oh, but of course....

That's what all the rest of us have been using for all those decades that we've been building roller motors, before the factory porked the pooch with their "special" design.

http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page24.pdf

Guest

I only put the sound up there as an idea of what the lope is going to be like. IMO its a pretty good way to tell what the car will idle and feel like and if you want to deal with that temperment or not. Some people dont. I'd dont mind some shakin but moving in 3 foot increments against brake pedal pressure at idle isnt my idea of a good time Funny to watch though.

The one I posted was before tuning the car, its a little more stable now but not a whole lot. Found a vid last night but downloading to the PC and uploading to my nonexistant webspace is presenting a problem.

CE eh? So did you do an analysis on the ECM box? Will it only withstand the force of the wife's feet or someone bigger? Did you provide a proper number of nails for any shear force that may occur? lol. Ok back to labeling street cross sections...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Go ahead madmax, admit it!! You LOVE that!!!!!

vernw

iTrader: (2)

You funny boy, Maxie!

Yeah, did an complete stress analysis on the cantilever sides, etc. Forced me to use screws instead of nails to hold it together

And I have no intention of going back to labeling street cross sections, or running the transit, tape, level, or rod to do any of them either. Too old fer dat sheeeetz any mo.

Now, back to a more serious note....

Looked at the Isky page, and I may be stoopit, but I don't see any reference to retro fit lifters in there. Don't the oil hole still have to line up even with the solids?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's all that's there!!! Nothing but link-bar lifters. Note the little rivet-looking thing on that pic of a lifter body where the link bar hooks up.

Yes the oil hole will line up.

They look rather like this in real life.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

See, I told you I might be stoooooopit!!!

Thanks for the info and clarification. Now the only concern I have is the remarks about low RPMs tearing up solids quickly....

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It's largely dependent on spring pressure....

Too little spring pressure, EVERYTHING tears up at high RPMs.

Too much spring pressure and not enough oil, lifter axles tear up at low RPMs.

The Red Zones, with the pressurized oiling to the axle rollers, solve the low RPM problems.

With typical "mild" SR spring pressures (low 200s seat, 500-600 open) the RZ lifters should last just fine. Nothing is "bulletproof"; but they should be reasonably close.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

So whats the goal for the car again?

I ran a 224/230 cam for years, made by SLP the old 51010 which was on 112 lsa. That cam gave a nice crisp idle, pulled to 5800rpm, was tame as can be, worked great n/a, even was just peachy with the blower. Ran that cam with comp lifters and 120lbs springs, with TPI, + singleplane efi.

I'm currently running a miniram with a cc-306 cam. (230/244, .510/.540, 112lsa 110ctr). It idles around 800rpm, a little choppy. I'll never run closed loop again. It's good with my 3k stall converter. I imagine with a stick setup it would be even better. It should make power till about 6400rpm I think.

Now the reason I asked you what your gal for the car was, because I'm trying to understand how high you really need to spin the motor.

Say you ran a cam like mine, and shifted at 6400 we're talking 133-135mph trap speeds on 26" slicks with 3.70 gear your considering, and in your 1:1 gear.

A 28" slick will put you around 144mph at 6400rpm.

Now i know some guys that run a 28" slick, 4.56 rear end, and shift at 7500 rpm and trap around 137-138mph. Now thats really impressive, but do we need to be spinning the motor that fast?

Personally, I'm going with a 3.45 rear, 6000 or so rpm shift, which will probably make the car cross the line at about 5400rpm n/a at like 120mph, and around 134mph with nitrous at 6k. (26" tire)

I built the bottom end to handle about a 250shot and still cry for more, so i'm not too worried.

-- Joe

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I'm just running 350 CI, so with that same line of thinking about how the bigger cubes will tame it down I figured the same. Like Anethes stated, the cam is pretty tame but pulls good to 6000. My idle is 800 for the most part. Gets shaky below 750 so I keep it a little high for smoothness. I think its mostly because of converter loading at idle only having a 2000-2200 stall. With the stick you could go lower and stay smoother I would imagine.
So your getting the range narrowed pretty good.
Just need to decide if you like the 230/237 or the 230/244 types.
Run some DD numbers and see where it gets you.

brutalform

Comp claims to have the low RPM, driving in traffic, lifter failures taken care of. I was on the phone about three weeks ago with Comp, and they mentioned the SR lifter problem, when I told them mine were about three years old. Since then, they had improved the SR lifter line. They suggested that with my new cam, I install their new Endure X SR lifters. Improved oiling for lower RPM use. Here is a link I had found Vern, in case you want to check them out.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...gory_Code=ENDX

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I had a comp HR lifter go bad after 5 years of use. I called comp and believe it or not, they replaced it free of charge. The replacement was a little different though. I'm not sure if comp actually makes their own lifters, or what. I noticed a style change from the ones I was buying around '99-2000, to the ones I bought in 2004.

-- Joe

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the link and the info, guys. The solids sure are pricey, huh? But then again, what isn't in this game?

I just realized something: The AFR Eliminators come with springs set up for a .600 lift hydraulic roller. Seat pressure was something like 120 or 130 pounds, I believe. Do SLs require different springs? And what about a Rev Kit? Is that required too?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Use the spring specs that the cam recommends. Don't stray from it. If the cam wants 120lbs seat and 380 open (just examples) than go with what they say exactly. Usually, comp will recommend a spring installed at 1.800" which makes it easy. All you need is the springs and either shims or offset keepers to get your install height and the job is done.

