In all honesty, Ive never felt safe driving a carbeurated car, or at least Ive never had good experience with them. Either way, I want fuel injection for my 383, be it for dependability or tuning capability (I know you can do the same to carbeurators, but its not as easy as using a laptop). That being said, Ive been pondering the idea of taking off my intake and Holley 800 and piece by piece buying a HSR. Could I still make decent numbers with the HSR while keeping my long block the same (specs in sig)?

 

i tihnk you should be good....i believe there is another member running that cam and put down 320/355 on a mustang dyno...and those read lower than a dyno jet

 

i dont see why you shouldnt run just as good as long as it is tuned.... thats the big thing. 110 lsa isnt generally a great choice for EFI tuning but it has and can be done just takes more time to perfect the tune.

HSR flows pretty good so it should match a carbed manifolds performance

 

Is it true that manual cars put down almost all flywheel hp, as compared to auto cars putting down like 70% or so? Like let's say my 383 as of now puts out 400 fwhp, is it possible for me to get 390rwhp?

 

manuals do tend to put down more power than autos just because of how the power is transfered thru the trans. it takes more "power" to turn auto transmission gears/clutches/bands etc than manual transmissions

typical figures are 15% loss with manuals and 20-25% with autos but some will argue it doesnt work like that

 

How much overlap does that came have? I ran a CC306, and it was a short nightmare to tune, but I finally got it right. (in open loop).

-- Joe

 

Im not sure how to figure out overlap, but the figures are as follows:
230/236@ .050", .490"/.490" 110LSA

Advertise dur. was somewhere around 274

 

Overlap is the same as my cc306 was.. You'll have fun tuning it.

I think you'll get it eventually.

-- Joe

 

it will like abit more LSA to keep overlap down for tuning purposes