OK I have been struggling with doing an LSx swap into my car but then I see the results people are getting and have regained some confidence with the SBC.

Here are my specs and I haven't selected a cam yet but it looks like I should be getting one similiar to the one here.

TPIS MiniRam
Dart Pro 1 Heads 200cc (was going to go with AFR 195s but got a screamin deal).
Hawks Stainless Works 1 3/4 headers
3600 Vigilante Stall Converter

What cam should I put in? I need to buy some 1.6 RRs too...which RRs are recommended?

I also have new LS7 (which are actually just the updated LSx lifters and look near identical to the LS6 lifters when I compare the two). Are these a drop in replacement...do I need to worry about pushrod length because of the lifter change or can I use the stock pushrods with these lifters and 1.6 RRs.

It is all related to the OP's topic but I can start a new thread if you like.
Thanks

 

On stock bottom end car? I'd run something along the lines of Matt's cam. If you have confidence in the bottom end, and would turn it over 6200 rpm, then yeah I am sure something like AI's 226/234 type cam would work well or even a 230 type cam. LT1 guys do 230/234's and similar on stock bottom ends turning 6500 rpm. Do make good power.

Those bigger cams will compliment the 3600 stall abit better

I read on ls1 tech awhile back that the LS7 lifters had a deeper pushrod cup than regular Gm lifters. Required a bit longer pushrod. Its best to mock it up and check length. Just mark the top of the valve stem with magic marker, then install lifter/stock pushrod and rocker and rotate it over a few times. Look at the pattern on the valve stem, if its in the middle and fairly narrow, meaning the tip is not rolling all over the top of the valve, then your good to use stock pushrod length

Also depends on cam basecircle, not everyone grinds the same base circle. I use a 7.35" pushrod for a zero deck motor, LS7 lifter, and a 1" base circle cam. 0.041 gasket

 

Yeah it is a stock bottom end with the odometer just turning over 50K actual miles...it still has the stock tires. They are all highway commute miles with no track time...I am thinking the block should be in really good shape.

Do you think I should go with less a stall...maybe a 3200? I want my shifting to be at 6200...with peak about 6K rpms...but maybe with the heads and miniram it would be more like 6500 redline...not sure.

I know that if I get a cam with a 110 or 112 lsa that should help shift he peak power down a bit more then a 114.

I am all ears...I haven't purchased the stall yet...but am pretty committed to the Miniram, Dart Pro 1 Head, 1 3/4" LTs, 1.6 RRs....I want to base my performance around these parts. So the cam and stall are the next critical choice.

 

I think 3200 would be better suited for those intended shift points. I ran 3600 on my 383 with 6250 rpm peak but it held that power to 6500 and i'd shift between 6500-6800. Peak torque was dead flat between 4000-4500 rpm and not much drop before or after that for a good 1000 rpm so 3200-4000 would have been good enough, i ran 3600.

Rest of the motor is good stuff. Cam should be somewhere in the 224-228 range I would think for a peak near 6000. Like GTAMatt here, that AI cam is a nice cam, but it may like 6500 rpm shifts. Stock block most feel comfortable to 6200. I myself was only going to turn 6200 when i was gonna do AFR's/Cam on stock L98 shortblock at 155K miles haha.
As far as LSA, thats somewhat dependant on your desired idle quality in this case. For ease of tuning, 112 would be ok. Better the tuner, more it can tolerate a tighter LSA. Tighter LSA generally is said to make more torque over the rpm range, but overall engine combination from heads/intake/compression and the goals for power delivery will ultimately determine LSA and duration.

I think the AI 226/234 cam that Matt has in this thread is a great cam for setups like these. Its made for LT1's with either stock heads or ported heads..works great with both. AI does some great stuff with LT1's and a miniram small block is no different.

Lingenfelter 219 cam is an old but tried and true cam. Just saw a guy on corvette forum make 422whp on stock bottom end LT1 with AFR 195 heads. Incredible for that cam. Believe it peaked at 6300 rpm tho. You can always short shift but you'll be leaving alittle on the table thats for sure

Anything like those will work well in that car

 

I know the guys is catching some flack from others for his numbers...but I can tell you I have seen 100's of C5s and C6s (both Z and regular) on a dyno...helped run the dyno first year A&A had a big bash. He said a stock C6 Z was on the dyno right before and laid down 450 rwhp...that is really close within 5 rwhp of the lowest C6 Z I have seen about 10 from the highest. So he is making damn good power and I'm not sure what even his CR is??

For some reason I just like a little more cam then the LPE cam....the LPE LSx cam was really popular too.

I am thinking I like the 224/226 .550ish list on a 112lsa. But if that is going to push it into shifting above 6300rpms I probably don't want it. I will start another thread when I gather the parts and start.

What would happen if I left the stock stall converter in it with those mods?

 

I'm looking to upgrade the cam in our 88 GTA while installing a Miniram this winter. The engine was rebuilt a year ago with forged internals and 4 bolt mains for stock compression. Then the heads were replaced with AFR 180's milled to 64cc to retain stock compression and 1.5 full roller rockers were installed. It is also running emissions legal headers, all accessories, a 700R4 with 2500 stall, and the stock 9 bolt rear with 3.27 gears.

Comps CamQuest software is recommending a 218/224 at 110 LSA (XR270HR) cam as their first choice. After reading this thread, I'm leaning toward going with their 224/230 at 112 (XR276HR) instead.

For those running the intake on a street car, what are my tradeoffs on this? I'd like to stay with an off the shelf cam instead of a custom grind and the car is mostly a street car with only 5 or 6 passes at the track each year.

If it makes a difference in the cam decision, nitrous may get installed later for track use only once we get the engine dialed in without it.

 

Stock compression will favor the smaller cam but the difference between those two is kinda marginal. 224 will have abit more top end but the 218 will have more lower and midrange power. The 218 has only a few degrees less overlap so I think the two are comparable if the lift is similar. I think the two cars will run comparible. 218 also will favor the smaller 180cc runner on those heads. 224 will like 195's. Either way i dont think you'll see much more than 10whp difference between the two.

As far as nitrous, spray as much as you want up to 200 shot on either of those cams.