I'm sure you know theres a lot of variables into what your doing. power band,
DCR, gears, stall speed if auto, piston to valve clearance (it ain't about lift, its about duration), etc.

-- Joe

brutalform

Yea, thats what I thought too. My solid roller lifters are only like two, or three years old, and the tech guy said it would be wise to replace them, to avoid a future failure. Sales pitch? Maybe. I feel that it would be okay to use my lifters on a new cam, and if somthing should fail, then I can kick myself in the butt.

BTW, Vern, since I was going to buy a Comp cam, to replace my current Comp cam, they were willing to cut me a break on the lifters, if I did choose to replace them as well.
----------
Joe, were you lucky enough to only have the lifter go bad? You did not have any additional damage, I take it? You might have bought the Endure X lifter as the replacement. Knowing my luck, I'd take out half the engine in the process.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that would be my luck too, Tom.

Back to the valve springs. This is starting to get a little confusing, but I'm still hanging in there....

Valve spring weight/pressure is dependent on the cam, lifter used (due to weight and style, right?) and the weight of the valve, too? AFR puts 130# on seat springs in the new 195 Eliminators, partially due to the lighter weight 8mm valves. Does that change the cam spring weight recommendations? I'd really hate to have to change valves srings on the new heads. I reason I went with them was the new flows, valves, 600 lift springs, etc., I don't want to have to tear them down before I even install them.... <sigh> ..... but I guess I can if I need to.

So, if I go a SL setup, what kind of cam would be worth considering? Wish I knew someone local with a solid lifter, I'm a little concerned about if they're noisier or not in real life. I am planning to run closed loop and the KS, at least for now. That's part of the daily driver approach I've been trying to take to most stuff......

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

Based on my experience with several cams on my 383 MR motor, I highly recommend single pattern cam. Depending on the size of the cam, a split duration cam is going to put your peak HP at 6500 or above. You will then have problems with valve float and valve springs.

For your application, I recommend a Comp custom ground
XE HR 236/236, .555/.555 lift on a 112 lsa ground 3 degrees advance. You will be able to maintain good driveability and should make at least 475 horse at the flywheel.

The AFR heads have such a good intake/exhaust ratio that they do not need a longer exhaust duration.

At present, I am running a Comp XE Solid roller 242/242 with .603 lift on a 112 lsa and the car is an absolute animal.

Grim Reaper

Vern, a few questions back you asked about springs & rev kit. As the others mentioned, use what the cam company recommends.

As for rev kits, you don't need them with SR. Rev kits are for HR because of their weight. Do consider a stud girdle though. If you plan to make 7,000+ rpm music, you need a stable valve train.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies and info on rev kits. The one contradiction to that is the Comp catalog and the Isky link above, they show rev kits to use with these lifters. So they're not required, I know that, but they are still available. Of course, some folks will buy anything and everything, so that could be why. (Think "Tornado" LOL)

I'll call Comp Monday and see what they say about springs, etc. with the 280XFI and a couple of other ones. i'm hoping the AFR springs on the Eliminators match up, but I know its 50-50 on that. Seems like their stock springs should still be in the ballpark though, doesn't it? I'm breaking new ground for me here.....

I'm thinking 7000RPM may be more than I want to count on. Something more in the 6000-6200RPM just feels more "comfortable" to me. Does that make any sense at all?

Grim Reaper

If you are looking at a solid roller of 240+ duration @ .050 with a Miniram and AFR 195s, it will be making peak power somewhere between 6,800 - 7,000 rpm. That's the setup my buddy has (Miniram, 383, AFR 195s Competition Ported with 2.05/1.60) and that is where his peak power is, and it still pulls hard to 7,200 (where we've set the rev limiter). His tranny shift points are set at 6,800.

I believe he tossed out the AFR springs and went with Comp Cams' though. It's been a few years since he did all this, so I am now a bit fuzzy in all the details.

BTW, he's never had any issues with oiling on the Solid Rollers. We purposely set the idle a little high (900 rpm) and he lives in a rural area. He doesn't drive it daily in city rush hour traffic. Also, he has a 3600 rpm stall and the convertor doesn't lock up until he's doing at least 60 mph (highway speed).

vernw

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the comparison and info Glenn. That does sound liek a really close setup to what I should have if I go that route. Any idea what his compression is? Right now my static is 10.5 and if I remember right, the dynamic is about 9. How solid a lower end did he have to build to handle a 7200 red line? That's the source of my being a little nervous on the solids - the really high power band (over 6500)

Grim Reaper

I believe his static compression is around the 10.5 mark as well, maybe a tad higher. Definitely not 11:1 or higher.

Believe it or not, his engine behaves very mild mannered at the low end. He has a TON of low end power too due to the 110* LSA. When he opens up his car, it has the acceleration that feels more like a jet taking off. It just keeps pulling harder & harder and gets faster & faster. Similar to a big bore multi-cylinder motorcycle like a V-Max. No flatspots, no lag. Of course, the 3600* rpm stall is a key component of that.

When he originally built the engine, he started with a ZZ3 block and he did have his bottom end balanced & blueprinted for a high top end.

If you are concerned about the top end, just shift a little sooner - it will be all good.